Results 76 to 100 of 121
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02-27-2015, 08:48 AM #76
If you're already running 10spd, just pick up the One-Up 40t cog (they'll likely throw in the 16t). You can run it with a mid-cage and won't have the rad-cage or B-tension gynmanstics to get it shifting well. 30 or 32t nw chainring depending on fitness. Probably $100 all in if you find deals.
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02-27-2015, 08:54 AM #77
I have to agree with this. I've been a die-hard 160 guy in the past and have been on the Process 134 (with a Pike 150) for a year or so. I occasionally miss the plow-factor, but it is usually after a mental error or bad line selection. Local loops from the house put me in plenty of DH-sled terrain. P134 slays it.
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02-27-2015, 09:11 AM #78User
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02-27-2015, 09:28 AM #79
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02-27-2015, 09:42 AM #80
The slightly oversimplified version is that you maintain much more responsiveness with a little less travel. On the scale of dh bike to hardtail, that covers the gamut from the hardtail responding to rocks that flip you over the bars that a dh bike wouldn't even notice......... to being able to drag your brakes on that hardtail and pop the same lip you'd be sprinting into on a dh bike just to clear.
There's a reason guys like Josh Bryceland cite the 5010 as his favorite BIKE that SC makes. And it's not because he can't handle teh gnurr or has none to ride. That kid is in a bunch of old rankin movies at like 14 years old manualing and jumping all over the place. And in almost all cases, if you can find smoother lines and hold on (not always a given by any means), less travel will be faster because there's more momentum to be gained with less energy going into a damper.
It has a lot less to do with where one lives than people on ArizonaRox™ or NorthVanGnurr™ would have you believe.Last edited by kidwoo; 02-27-2015 at 09:58 AM.
Besides the comet that killed the dinosaurs nothing has destroyed a species faster than entitled white people.-ajp
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02-27-2015, 11:12 AM #81Registered User
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- Jan 2004
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LOTS of people shredding the lower travel bikes here in NorthVanGnurr and loving it.
A good design 130-140 with a well adjusted damper with do anything and everything a 160 bike does. The difference as Woo pointed out is the response and efficiency.
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02-27-2015, 02:07 PM #82
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02-27-2015, 05:55 PM #83Registered User
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- Oct 2005
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- Truckee
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I think I like 160 millimeters of travel as a happy medium do everything in tahoe/I can only afford 1 bike, because I'm six foot, 200 lbs, and not the smoothest rider. It seems to keep me in the sweet spot in the suspension. Maybe a shorter travel bike can do the same, I just haven't tried one. I'd love to try one though if it was super poppy but still let me plow through stuff. I will say that with the Cane Creek double barrel air, I actually can tell a difference from a couple clicks on an intense T275 (in my experience). From the recommended factory tune 1 click less low speed rebound and the bike was more poppy and a quarter more turn of high-speed rebound and it keeps me level in the air.
Anyone try a new ibis hd3?
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02-27-2015, 06:25 PM #84
For me, some of the preference comes down to trail and quality of travel. I prefer a more linear curve on my short travel bike - lots of fun and playful - and a more progressive curve on my long travel bike - eats gnar for breakfast and can soak up the bigger hits.
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02-27-2015, 09:16 PM #85
I like my bike.
I'm sure if I had some time on her, I'd get to like your bike too.
But for now, I like my bike real good.
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02-27-2015, 09:25 PM #86
More travel often means more room for error. Yes its less responsive but there is a balance. We have all wished for more or less travel on different rides. Sometimes its skill, other times its fitness and fatigue or more likely a mixture of both. The obvious answer is 2 bikes.
a positive attitude will not solve all of your problems, but it may annoy enough people to make it worth the effort
Formerly Rludes025
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02-27-2015, 10:34 PM #87
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02-28-2015, 08:29 AM #88Banned
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02-28-2015, 09:44 AM #89
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03-06-2015, 06:19 PM #90
just ordered a large SB5c. custom build to come. stoked!
