White spots after base grind and waxing?

[Gaperious Basterd]

Hello,

You magz have been the best at instantly identifying tech issues.

No camera (iPhone nor digital) coukd work, so you'll have to go on my description.

I got a wintersteiger tube with epoxy AND p-tex fill after severe base damage from skiing on powder-on-crust-AND-underbrush-AND-rocks at the Canyons.

Anyhow, a long story follows.

For those willing to read, when I picked up skis, a gouge in base was still there. I said I wanted it filled, so they out in p-tex and had be wait 45 minutes. Epoxy was put in the core shots I sustained.

Anyhow, when I got skis they looked glossy. Employee told me they gave me "complimentary structure grind" AFTER melting p-text into the big gouge.


So, I skied on them and clearly they forgot to base-bevel. I base-beveled myself, and all is well.



ANYWAY, AFTER I BASE-FILED MYSELF AND RE-WAXED, SOMS SECTIONS OF BASE SHOW POWDERY WHITE SPOTS AFTER WAX, SCRAPE, AND NYLON BRUSH.




Someone please inform me WTF is up?



I've never seen this on a base.


ThanX!!!!

[stuckathuntermtn]

It sounds like old wax. Need pictures.

[glademaster]

This thread is useless without pictures. It could be one of a number of things based on your mediocre description.

The employee was probably just parroting a mangled version of a response he was told to utter by his manager, any time you fill "severe base damage" in a ski shop setting, you're going to grind and restructure the ski after unless you are explicitly told not to.

That still isn't going to help us identify what you're describing without pics.

[XXX-er]

Pictures of your girlfriend that is ... we don't give a fuck about your skis

[stuckathuntermtn]

Is it warm by you? Could also be tree sap and shit stuck to it (like old wax)

[iscariot]

Puberty?

[Gaperious Basterd]

This, all over parts of the bases, after wax, scrape and brush with Toko NF Blue (a hard hydrocarbon).

Apparently they grind flat and THEN structure if customers pay extra charge on top of the 60 bucks.

In my case, since they missed a spot, they melted p-tex, scraped it, then proceeded straight to the structuring without the first step of re-grinding flat.

[stuckathuntermtn]

There is wax down in the structure. Maybe a little coarse. Have you skied them yet? Should just come off.

[Alpinord]

After a grind, I'd have used brush and topical base cleaner to clean out and debris and old wax not adhered well. Then apply a soft prep wax to re-saturate the base before progressing to the hard wax. You might try that out to see if it resolves the issue. (It's hard to tell anything from the image.)

[Gaperious Basterd]

I did ski them. I'll aggressively brush with my brass brush, melt in some CH10, and rewax.

I suppose I've never had such an aggressive (and cross-hatched) structure in any ski, so maybe I just need to brush harder or something.

[ill-advised strategy]

I would also take a true bar or a known flat surface and see if that isn't some weird concave spot or bulge or something.

edit: also a steel brush might be the tool of choice for getting in deep.

[charles martel]

Hello,

You magz have been the best at instantly identifying tech issues.

No camera (iPhone nor digital) coukd work, so you'll have to go on my description.

I got a wintersteiger tube with epoxy AND p-tex fill after severe base damage from skiing on powder-on-crust-AND-underbrush-AND-rocks at the Canyons.

Anyhow, a long story follows.

For those willing to read, when I picked up skis, a gouge in base was still there. I said I wanted it filled, so they out in p-tex and had be wait 45 minutes. Epoxy was put in the core shots I sustained.

Anyhow, when I got skis they looked glossy. Employee told me they gave me "complimentary structure grind" AFTER melting p-text into the big gouge.


So, I skied on them and clearly they forgot to base-bevel. I base-beveled myself, and all is well.



ANYWAY, AFTER I BASE-FILED MYSELF AND RE-WAXED, SOMS SECTIONS OF BASE SHOW POWDERY WHITE SPOTS AFTER WAX, SCRAPE, AND NYLON BRUSH.




Someone please inform me WTF is up?



I've never seen this on a base.


ThanX!!!!

