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  1. #1
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    Favorite ridge walks?

    My wife, a new climber, has a goal of climbing the alpine. I know she isn't ready and I think she does to. I think she may enjoy some easy ridge walks though, mostly 4th class with potentially some 5.easy sections I could rope her on. Any sections that feel too exposed would probably require a rope as well. As a gauge, she found Angels Landing in Zion's to feel exposed but she loved doing it.

    What are some of your favorites for good rock, great position and views?

  2. #2
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    Mt. Borah in Idaho. It's all class 4, one spot where some folks feel better roping up. A lot less exposure than Angel's. I hated Angel's Landing, I wanted sticky rubber and a rope. That was partyly because of all the tourists I thought might get me killed.

  3. #3
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    tons in utah.....

    south ridge of superior (though exposure is high)

    devil's castle traverse

    Cottonwood Ridge traverse (though this makes for a long tiring day if you take it from fergusion or boards fork to alta: 11-12 miles, ~7500 vert gained)

    to name a few

  4. #4
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    k,
    I was hoping to do the south ridge of sup again this year. could take her along while yer laid up.

  5. #5
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    10,420: Park at the top of Guardsman. Hike down to the lake and then up to the summit. Spectacular hike and views of Solitude, Brighton, Alta and the snowbird tram. IMHO, better, and less traveled than the Crest.
    “How does it feel to be the greatest guitarist in the world? I don’t know, go ask Rory Gallagher”. — Jimi Hendrix

  6. #6
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    Not helpful for you, but some good ones I've done in Colorado...

    Little Bear-Blanca Traverse, low 5th, rope completely impractical, huge exposure, gorgeous
    Mt. Neva North Ridge, nice 4th class climbing
    Mt Bancroft East Ridge, 80ft rappel into a notch followed by a short 5.2 wall then lots of class 3
    Cooper Peak South Buttress, hard 4th/low 5th, steep, remote. Soloing this one was nervy but it is a beautiful climb.

  7. #7
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    Buck mountain in the tetons. If on the approach the N ridge freaks her out (super exposed 4th class), you can take her up the E face instead (3rd class)

  8. #8
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    Guert's Ridge on Olympus fits that description pretty well. It's basically a long series of short pitches of 5.5 separated by 3rd/4th class walking with periodic but not continual exposure. Really nice quartzite for the most part and great views. There's technically two short rappels, but I was able to skirt both of them pretty easily. They'd be good practice rapping for a new climber though.

    I'll second BRUTAH's suggestion of Devil's Castle, but personally I think you'd be best waiting on the south ridge of Superior. It's pretty much fatal exposure the whole way up. I'm guessing she'd have to be roped most of the time.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by adrenalated View Post
    Little Bear-Blanca Traverse, low 5th, rope completely impractical, huge exposure, gorgeous.
    I know this^ one - the exposure is puckery, but friggin' beautiful.

    And my offering is obscure and remote, but since the request was for favorites...Northern New Mexico: Trampas Lakes to North Truchas to Middle Truchas. I've done this a couple times as a day-long 23 mile traverse of the Pecos Wilderness, including South Truchas (the tallest). You spend hours above 12k feet, and there's a lot of hiking if you do the full traverse, but there's some scrambling and such on the North and Middle Truchas parts. Like this going up to North Truchas:


    And the view going over to Middle Truchas (South Truchas in the left background):


    And an exposed knife ridge on the way:


    And some slabby stuff:


    And finally going up Middle Truchas:


    There is some drop-off/shuttle stuff involved if you do the entire traverse, but to keep it mostly alpine I'd turn around at Middle Truchas and go back to the Trampas Lakes trail.

  10. #10
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    East Ridge of Russell. Class 3, with maybe a couple spots you'd rope her up due to exposure.



    http://www.supertopo.com/rock-climbi...ell-East-Ridge
    http://www.mountainproject.com/v/mt-russell/105802680
    http://www.sierradescents.com/climbi...east-ridge.php
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6-kpQAvlp9c

    14er too.