"If we can't bring the mountain to the party, let's bring the PARTY to the MOUNTAIN!"
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03-06-2015, 07:22 PM #91
Probably not relevant but good as place as any. Grubbies sb6c with a coil shocker and triple looks pretty sick. Seriously thinking of running just my rune swapping between coil and triple with 26ers for park and air shock with pike and 650b's for xcin. 170 cranks 1x with one up 42 and 30t nw ring. Screw the range adjust on the r der in so just goes up to the 36(one up for spoke protector) and throw on a 36t nw ring for park. Biggest difference between bikes when I swapped at the park last year was triple clamp comfort/confidence especially after a long day. Darkside frame would be best I guess, 165mm or 180
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03-06-2015, 11:26 PM #92
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03-06-2015, 11:47 PM #93
Ridin the front wheel moto all moto style. Braap
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03-07-2015, 07:00 AM #94
That Darkside looks like hell to pedal on, FWIW. Fun to think about that kind of bike though. I just slacked out my 26er Nomad, built it heavy and ran it on the 'big' trails anyway. Not quite the same, but pretty damn good. Bought a lightweight 5" to fill out the quiver. A good 7" bike might have been a better option to the Nomad, but it works, is cheap, and I can do an all day ride just fine if the downhill calls for something gnarly.
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03-07-2015, 08:28 AM #95
Pretty much the same as my rune in system and weight . Short shock option makes it 165mm rear travel. Pike and my parts 30lbs. Not sure about an 83mm bb shell bike as a daily pedal bike though. Have to compare Q factor of shimano vs. race face. Could get race face now in 73mm and change to 83 axle later to swap is nice
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03-07-2015, 08:37 AM #96
Aren't the reach, seat and head angles off though as a daily pedal in 165 mode? Super low bb with a 160mm pike, too?
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03-07-2015, 03:10 PM #97
Where DO you come up with this stuff?!
"it was more or less a band-aid bike to get a 27.5 Blur to market at soon as possible." You know this because...?
I've ridden 5150s, Nomads, SBs (75&66), Enduros, Norco Ranges, & Mojos. I picked the Bronson because it has, in my opinion, the best balance of pedal vs dh performance of any of these. Granted, that's with the Float X rear shock. It definitely adds DH chops.
The 5150 was close but felt slightly undergunned in the rocky descents here in northern NM.
Apparently, I'm a noodler who happens to race enduro and dh.
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03-07-2015, 06:04 PM #98
not really. pike w 650b- high position at dropouts- 65.5ha,74.5sa,13.8bb,>17cs. mid position 65ha,74sa,13.4bb, 17cs. reach is increased. I'd downsize from my med rune to small darkside. I can run the 650b in 26 dropouts on my rune with plenty of room. if I could do that with the darkside the mid setting would be amazing w 16.6 cs and 13.4bb. I think the site lists numbers with single crown fox forks(rune w 160 and ds with 180) judging by a to c numbers. pike has slightly smaller a to c
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03-07-2015, 06:17 PM #99
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03-08-2015, 10:36 PM #100
Wife and a friend both demo'd Spec Enduros this weekend.
Both said the bike is super stable and absolutely plows through technical trail. Both said that they had to check themselves not to go too fast because if left to itself the bike will fly.
Both said the bike was a little less flicky than their usual bikes, and didn't really mind it.
The small frame (aluminum) Enduro had a significant problem/drawback. There's some kind of rod/stop inside the seat tube waaaaay above where it bends. Presumably, it's to stop the seatpost from damaging the frame by jamming down in there. The result was that my wife's 125mm LEV was nowhere close to fitting on the bike. It was retarded. Having to use infinite adjust on the high end just to pedal uphill was infinitely annoying. Knowing that she'd probably have to put a 75mm dropper on it to make it work, and that the seat would never drop as deep as it could/should, is a total deal breaker. If the carbon frame lacks this stupidness, it'll be back on the table.
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