Spring wax job not working well!

[Mr_Orange]

So coming off a fresh hot wax on my snowboard with all the wax on scrapped off, everything starts to feels sluggish after 2-3 runs. I look at the base and there are patches of sticky wax build up (almost like the board wasn't scraped) on the base with a lot of dirt in it. The base feels so sticky that when i get on a box feature, the whole board comes to a full stop.

I go to the parking lot and scrape off all the patches. When i get back on the hill, it feels much better again. Boxes, no problem. All okay until 2-3 runs later when the patches gradually return.

What am i doing wrong?
-I use Swix Bio Degradable Ski/Snowboard Warmer conditions Wax.
-I have a sintered base
-Waxing process: Hot scrape once, brush, wax, scrape, brush (all with same wax)

All my older boards had extruded bases and for that i was told to not wax at all during the spring. It worked well. Can you go unwaxed on sintered bases too in the spring? I remember reading somewhere that this wouldn't work for sintered.

I just got a new batch of wax this week. The Swix CH10 Hydrocarbon Wax. Maybe this'll work better.

[PlayItLeo]

You need some structure in your life.

And search.... http://www.tetongravity.com/forums/s...d.php?t=276587

[GeezerSteve]

. . . patches of sticky wax build up (almost like the board wasn't scraped) on the base with a lot of dirt in it. * * * I go to the parking lot and scrape off all the patches. When i get back on the hill, it feels much better again. Boxes, no problem. All okay until 2-3 runs later when the patches gradually return.

Is the "dirt" black or nearly black? If so, it could be pollen, a common malady in the PNW in spring/summer.

[stuckathuntermtn]

Tree sap?

[swerve]

When you scraped in the parking lot were you actually getting wax to come off or just getting whatever was stuck to your base? It might be that you didn't do quite as good a job of scraping after waxing as you thought. Some soft waxes can be a pain to scrape off fully.

[SB]

Hertels SS

and what that other guy said

[Vt-Freeheel]

Sounds like a dirty box.

[Skistack]

Stay away from dirty boxes. You could catch a disease!

[SB]

TOO LATE!

His/her box is already dirty.

[GeezerSteve]

Hertels SS

Hertel Spring Solution doesn't do it for me, just a wee bit better for pollen notwithstanding the marketing claims. IME the best wax for spring pollen is the hardest wax, e.g., http://www.slidewright.com/briko-map...wax-250-gr.php, or no wax at all.

[Johnny Deep]

Don't ski flat on your skis and keep your speed up.

And what everyone else said.

[Mr_Orange]

I do try to scrape thoroughly, to the point where the base looks totally smooth and flat. Not sure if i can go even further than that without damaging the actual base. Is it possible to scrape off the actual base material with a plastic scraper or will i eventually hit a point where you see nothing is coming off?

The dirt buildup is black. There is a long narrow path with close by trees that i go down. I do go to Big bear. Someone mentioned that was the worse when it comes to dirt buildup.

It could be that the box features are dirty but i do see other people doing them no problem.

My waxing process does sound identical to most of the ones mentioned (brushes and pads and all). A possibility is my brushes and scotchbrite pads aren't clean enough. Might be pushing wax dust back into board. I do use those waxing specific swix scotchbrite pads with the different abrasive levels.

As for the base structure thing, If you grind a spring structure into the base, does that structure only work well for the spring? Would you have to regrind a different structure into it again next season for colder weather conditions? My base does look like it has some sort of texture in it already. Like small debossed dimples everywhere.

A few people mentioned the swix bio wax is no good. Goin to try the CH10 instead.

[Ottime]

Did I wake up at epic ski this morning or is this just fun trolling.

Go hit some rocks. The grooves they make will allow melt water to flow under your board. Less suction. That is if structure is the issue. And, no, a spring structure won't effect your winter ride. Unless you regularly wear spandex

I like Glide-On yellow in spring. Out of CO. Super soft. Does only last a few days, but it easily structures with a nylon brush after stripping.

Oh, yeah. You can't hurt your base with a plastic scrape if you are doig it right. 30^ pulled nose to tail. You scrape with the under side. 30^. Not 60^.

I agree with the hard wax thing in that with a wire brush you can add a semi permanent structure to it. Rounded sprin snow will not likely scrape it off and sap has a harder time adhering to it.

But I like fresh and super soft.

Maybe stay out of the tree resin.