    Must be climbed while listening to...



    (Thread title made me think of it.)
    Last edited by LightRanger; 06-05-2015 at 10:47 AM.
    Quote Originally Posted by Ernest_Hemingway View Post
    I realize there is not much hope for a bullfighting forum. I understand that most of you would prefer to discuss the ingredients of jacket fabrics than the ingredients of a brave man. I know nothing of the former. But the latter is made of courage, and skill, and grace in the presence of the possibility of death. If someone could make a jacket of those three things it would no doubt be the most popular and prized item in all of your closets.

  11. #11
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    Maybe is just me, but I would never take somebody "not ready for Alpine" on any fourth class climb. They freak me the fuck out with a lot more potential to die then an easy roped 5th class climb. If you feel super confident you can short rope her, fine, but there are not many people I would trust to properly short another climber. This is even more important if there is no easy walk off. Down climbing 4th class is even sketchier.

    That said good easy alpine climbs...Cathedral Peak, Bear Creek Spire, Taneya Peak, Mt Conness. If you want a great easy into to alpine climbing, do Crystal Crag in Mammoth. It is a mini alpine route with a couple easy 5.7 (if that) a cool little ridge walk and and easy short rap/lower/down climb depending on skill and comfort level. It was my wife's second multipitch and first alpine climb. She loved it, and the massive quartz band at the top is worth it for that alone. All are in the Sierra's, because that is where I climb (and there is exceptionally good climbing.)

    I don't know how much climbing you have done with your wife, but climbing with mine freaked the fuck out at first. I had no problem climbing sketchy stuff with friends, but having the responsibility of my wife's safety was tough. I have been out with and a guide and that helped a lot. Just something to consider.

    I agree it is a constitutional right for Americans to be assholes...its just too bad that so many take the opportunity...
    iscariot

  12. #12
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    matthes crest. peeps often rope simu "climb" the walking parts and rope up for the technical parts.

    spending time with a map or something like google earth and the rj secor book and you can create a lot of great class 2/3/4 ridge walks in the sierra.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by criscam View Post
    k,
    I was hoping to do the south ridge of sup again this year. could take her along while yer laid up.
    She may like that one. I've got that 7.something mil rope that you could take for lightweight insurance.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dantheman View Post

    I'll second BRUTAH's suggestion of Devil's Castle, but personally I think you'd be best waiting on the south ridge of Superior. It's pretty much fatal exposure the whole way up. I'm guessing she'd have to be roped most of the time.
    Maybe you're right. I have to adjust my reality of acceptable exposure to fit hers.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by hutash View Post
    I don't know how much climbing you have done with your wife, but climbing with mine freaked the fuck out at first. I had no problem climbing sketchy stuff with friends, but having the responsibility of my wife's safety was tough. I have been out with and a guide and that helped a lot. Just something to consider.
    I've climbed lots of single pitch with her and a few multipitch stuff in the City of Rocks. She has a pretty good head. I may be the one freaking out after my latest fall and injury. I honestly don't know how my head will be for leading.

    Lots of good suggestions here, I've heard that Rocky Mountain NP and the Sierra's are the place for this. She honestly may just be an occasional crag climber forever, but I can dream.

  16. #16
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    If you can get to Yosemite, Cathedral Peak is probably one of the best easy alpine climbs in the world. Consistent easy 5.5, with some 5.7 variations. Solid, beautiful granite, a classic tiny summit, spectacular views, easy walk off (once you get of the summit block), nearly always perfect weather, easy one day car to car hike/climb, route finding is a snap, etc. Because of all this it is too popular, but hit it early on a week day early or later in the season and it is not too bad. Seven pitches if I recall, but that was back in the day 50 yard ropes. Super easy to protect, though the climbing is so easy and confidence inspiring you will likely run things out pretty long.

    The only sketchy part is the summit block down climb for the last person. There may be bolts, but last I heard they were chopped.

