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  1. #1
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    Oct 2008
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    On another tangent.
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    Modify Your Own Fucking Screws

    One of the biggest time and life force sucking issues (with little ROI) is dealing with questions about proper screw lengths and heads for the unlimited possibilities relative to all of the different binding types, mounts, shims, etc. Couple this with many who do not have much of a hands on background and expect everything to be cheap, easy and straight forward.

    So post up your methods on how to modify screws for various situations.

    A couple basic 'tenets':
    1) Screws are cheap. Get more than you think you'll need at the moment.
    2) In a lot of cases, screws can be shortened and head diameters reduced.
    3) Being able to modify screws can save tons of time and effort searching for the perfect screw.
    4) Measuring bindings for screws is easy to do!
    5) It is impossible to always be stocked with every screw. Often, some sizes are simply not available.
    6) If an alpine screw needed cannot be found. Binding Freedom inserts open up unlimited options for using M5 machine screws.
    7) M5 machine screws are extremely common and available in a vast array of lengths, head types and driver type. Pozi drive M5 machine screws are unique to Binding Freedom inserts.
    Last edited by Alpinord; 03-04-2016 at 10:05 PM.
    Best regards, Terry
    (Direct Contact is best vs PMs)

    SlideWright.com
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  2. #2
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    Oct 2008
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    On another tangent.
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    Binding Screw Cutting

    Regarding screw cutting, here is an initial prototype of a screw cutting 'jig' that anyone can build to shorten screw lengths. (Please offer up any ideas on improving the concept.)


    • Binding Freedom inserts were ground down to 6mm to 7mm and and tapped to remove burr.
    • (Finding M5 press-in or threaded inserts would be easier and less time consuming).
    • Using brass tap-ins for alpine screws is next.
    • Drill, tap and install the inserts into hardwood, metal, or other durable material.
    • Cut a saw kerf at a known dimension, ie 8mm
    • Install screws and measure from kerf to measure point on screw
    • Cut with hack saw
    • After cutting a screw, typically there is a burr at the end. Leaving a nut on a screw, run it through an insert or a die, can clean it up quickly. Couple that with a little stone work on the tips.


    1st run to test idea. When I get time to redo this with more care and better materials, this will change







    Last edited by Alpinord; 03-04-2016 at 01:38 PM.
    Best regards, Terry
    (Direct Contact is best vs PMs)

    SlideWright.com
    Ski, Snowboard & Tools, Wax and Wares
    Repair, Waxing, Tuning, Mounting Tips & more
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  3. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
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    On another tangent.
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    Screw head modifications (reserved)
    Best regards, Terry
    (Direct Contact is best vs PMs)

    SlideWright.com
    Ski, Snowboard & Tools, Wax and Wares
    Repair, Waxing, Tuning, Mounting Tips & more
    Add TGR handle to notes & paste 5% TGR Discount code during checkout: 1121TGR

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
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    Fernie and/or Smithers
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    1,488
    Ya it ain't rocket science.
    I put mine in a vice, upside down then hit them with an angle grinder. Round off the end of the threads and they're good to go. Faster than going to the shop to hassle some kid who probably won't be able to find the right screws anyway.
    Do what you like, Like what you do.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    North Vancouver
    Posts
    1,244
    threaded part I am to cut off is clamped in vice close to one edge of vice.

    Caliper length I need against exposed threads and bring hacksaw blade in line with lower point of caliper. Hack away with saw while holding screw head with free hand.

    Dremel with grinding or cutting wheel to clean up hacked portion then a quick wire wheel Dremel.

    i do this with reg binding screws and the M5 hardware for inserts. When I first shortened screws i was a lot more meticulous about it than I am now. You can actually do what appears to be a pretty shoddy job and the screw, ski and insert do not seem to know otherwise.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Juneau
    Posts
    1,100
    For head modification, I put an acorn nut on the end of the screw, insert the nut into a drill, clamp a panzer file to my bench, and using the drill, I can grind down the head. Only needed to do that to get a flat head machine screw (for BF inserts) into the fifth hole of Dynafit Vertical toes.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
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    To modify the screw head and length for B&D shims under my D-fit Verticals:

    +


    I guess there are some things a hammer won't fix.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
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    North Vancouver
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    1,244
    dschane, that's a good idea. I always have jsut freehanded the heads since is does not really matter what they look like as long as they fit and enough material there.

