Results 26 to 50 of 57
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11-30-2014, 10:29 AM #26
I wish the home inspector had done more to frighten me. I never should have purchased this shit heap. Sure we got a few concessions. However, that doesn't make up for what I'm stuck with now. As far as I am concerned the inspector's job is to make the sale go through at all costs so that the Realtor's still get paid for doing next to nothing. :evil:
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11-30-2014, 02:32 PM #27
I have yet to dive deep into this option. The 2 year "bumper to bumper" coverage is expired as it started at lock-up as opposed to when we took posession.
No backup offers. I'm really looking to put a number to the fix, lower the price and move on. the $500 a few of you are throwing around is sounding like a good option.
Got any pictures?
Researching it more and taking a closer look makes me think that removing it presents a high risk of destroying things and making the fix mucho $$$. I am kind of upset that it was brought up and has become the only sticking point in the deal, but it looks like I've got to come to some reasonable resolution with the buyers as they are telling me they can't get insurance unless the issue is solved. I obviously have insurance, but I didn't go telling my insurer that the home violates code.
This is the city building inspector. The house has an occupancy permit, that was signed by the same city inspector. When he issued it, there were no appliances installed. He is sounding a bit inexperieced and deferring to the BCSA gas inspector, who is suggesting that the upper cabinets be raised.
More of a buyers market. No agents are involved. I'm tempted to not do anything, but the buyers are being very willing to work with us. I'm trying to keep it to a small reduction in price as opposed to say the thousands that it would cost to replace the counters.
This is completely driven by the buyers insurer. They have disclosed the issue and now the insurer needs to have a compliant installation or no coverage, and therefore no sale. They are willing to accept the local inspectors sign off on whatever solution we come up with.
Looking closely at the cabinets today, I"m thinking about charging into things and raising them up the required inch. Mostly because this is something that I think I can so myself in a day or less. Dealing with the countertops requires skills I don't have. I'm not convinced that the inspector will be satisfied with any sort of fire barrier. They are god in this case as mentioned.
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11-30-2014, 03:17 PM #28Registered User
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If you insist on bending to their unreasonable demands, there is probably a bit of extra material at the top of the cabinet that you could cut off without screwing up the integrity of the cabinet. Maybe not a full inch but there might be 3/4" and you could take out the rest from the bottom but then you gotta deal with that unfinished and visible edge.
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11-30-2014, 03:19 PM #29
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11-30-2014, 05:05 PM #30
A sheet of copper, some snips and a little imagination, might work. OP, there are plenty of mags that are or have done kitchen design. Post up a pick and I bet some dentist will come up with a cheap solution.
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11-30-2014, 05:12 PM #31
If at all possible, don't setup the fix yourself. Get some quotes and give the buyers a portion of that. They'll then proceed to pocket it and ignore it.
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11-30-2014, 07:06 PM #32Registered User
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I would speak directly to the supervisor and ask for a real world solution they can live with and sign off. Figure out the cost and try to negotiate with buyer. I think not having agents actually makes things easier and much faster resolution . So this is a for sale by owner WITHOUT buyer representation from a real estate agent ? If the buyer wants the house and you want to move the house have a max dollar amount that you are willing to reduce and start well below that as your initial offer toward repair. Sounds like you will be tagged for the code I fraction and will make the sale not possible withour repair at this point. Again, have a honest conversation with the city inspector and work toward resolution. I have never heard of a city inspector coming on site for a real estate transaction in my area so what do I know.
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11-30-2014, 07:29 PM #33
Raising the uppers will probably be the most painless solution. Put up a photo of the cabinets and I can probably tell just how big a pain it will be. Inside near the top of the cabinets, outside with one looking at the fridge condition and from the side if possible.
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12-01-2014, 11:13 AM #34
you don't need a home inspector to tell if a house is well made. when I was looking to buy, we would walk in and just walk out (sloping floors, shitty windows, additions that are falling apart, etc) the shit holes you see in Vermont are unbelievable
oh wait, old homes have soul and charm...
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12-01-2014, 07:26 PM #35
Thanks everyone for the input so far. Here are some photos. I think the only real snag is the fridge surround - but I'm no carpenter.
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12-01-2014, 07:28 PM #36
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12-01-2014, 07:57 PM #37
wow, i assumed up front you meant a home inspector (def odd to have a city inspector invited to a house sale inspection)
have that conversation with the city inspector, but i suspect, if he's on the record with this, that it will be hard for him to back away
still think counter solution is most effective (esp since that's how this all started)...if you can't get the buyer to accept a cash discount towards repair
the way the counter is above the cooking plates already, i'm surprised you haven't had heat issues with the corian at the edges there...
good luck with the resolution!
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12-01-2014, 08:37 PM #38
Clearly the answer here is to sue the city inspector for failure to perform his job.
Also, if you removed the grate, and measure from the top of the burner (which seems to be the clearance that is required) what is the clearance measurement? They appear to be 3/4 inch below the countertop already. That first photo you posted from the codebook is deceiving because it appears to show the surface of the countertop being the point from which you measure, but code states to measure from the level surface of the burner.
Also, does that measurement have to be taken perpendicular to the burner or can it be taken at an angle between the combustible surface and the burner?
My reading of your code is that the clearance is to the burner not to any other part of the cooking surface. It's to the heat source, which is clearly the intent of the code."These are crazy times Mr Hatter, crazy times. Crazy like Buddha! Muwahaha!"
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12-01-2014, 08:58 PM #39
After looking at the pictures I'd first ask for a variance, trying to get the extra inch isn't going to be worth the money
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12-01-2014, 09:49 PM #40
Bribe inspector, duh.