    I can tell you one thing for sure, don't take her to Mt Morrison which the the prominent, very inviting peak right above Mammoth airport. We attempted it MMD weekend, in bad weather. It has a reputation as a choss pile, and that is greatly understated. We did the NE ridge, which wasn't horrible, but it wasn't fun either. 3,000' of 3rd-4th class junk rock. It might not be too bad of a spring climb in a normal year with enough snow and a really early alpine start to avoid a lot of the choss, definitely has some fun looking ski couloirs if nothing else.

    I agree it is a constitutional right for Americans to be assholes...its just too bad that so many take the opportunity...
    iscariot

  17. #17
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  18. #18
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    No, that is the walk off.

    This one...http://mountainproject.com/v/southea...ress/105835705

    The one you link is mostly just a stroll with scrambling up very high, and and two exposed 4th class moves to the top. It's not a bad route, but only the top has any real interest. The SW buttress is vastly superior, and really not very difficult. I took a friend up it once and it was his first climb ever, and he did it in tennis shoes.

    I agree it is a constitutional right for Americans to be assholes...its just too bad that so many take the opportunity...
    iscariot

  19. #19
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    Since we're now talking about roped stuff, Tuolumne is great for this. Tenaya I soloed in Asics and put rock shoes on when we pitched out the top two. SE Buttress of Cathedral (plus the 5.4 Eichorn's Pinnacle) is one of the best moderate routes anywhere. Matthes Crest is a classic. West Ridge and North Ridge of Conness are both sick.

    All of these (ok, maybe not Tenaya) would be ultra classic alpine routes anywhere in NA, and they're within a dozen miles of each other. And a handful of miles from the trailhead.
    Quote Originally Posted by Ernest_Hemingway View Post
    I realize there is not much hope for a bullfighting forum. I understand that most of you would prefer to discuss the ingredients of jacket fabrics than the ingredients of a brave man. I know nothing of the former. But the latter is made of courage, and skill, and grace in the presence of the possibility of death. If someone could make a jacket of those three things it would no doubt be the most popular and prized item in all of your closets.

  20. #20
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    That stuff does look awesome. Is there a time of year (after labor day?), or week that you can hit those classics without traffic jams?

  21. #21
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    Thread drift, but how's does the south ridge of sup look? I wouldn't mind getting up there this month.

  22. #22
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    Sept, and Oct are great times to hit the eastern Sierra. Late Sept. is the most reliable, but the weather usually holds , Oct can be great but is more variable. Nov. can work, but weather is really hit or miss.

    My favorite time is late Sept, warm clear days, cold nights decreased crowds, no kids, a few euros still out traveling, and a lot of regulars hanging in the spots, so lots of good beta.

    I agree it is a constitutional right for Americans to be assholes...its just too bad that so many take the opportunity...
    iscariot

  23. #23
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    Mt. Katahdin, Knife Edge


  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by hutash View Post
    Maybe is just me, but I would never take somebody "not ready for Alpine" on any fourth class climb. They freak me the fuck out with a lot more potential to die then an easy roped 5th class climb. If you feel super confident you can short rope her, fine, but there are not many people I would trust to properly short another climber. This is even more important if there is no easy walk off. Down climbing 4th class is even sketchier. .
    doing things twice can help get someone to realize their ability on easy 5th class. rope up the first time and do it without a rope the second time. i think a good walk off is key because who wants to carry a rope to only use it to rappel? there's tons of scrambles in the wasatch and uintas to work allow your lady to build her confidence and work her way up to wanting to solo easy 5th class. 4th class is fun too.

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by east or bust View Post
    Mt. Katahdin, Knife Edge

    I did that in late Oct several years ago. The mountain was covered in hoar frost and since I did an alpine start I missed the fact that the route was closed. It was great to have it all to myself, but I had to dodge rangers on my way down. it is not much as mountains go, but was fun in a weird east coast sort of way. Easy third class at best as I recall.

    I agree it is a constitutional right for Americans to be assholes...its just too bad that so many take the opportunity...
    iscariot

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