look pivot and bsl adjustment range ?

[TomCrac]

Anyone know if skis that are mounted with Look pivot14's for a 328 bsl would have enough adjustment to accomodate a 320 bsl or would they have to be redrilled.

Thanks.

[DJSapp]

Likely yes. My old P14's didn't need a remount when I went from a 354mm to a 345mm bsl.

[glademaster]

You're close, but looking at a remount. Pivot heels have about +/- 6mm of adjustment. Might be worth a try because you are close, but it's likely you'll need to remount.

[DJSapp]

^^^ What vintage are we talking about? The old old P series had a lot of travel. Hell, the old PX still had a lot of travel as I remember.

[adrenalated]

P series (depending which exact vintage and design we're talking about) and PX series are not Pivots and have way more travel. glademaster is correct - I thought it was more like +/-4mm, but either way, it's not much.

[The Tortoise]

This thread says +/- 7 mm.

http://www.tetongravity.com/forums/s...-Look-Pivot-14

It's really going to depend where the binding is set for your current boots.

[TomCrac]

Thanks for the info.'s

[DJSapp]

Nevermind, I haven't been keeping up. Pivots are not P's or PX's.

[doebedoe]

I believe total adjustment range is right around 7mm to still have correct forward pressure. So +/- 3.5mm from the original BSL mount, not +/- 7mm. I was able to drill for 314mm and get both a 310 and 317 boot to adjust correctly.

[TomCrac]

Well it looks like its gonna be just making it or just outside. Fingers crossed. I'll know soon.

[ScrewYou]

Theres the set of two (or three?) lines on the adjustment arms.. i dont have a pair to look at right now.

At the current mount, is it at the first, second, ( or third ) hash-mark ring from the bottom?

post a pic.

I thought if you were in the middle of the adjustment range, you could go +/- 7mm each way.

[ScrewYou]

Correct forward pressure is when the white piece on the bottom rear of the binding lines up with the hash marks pictured.

The picture posted in not correct forward pressure.. just and idea of what to line up

[TCNROMPER]

Correct forward pressure is when the white piece on the bottom rear of the binding lines up with the hash marks pictured.

The picture posted in not correct forward pressure.. just and idea of what to line up

That's not entirely true. Although that is the idea of the white tab and black hash marks it is often the case that they don't line up even with "correct forward pressure." Depending how maxed out the arms are from the previous mount you might be alright but I highly doubt it. Just remount your heels in a tad and you will be in good shape.

[ScrewYou]

That's not entirely true. Although that is the idea of the white tab and black hash marks it is often the case that they don't line up even with "correct forward pressure." Depending how maxed out the arms are from the previous mount you might be alright but I highly doubt it. Just remount your heels in a tad and you will be in good shape.

Thats just what ive always read/heard..

http://theskimonster.com/blog/posts/...-ski-bindings/

[adrenalated]

That is indeed how Looks says to set the forward pressure. But TCN is also correct that it's not particularly reliable.

Best established practices for setting forward pressure on Pivots:
-ignore indicator
-put boot in binding
-lift dildo up gently by hand
-when dildo snaps into position on it's own after lifting ~50% of the way, forward pressure is correct.

There are three lines on the adjustment arms.

[TomCrac]

Thats just what ive always read/heard..

http://theskimonster.com/blog/posts/...-ski-bindings/

Thanks for the link.

[doebedoe]

Theres the set of two (or three?) lines on the adjustment arms.. i dont have a pair to look at right now.

At the current mount, is it at the first, second, ( or third ) hash-mark ring from the bottom?

post a pic.

I thought if you were in the middle of the adjustment range, you could go +/- 7mm each way.

Not my experience, but I'm a jong. I used the forward pressure method outlined by adrenalated above to adjust forward pressure. Using a home template based mount set to 313-314, the arms were at their most inward hash for a 310 boot, and their outermost hash for a 317 boot.

[prsboogie]

Bump, jong here, how easily or difficult should it be for the heel piece to "pivot" without a boot locked in? I have one that turns easily - say with two fingers pressing on one side, and the other I have to hold loosely with a couple and my thumb to twist. Mounted up my own f%$king skis and want to make sure I don't kill myself on my first trip out this season, and these are my first set of turntable style bindings.

Thanks

BTW they are Pivot 14s (last seasons)

[::: :::]

They rotate pretty easy without a boot. It kinda clicks into the rearward position.

[prsboogie]

Thanks, I was hoping that was the case. With the difference in the two I wasn't sure though

[Knut]

That is indeed how Looks says to set the forward pressure. But TCN is also correct that it's not particularly reliable.

Best established practices for setting forward pressure on Pivots:
-ignore indicator
-put boot in binding
-lift dildo up gently by hand
-when dildo snaps into position on it's own after lifting ~50% of the way, forward pressure is correct.

There are three lines on the adjustment arms.

If you adjust like this, then chances are that your boot heel is resting against the arms that hold the dildo or in the ears where the arms are attached to the base plate.
That generally happens when the arms are at least 1/2 to 2/3 extended.

While the method certainly works for most people in the field, you do NOT adjust forward pressure correctly like that, as your boot is basically just squeezed in between front and rear mount plate. And all you do by adjusting until the dildo snaps is bringing the dildo close enough to your heel to properly engage, while the heel is fixed in position.
You especially do not have any rearward directed elasticity in the heel like that (which isn't really crucial, though).

If you want to nitpick and correctly adjust the binding, you can either remount a bit back, grind down the boot's heel at the contact points and/or open the metal arms of the binding a bit by bending (force applied best to the attachment points at the base plate).

[doebedoe]

...
While the method certainly works for most people in the field, you do NOT adjust forward pressure correctly like that, ...

If you want to nitpick and correctly adjust the binding....

Mind informing us peons then what the "correct" way is to test forward pressure? If the indicators isn't necessarily accurate, and the 50% snap-into-place isn't accurate either, where does that leave us.

[Timberridge]

Mind informing us peons then what the "correct" way is to test forward pressure? If the indicators isn't necessarily accurate, and the 50% snap-into-place isn't accurate either, where does that leave us.

with Markers.

[SB]

oar crayons

[auvgeek]

If you adjust like this, then chances are that your boot heel is resting against the arms that hold the dildo or in the ears where the arms are attached to the base plate.
That generally happens when the arms are at least 1/2 to 2/3 extended.

While the method certainly works for most people in the field, you do NOT adjust forward pressure correctly like that, as your boot is basically just squeezed in between front and rear mount plate. And all you do by adjusting until the dildo snaps is bringing the dildo close enough to your heel to properly engage, while the heel is fixed in position.
You especially do not have any rearward directed elasticity in the heel like that (which isn't really crucial, though).

If you want to nitpick and correctly adjust the binding, you can either remount a bit back, grind down the boot's heel at the contact points and/or open the metal arms of the binding a bit by bending (force applied best to the attachment points at the base plate).

I think you're objecting to the arms interfering with the boot heel, right? But it's possible to use the method adrenelated described without having the arms touch the boot heel.

Otherwise, your claim is that the FKS/Pivots have no adjustability and must be mounted for the exact bsl? Even when mounting with a jig or by hand, some small adjustment is often needed for the forward pressure, at least in my experience. I trust the fwd pressure to be set correctly using adrenelated's method over a jig any day.