F

[enginerd]

The annual pilgrimage to good ice took me back to the San Juans over the 2014/2015 new year week. As it turned out this was the perfect choice. Not only are Telluride, Silverton and Ouray some of the best cities in which to spend your time, after a bit of a warm spell early December, the melt freeze effect has grown many hard classics into great fun for mere mortals. Get on a plane, fly to Colorado and send your dream line TODAY!

Going into this trip, our eyes were on 5 main classic lines: Stairway to Heaven, The Ribbon, Whorehouse hoses, Ames Ice hose and Bridalveil falls. Long story short: Among a plethora of other fun routes we were able to get 2 out of 5. That may not sound like much but Whorehouse hoses and Ames Ice hose are each worth the trip in their own right. Getting on both of them and finding them in record fat condition was certainly a highlight in my ice climbing history. Making the difficult call to not climb Stairway to Heaven or the Ribbon due to the high avalanche exposure was a call that will hopefully earn us many more years of safe back country enjoyment.

ON WITH THE PHOTOS!
We started (like everyone else) in the ice park. It had just opened the week we showed up:




Then we when to skylight area:

The popular and classic Chopo's Chimney



The area's namesake Skylight


Slip Slidin Away


Local hardman route we didn't climb, Talisman


Now over to Eureka/Silverton area where many amazing long climbs reside. High avy danger here. Some of these photos are from two years ago. I couldn't resist the opportunity to show the world how awesome this place is:

STAIRWAY TO HEAVEN!!


Fat City Area


One of the many other gullies in the area


And one of the gems of anyone's trip to the san juans.

Whore House Hoses in FAT!!
This can be done in one full 70m pitch. If you have 60's, you'll have to set an intermediate belay below the top.


3rd pitch(es):




And now on to Telluride for our capstone project: Ames Ice Hose.

I have to admit I was more than a bit intimidated by the idea of this climb and the scary stories that surround it. I was elated to find it in delightfully fat condition and after 8 days of climbing (ok...1 day I "took off" to ski silverton) we were in shape to send with complete confidence (right where I like to be for ice climbing):

The Hose!


Closer


Pitch 1, 120' (The scary mixed looking not too scary and not to mixed)


Pitch 2, 200' (The hose pitch dripping wet!)


Pitch 3, 200' (The big sheet looking like a big sheet!!)


Take me back!!!

[LightRanger]

That looks fun. I was just telling Mike I want to trade my Sabretooths for something light because I don't climb ice. Maybe I should buy some tools and fuck around in Coldstream (when it's finally cold again in like five years?) instead.

[hutash]

Excellent sends, thanks for posting that.

I only have about a half dozen days under my belt, and no leads, but it sure is fun. If any Eastside mags are looking for a partner let me know. Lee Vining was pretty thin last I checked, Roadside was nonexistent, but Horsetail Falls (?) in June was pretty fat during the big freeze at the beginning of the year.

[jmerrey]

Awesome stuff, man!

[enginerd]

Thanks All! Not sure how or why the original thread spawned an evil twin named "F" but do find it great that this one got all the replies!

LightRanger, sell your sabertooths, buy grivel G20's, live life light and happy!

[Unfrozen Caveman Lawyer]

NICE!!! I was hoping you would post up your shots. Great looking trip. That last climb in Telluride is very impressive. You are climbing ice strong buddy!