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Thread: All Temp Wax Recomendation
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11-07-2015, 10:05 PM #26
Cunt is wrong about everything. Don't listen.
I just use Toko or SVST bulk. The little ones that look like soap are plenty. Depending on where you live, you may want to get one of the colors for tempurature extremes.
The Toko is maybe faster and maybe less long lasting than the SVST. May just be shitting myself since it's available down the street. Scrapes easy too.
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11-07-2015, 10:09 PM #27Sav
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All Temp Wax Recomendation
CH8 for everyday, CH10 in the spring and for base cleaning. Ch6 for those super icy days. Hydrocarbon wax is so cheap no real reason to only use one.
Don't use fluoro unless you're in the adult mighty mite league and gonna bash some poles. Waste of money and you should really be cleaning it out of your base to keep those pores open.
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11-07-2015, 10:48 PM #28
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11-07-2015, 11:52 PM #29features a sintered base
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I know you're a snowboarder, which almost automatically disqualifies you from anything having to do with wax, plus you're basically retarded in general, but if you think most wax is really fluoro and not just hydrocarbon there really is no hope for you. I'm guessing you've never seriously worked to make a pair of skis fast in your life, so your opinion, such as it is, is worthless.
Not to mention, which should have been the starting point, structure is as important as wax. I've waxed identically skis with different structures (and skis that haven't had a structure put in for a long time) and found huge differences even with the exact same wax job.
Almost forgot, saving scrapings is going full retard.[quote][//quote]
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11-07-2015, 11:54 PM #30features a sintered base
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[quote][//quote]
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11-08-2015, 12:03 AM #31
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11-09-2015, 08:53 PM #32Sav
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11-09-2015, 09:25 PM #33Registered User
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Used to use Hertel hot sauce but it didn't last long or work well in temps below 20 degrees. I use Dominator Zoom now, last longer and has better temp range
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11-09-2015, 11:08 PM #34
This group goes full retard, I ever bet your shit wax is made in china too......hertel is not made in china.
Learn how to prep your fucking shit for the conditions.
www.hertelskiwax.com
Nothing comes close to our Racing Fluorocarbon 739 Skiing & Snowboard Wax (FC 739). IT WORKS BEAUTIFULLY IN ALL SNOW TEMPERATURES AND CONDITIONS. This wax simply WINS EVERYTHING! Fluronated Racing Wax - FC 739 - was the first Fluro wax ever developed in 1986. This All Condition / All Temperature snowboarding wax out performs ski and snowboard wax with colors -- GUARANTEED! Other skiing waxes simply try to match paraffin hardness to temperature and add color for identification. Racing FC 739 skiing wax uses a double micro-encapsulation process of a unique fluorochemical surfactant formulated to reduce surface tension on your ski base. This wax repels snow, water and minimizes friction, which in turn creates the ultimate control.
Racing FC 739 has been used by the United States Ski Team, the United States Freestyle Ski Team and the Canadian Skiing Teams. It has helped our racing customers of all ski and snowboard skill levels improve their times significantly. Hertel Skiing Wax is the only ski and snowboard wax company using the unique Purflurochemical surfactants -- a combination of amazing ingredients that simply win races, put happy smiles on faces, and keep safety at the front. Remember it is an All Temperature ski wax so you won't need to worry about having to match colored waxes to the constantly changing conditions on race day! Buy our Racing FC 739 today -- you will be excited the first time you cruise down the mountain.Terje was right.
"We're all kooks to somebody else." -Shelby Menzel
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11-09-2015, 11:56 PM #35
I've been partial to one ball jay. Universal and specific temp rage for a reasonable price. After tech-ing in a shop for several years i like the sent!
A couple mags with online parts/sell what you/I need to buy!Drink to remember not to forget!
Fourisight Wines
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11-10-2015, 07:34 AM #36features a sintered base
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Again, snowboarders are unable to comment on this, stupid snowboarders doubly so. If you believe that an all-temperature wax exists that is anywhere close to the right wax for different snow/temps then you are truly a moron (we knew this already, in your case). Not to mention your site talks about spray on bullshit which might be effective for one or two turns. You don't know WTF you're talking about--pipe down and let the grown ups speak.
Also, structure. But you wouldn't understand that, either.[quote][//quote]
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11-10-2015, 07:36 AM #37
Hertel has Hot Sauce which is still a Flouro based wax, then they have there more expensive Racing Fluorocarbon 739 which again is flouro and not hydrocarbon based. What does it matter? Hydrocarbon, typically is cheaper and costs less, it also is considered by most to be safer when heated and applied (fumes from flouro wax can be dangerous.) Also as mentioned by many flouro helps in wet high humidity snow, not so much in colder low temperature snow.
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11-10-2015, 09:17 AM #38Sav
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All Temp Wax Recomendation
I also forgot a lot of you guys care so much because of touring effort.
If you're just downhill skiing riding the lift up, and not racing, you shouldn't have any problems at all getting speed with a simple hydrocarbon wax.
And if you do maybe you should be riding something steeper
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11-10-2015, 09:31 AM #39
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11-10-2015, 09:43 AM #40
Generally, the higher the moisture and/or humidity level, the more benefit from hydrophobic fluoros even if it's cold out. Dry and static snow=>hydrocarbon. Snow type also has an affect on glide as does structure. Wetter snows needs aggressive structure to channel water better for glide. You need to brush out the wax from the structure to maximize the benefits.
A durable base wax like Briko-Maplus Race Base Medium or 40:60 S:M Special Reserve, also protects the base better when aggressive snows wear off less durable waxes while providing decent glide over a broad range.