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12-01-2014, 10:08 PM #41Registered User
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how the fk did the building inspector get involved? & why is the dumbass now saying its not compliant when he signed it off before?
Hopefully you can measure from the burner not the grate top & be good (?). Man what a pain in the ass.
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12-01-2014, 10:56 PM #42Registered User
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Did you have current counter in the house when you have compliance to buy/move in from said inspector ? Will your buyer be able to get insurance IF a exception is granted ? You have two issues potentially. One the city and the insurability unless they find a different carrier and keep their mouth shut.
Last edited by fatnslow; 12-01-2014 at 11:17 PM.
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12-01-2014, 10:57 PM #43Registered User
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yeah right from the git go the whole story doesn't add up
Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know
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12-02-2014, 08:28 AM #44Registered User
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From the pictures, the inspector is insane. That looks more compliant than most other homes i have seen. Is the issue the distance between the burners and the hood? Or the distance between the burners and the cabinets on each side?
Something isn't adding up here. I would just pull the cabinets from the wall, have the inspector come and sign off and then put them back up.
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12-02-2014, 03:08 PM #45
I lowered the stove recently. Normal run mode was to have things all flush with the counters. I interpreted the code exactly the same as char does and thought that I could convince the inspector to see things my way. So far I haven't, but I'm working on it. I've monitored the counter edge temp recently when cooking since this all came up (with it below the tops) and never has it even been too hot to put my fingers on.
Distance from burners to bottom of cabinets is about 455mm. Now to the authority having juristiction it seems that burners below counter edge = no go. I agree with your interpretation.
Issue is the distance to the adjacent cabinets, not the one above the stove.
For those noting that things don't add up, here's the background: House was substantially completed in ~2011 by a developer, but there was not an occupancy permit issued. Main issue was the the stairs up to the front door weren't completed, so a person exiting the front door was faced with a 10 ft drop. Sometime in 2012 developer went tits up and left town and the bank repossessed the house. House sat on the market for a year at too high an asking price. I made an offer in 2013 that was conditional on the occupancy permit being obtained. Another contractor finished the items and occupancy permit was issued by the city in Sept 2013. When it was issued, no appliances were installed. I took possession Oct 2013 and proceeded to purchase appliances. When I asked a local gasfitter to connect the stove, he refused stating that the install wouldn't meet code. I decided that the risk to my family was minimal and connected the stove myself. We've lived there for a year now with zero issues.
Circumstances have changes and we are now selling the house. These buyers happened to have viewed the house in the time is was listed and liked it, but the timing wasn't right. This fall they got wind that it might be available and knocked on the door. They had a concern about some of the gas piping in the mechanical room and called a local gasfitter for advice. This was the same guy that refused to install the stove, and he advised them of that.
They decided that this wasn't ok with them and contacted their insurance company, who told them that they need to make things compliant or get the approval of the city inspector. This is how the city inspector is involved.
I've got a message in to the inspector and I'm going to have one more go with him before I tear apart the kitchen. the whole thing is ridiculous and I want to try and have a real conversation instead of things being so black and white. I'm pretty sure we're not going to get there, though.
Thanks again for all the replies.
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12-02-2014, 03:44 PM #46Registered User
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ok that makes sense
just a wild ass shot in the dark, any chance of instaling a different stove maybe a smooth top electric if there is a plug ... just to get the certificateLee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know
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12-02-2014, 04:07 PM #47Registered User
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You are fucked on resolution with the inspector, most likely looking at a minor kitchen remodel to be able to sell this thing to the same buyer who knows the past history on this house. If I was the buyer I would leverage this info to my advantage to negotiate. If you want to sell this thing as a kitchen with gas stove you need to repair since this is most likely in the "system" as a house with infractions. You have two choices here. 1. Replace the counters including your island and drop height by removing the extra height or 2. Raise all upper cabinets to meet code. Both these will require you to do some magic on the back splash to make things look cohesive. As XXXer states cheapest solution might be a electric stove if the buyer is willing to accept the solution and it meets code. Go buy a shitty used electric stove for $100 and give your buyer a healthy discount so they can buy a new kick ass "induction" stove. Just tell them gas is so"6 year ago"! I myself have done a ton of shit like this at my houses but realize that anytime that there is potential for a inspector looking at things that have not been "permitted" you are rolling dice so I feel you pain. Real world some times does not equal first world rules.
Last edited by fatnslow; 12-02-2014 at 04:18 PM.
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12-02-2014, 07:50 PM #48
Jesus fucking christ.
1. In what universe do you need your house to meet every possible code to get insurance? Definitely not this one. Fuck the buyers, they are liars (this is the #2 rule of real estate, BTW).
2. Failing that, cut (or unscrew and then cut 1" off) the fucking feet off the stove. Problem = solved.
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12-03-2014, 07:14 AM #49
Isn't Canada sweet! Oh wait...eh...only sometimes. Admittedly, my experience is south of the border but something isn't right. You say you got the C/O. Did you ever get your final inspection? If you did, what jurisdiction does the inspector has.
I'm not even sure what the code is for this. Uppers always go at 54" otherwise all types of stuff doesn't work like full height pantries etc. What is the UL listing for the clearances? If the lower the range will the inspector pass you?
I can tell you that any of the proposed fixes will be pretty expensive.
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12-03-2014, 11:42 AM #50Registered User
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How many of you had your ADHD ebb long enough to read post # 46?
Its a VERY unique situation which has nothing to do with being in Canada, what it underlines is that if things don't get done right which started with the developer who ducked his responsibility by leaving town, sooner or later it will bite you in the ass
so it costs you $$$ but how much did you save buying a distressed sale, look at it from that POV and maybe ... your asshole won't hurt as much?Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know
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