    But your way would be just as quick and do a far better job.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Sandy
    Posts
    5,173
    I always put 2 nuts on the screw i want to cut, with an opening for the hacksaw blade adjusted to the length I want to cut to, then cut between the 2 nuts. When you unscrew the nut thats left after you cut it helps remove the burr/helps unfowl the threads.
    When life gives you haters, make haterade.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    NWCT
    Posts
    2,366

    Modify Your Own Fucking Screws

    Some good tips in here - nice thread (see what I did there)!


    Quote Originally Posted by Johnny Sizzler View Post
    You can actually do what appears to be a pretty shoddy job and the screw, ski and insert do not seem to know otherwise.
    Totally agree. In a pinch, I've even used bolt cutters to shorten screws. It's not precise, and threads don't look pretty afterwards, but they work fine. Needing out is fun and all, but we're just talking about sliding downhill on some sticks. It's not rocket surgery.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Posts
    14

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Eburg
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    13,243
    Quote Originally Posted by milotrain View Post
    That tail stock die holder is slick. Gotta make me one of them someday.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
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    Sikskiyou's
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    Need to find or modify some screws into 5.5 x 22mm. Panhead. "Self-tapping" screws - not for inserts.

    Best I can find from Tognar (3 blocks from here) is 28mm, but the upper screw body is not threaded. If I cut 6mm off the screws, there may not be 8mm of thread left for insertion (more like 4 to 6mm).

    Best I can find from SlideWright in a panhead is 18mm. Too short with 4mm of insertion.

    Anyone have a suggestion on where to go next? I guess I could just order the correct screw pack from a dealer, but I only need 4 screws...
    Last edited by donetlynx; 11-09-2020 at 12:41 AM.

  14. #14
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    Feb 2008
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    Sikskiyou's
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    word. i'll just use a lot of it and it should be fine.

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
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    7B Idaho
    Posts
    879
    Can you make some of these work? If so LMK you address I’ll send you what you need.

    Click image for larger version. 

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  16. #16
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
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    Vinyl Valley
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    Quote Originally Posted by Meadow Skipper View Post

    I guess there are some things a hammer won't fix.
    Have you tried using a bigger hammer? Sometimes that works.

  17. #17
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    ^ the perfect answer, four years after.

  18. #18
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
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    Nottingham, UK
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    Quote Originally Posted by donetlynx View Post
    Need to find or modify some screws into 5.5 x 22mm. Panhead. "Self-tapping" screws - not for inserts.

    Best I can find from Tognar (3 blocks from here) is 28mm, but the upper screw body is not threaded. If I cut 6mm off the screws, there may not be 8mm of thread left for insertion (more like 4 to 6mm).

    Best I can find from SlideWright in a panhead is 18mm. Too short with 4mm of insertion.

    Anyone have a suggestion on where to go next? I guess I could just order the correct screw pack from a dealer, but I only need 4 screws...
    I'm pretty sure I'll have some. It's late evening here so I'll check when I'm in my shop tomorrow.

  19. #19
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    Mar 2005
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    Vinyl Valley
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    Quote Originally Posted by Meadow Skipper View Post
    ^ the perfect answer, four years after.
    What!?! Is that too late for you? Did you already smash the shit out of that overpriced motherfucker?

    Better late than never.

  20. #20
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    Jan 2008
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    truckee
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  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by skuff View Post
    What!?! Is that too late for you? Did you already smash the shit out of that overpriced motherfucker?

    Better late than never.
    . Glad you’re still around to catch that.

  22. #22
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    SoCal
    Posts
    6,753
    Most #12 wood screws are 11 tpi, but #12AB is 14 tpi and virtually a perfect match for ski screws.

  23. #23
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    Feb 2008
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    Sikskiyou's
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    Quote Originally Posted by Spyderjon View Post
    I'm pretty sure I'll have some. It's late evening here so I'll check when I'm in my shop tomorrow.
    Much appreciated, but it looks like I might be able to get something that works at the local HW store...

    I was going down this road, but had convinced myself it couldn't be that easy (and that I'd strip them out for sure).

    Quote Originally Posted by 1000-oaks View Post
    Most #12 wood screws are 11 tpi, but #12AB is 14 tpi and virtually a perfect match for ski screws.
    Learning something new today. I'll try not to strip out the #2 Phillips heads. Thanks all for the help.

  24. #24
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Nottingham, UK
    Posts
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    The nearest I've got is Vist 23mm pan head screws so just need a mm taking off them or I've got Salomon 32.5mm pan heads which will need a bigger trim. Got plenty and happy to post a few out to you (foc) if you can't source locally.

    Click image for larger version. 

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