[RShea]

I stay away from dirty boxes- or at least protect yourself, but the idea that the base keeps getting built up with dirt to me means that you do not have the right wax or waxing procedure or base structure issues possibly. I do not use special scotch brite pads- buy the cheap green ones, sometimes at the dollar store. If you have a stiff brass brush, see if that pulls any wax out of the structure. Otherwise, a stiff white plastic brush (I used the Toko Combi brush) and try a base layer of colder or universal wax first, then a warmer wax (which is always very easy to rub off in spring like conditions.

I'd do a cleaning hot wax (cheapest wax you can get)- scrape and repeat until the wax you are scraping off has no dirt or discoloration. Then lay down a good universal or colder wax that will protect as mentioned. Then if you think the conditions are such that you want a warmer wax, do that last. and remember you are selecting a wax based on snow temperature, and if it is spring corn, maybe even try do a graphite based wax instead of traditional wax... only draw back of the graphite is it is going to be black like the dirty box.

[GeezerSteve]

Per OP's post #13 it sounds like pollen aka Cascade Klister, not a suction problem. The others not having problems probably have no or little wax on their bases.

[Mr_Orange]

I'd do a cleaning hot wax (cheapest wax you can get)- scrape and repeat until the wax you are scraping off has no dirt or discoloration. Then lay down a good universal or colder wax that will protect as mentioned. Then if you think the conditions are such that you want a warmer wax, do that last.

I've never done a 'base layer' of wax before.

Do you:

1) iron on and then scrape off all the base layer universal/colder wax first before applying the warmer wax layer over that??

or

2) iron on the base layer, iron on the warm wax over that, and then scrape it all off? (which seems more like blending the two together)

[RShea]

For the cleaning- iron on, scrape and brush completely until the wax comes off clean without dirt.

I've never done a 'base layer' of wax before.

Do you:

1) iron on and then scrape off all the base layer universal/colder wax first before applying the warmer wax layer over that??

Try it that way first.

or

2) iron on the base layer, iron on the warm wax over that, and then scrape it all off? (which seems more like blending the two together)

For this you could do either, if you want to mix the 2 temperatures, it is better to drip a bit of each and mix it. But the idea behind doing the cold wax first is it is harder and protects the base from burn on course snow. Scraping it down is harder to do - like all cold waxes are usually. Then do the final wax with the warmer softer wax. You are not racing or anything, so probably a bit of mixing would not be a problem.

[Alpinord]

A FB post after last weekends outing:

Recipe for a fun day skiing fast and smooth in highly variable snow from bullet proof to slush, bumps, cruisers and steeps:
-All-Mountain Carvers with smooth, sharp edges
-Coarse Base structure
-Durable base prep and protection wax like Briko-Maplus Race Base Medium
-Briko-Maplus Low Fluoro Red to Orange or Hydrocarbon red-yellow blend. Leaning the wax towards a colder, harder and more durable wax last longer during the day and the coarser base structure avoids suction from wetter snows. Yellow runs great but wears off faster. Reapply at mid-day if possible by rubbing in, corking and brushing.

The bases cruised through wet corn and slush very well. With spring abrasive snows, softer waxes come off faster.

[That was Pontus]

So coming off a fresh hot wax on my snowboard with all the wax on scrapped off

Did you loosen off your bindings (and any other hardwear if it's a split) before waxing/scrapping? If shit is screwed down tight, the t-nuts can suck up sections of bases and you will miss spots with the scrapper. It might look like you've got it all, but there tends to be a layer still there wherever hardware is attached.

[johnmtl11]

I do try to scrape thoroughly, to the point where the base looks totally smooth and flat. Not sure if i can go even further than that without damaging the actual base. Is it possible to scrape off the actual base material with a plastic scraper or will i eventually hit a point where you see nothing is coming off?

A few people mentioned the swix bio wax is no good. Goin to try the CH10 instead.

What does your base feel like after you scrape and brush, before you use the scotchbrite? Is it consistent everywhere? I've had some high wax spots sometimes and they collect everything on the slope.


I used Swix UR10 bio wax at Park City back in Feb when it was almost 50F out, standing water at the base, mashed potatoes everywhere else, thin cover on some runs. Wax worked great, may not be the best spring wax out there but it worked for me and I don't have base structure work done. I'm sure CH10 will be a little better but I think your biggest problem is unscraped wax, then everything else probably factors in after that.


If you're scraping and you can still shave wax off then you're not done yet, I spend most of my time scraping. The more you scrape the easier the brush will be after (I use a 1/2 bronze, 1/2 nylon brush and no scotchbrite).