Per Briko-Maplus (race wax chart): <40% humidity=>hydrocarbon, 30-60% humidity=>low fluoro, 60-90%=>high fluoro. Per fluorinated is beneficial accelerant if humidity is > 50%.
Favorite spring combo is aggressive structure, B-M Race Base Medium with LF Orange (Briko-Maplus LP2).
General season down to 15° (snow temperatures): Briko-Maplus Race Base Medium for 3/4 of the conditions and can last up to 6 days or more if soft snow. Bump with BP1 green if colder and BP1 Red or LP2 Purple (more humid) if higher 20's.
Note: I always find it humorous when people who ski 'save money' rationalizing going cheap on wax (i.e. where the skis meet the snow), but have no problem buying multiple pairs of skis, shells, snow cars, travel and make major lifestyle choices to be able to be on and in snow. Penny smart and dollar foolish. Max out your glide = more fun. More durable wax = less time and expense relative to waxing. Also, people generally apply way more wax than needed. Here are some tips on reducing wax usage.Last edited by Alpinord; 11-12-2015 at 01:40 PM.
Best regards, Terry
(Direct Contact is best vs PMs)
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11-10-2015, 11:16 AM #41
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11-10-2015, 11:33 AM #42
I suspect Alpinord knows more about this subject than the rest of us combined. I'll try the Briko-Maplus when I'm done with the two boxes of Swix LF combo packs I got from him at super closeout.
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11-10-2015, 11:37 AM #43
With account login, you should be good. Log out and in to compare prices.
I forgot to mention that the B-M Universal red is comparable to the race base medium in it's temperature range at a better price point for some. It's durability is 1/2 or so of the race base medium and more in line with the lower durability of typical, popular waxes cited above.Best regards, Terry
(Direct Contact is best vs PMs)
SlideWright.com
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Add TGR handle to notes & paste 5% TGR Discount code during checkout: 1121TGR
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11-10-2015, 11:47 AM #44
Maybe only relative to Briko-Maplus waxes. They don't advertise in the US, are major players on the World Cup and Olympics and hold the world speed ski record. They also supply other wax companies, especially per fluorinated as I understand it. They figure if the top dawgs are winning on their waxes, it'll trickle down to us rec skiers.....
I 'found' the Race Base Medium after trying all kinds of combos over time and kept going back to it as a go to option. I have yet to hear of anyone disappointed in it as a 'Durable Universal' and base protector. You can always use other wax over it to hit the day better if you are into dialing it in.
Skate skiing and cat track traversing will help you feel the glide better. If in doubt, try one wax on one ski and another wax on the other and feel how the glides AND turns compare.Best regards, Terry
(Direct Contact is best vs PMs)
SlideWright.com
Ski, Snowboard & Tools, Wax and Wares
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Add TGR handle to notes & paste 5% TGR Discount code during checkout: 1121TGR
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11-10-2015, 12:58 PM #45
To further geek out (since I'm on a roll), humidity fluctuates as the air temperature changes. The snow temperature changes at a far slower amount and rate. Generally, I look at the night time AIR temps to get a sense of what the actual SNOW temps will be the next day or future outing. Here is the current temperature and humidity forecasts for Silverton and Northern San Juans. Telluride and Wolf Creek are similar. Snotel will give actual recorded temps and humidity. Same for CAIC.:
Toko and Briko-Maplus waxes are rated relative to snow temps while Swix is air temperature, IIRC.Best regards, Terry
(Direct Contact is best vs PMs)
SlideWright.com
Ski, Snowboard & Tools, Wax and Wares
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Add TGR handle to notes & paste 5% TGR Discount code during checkout: 1121TGR
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11-10-2015, 05:56 PM #46
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11-10-2015, 09:29 PM #47
Just ordered some of that Briko-Maplus Medium. My seemingly endless supply of Swix Universal finally ran out. I'm usually waxing after three or so days. If this new wax gets me a few more days it should be worth the extra cost.
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11-10-2015, 10:22 PM #48Galibier Designcrafting technology in service of music
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11-11-2015, 06:52 AM #49
Alternatively, wax another set of skis differently and swap out.
Trying two different side edge bevels on inside and outside edges, and then switching feet to ski the same run is also a telling test.
It'd be interesting to see what results you find over time.
Everyone could benefit from micro-managing wax applications. Especially with more costly waxes. Your supply will last a long time if you do. The RBM is a harder wax and hot touching then crayoning will be required. I tend to touch wax to the iron and then rub the iron to the ski. It's quick and easy.
Also, by applying a very thin layer, watch to see how it is absorbed into the base. If it disappears, add a little more or definitely wax again sooner to saturate the bases better. This helps with longevity and base protection.
On new skis, it'll probably take several wax/scrape/brush cycles to 'get them up to speed'. I'll start with applying 40:60 (soft-med) base prep wax, and let them cool 30 minutes or so. Then reheat and cool several more cycles, then scrape and brush and apply the RBM, etc. It's sort of like bench 'hot boxing'.Last edited by Alpinord; 11-14-2015 at 12:24 AM.
Best regards, Terry
(Direct Contact is best vs PMs)
SlideWright.com
Ski, Snowboard & Tools, Wax and Wares
Repair, Waxing, Tuning, Mounting Tips & more
Add TGR handle to notes & paste 5% TGR Discount code during checkout: 1121TGR
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11-11-2015, 07:16 AM #50
Whats the diff between base prep wax and normal race wax?
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