Sometimes, my tune guy told me, the heat from the grind can cause a small part(s) of the base to discolor. I had this happen to a pair a few years ago, but they skied fine and held their structure and wax well.

[Gaperious Basterd]

The new aggressive structure makes slarveing and smearing in soft snow a hassle.

[John_B]

The new aggressive structure makes slarveing and smearing in soft snow a hassle.

Really?

[geoffers]

This, all over parts of the bases, after wax, scrape and brush with Toko NF Blue (a hard hydrocarbon).

Apparently they grind flat and THEN structure if customers pay extra charge on top of the 60 bucks..

I wonder if this could be "fluff" left by using too coarse a belt.

I've just run a new coarse belt on my belt sander over the bases on some old skis, which left similar grey appearance to the base with a lot of fluffy raised ptex, and have had to do a lot of scraping with a sharp steel scraper to get them back to normal.

[glademaster]

The new aggressive structure makes slarveing and smearing in soft snow a hassle.

That sounds like something that would be caused by too little base edge bevel, not the structure.

[stuckathuntermtn]

Actually, it sounds like it's all in his head.
If the snow is soft, the edge bevel shouldn't matter. I run half a degree for when it's not.
Maybe try filling up the structure with a couple coats of warm temp wax, and then, if it's not a warm shitty winter where you are, another coat of bulk, or colder temp wax.
Think SVST red, then white or blue or even purple. Or, if it's still warm, a third cold scrape of the red. Make sure you brush and buff so it comes out nice and smoove.

[Gaperious Basterd]

Well, after my shop's stellar structure-grind, the base bevel must have been negative (concave).

I used a bastard and ice-cut, twice, along with fresh diamond stones. I gummied the edges with elbow grease. They are still aggressive.

I feel the longitudinal structure mitigates the float on hydrated snow. Structure is so deep I can feel ridges with fingers.

The factory base out of Blizzard was perfect for smeary turns and rotational friction mitigation.

[RShea]

Are you guessing about the concave bases? Put a true bar or straight edge to see if they are flat or concave - use a flashlight behind it to see if you can see any light appearing... Aggressive base structure is usually better for soft wet snow. Maybe the edges are wrong angles and not what you are used to. Use the same true bar to see if you can measure the angle on these- compared to an older pair of skis you may still have around.

http://www.slidewright.com/weblog/sk...g-edge-bevels/

If they are still white- try to use a metal scraper to see if it is pulling ptex hairs still, or also try a 3M Scotch Brite pad (they make different coarseness on these)

[PlayItLeo]

I feel the longitudinal structure mitigates the float on hydrated snow.

Wow. Just fucking wow.

[ill-advised strategy]

this thread is brutal.

[glademaster]

Your problem lies in the ski being railed (edge high), a lack of proper base edge tuning, or just much sharper edges than you're used to. The structure isn't keeping you from skiing off edge like a pounder, your bases are just ribbed for the snows' pleasure now.

[stuckathuntermtn]

If it was ground and stone ground with a course structure how can it still be edge high? Serious question. I know snowboards and very fat skis are difficult to get flat, but the OP's gear looks like neither. Can a shop and their equipment suck that hard? I'm literally having a hard time thinking how it that is possible.

[glademaster]

I think the issue is more likely to be a lack of base edge bevel. I know you say base edge angle doesn't matter in soft snow, but I respectfully disagree. I have skied the same pair set up with 0.5-2 degree base edge bevels, and there is absolutely a difference in how the ski engages and pivots, even in deep snow. That aside, if the ski is railed, I believe it happened when they had them on the belt, not the stone. You can definitely rail a ski by giving it too many passes over a belt, depending on grit. The stone wouldn't fix that, and unless you worked the shit out of the edges, an edger isn't going to fix it either.

[stuckathuntermtn]

Yes, the lighter grits are definitely better for a touchup.
If it's flat, but railed, can he just file the edges?
And I tune a half degree base, 2 degree side, and can slide sideways, slarve, slash, and carve all I want. Maybe it's the skis, maybe it's my Ice Coast childhood.