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11-25-2014, 08:36 AM #1Registered User
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- Oct 2012
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How close is too close? (pics) - DPS 112 Pure
TL;DR: Pick a heel layout for my STH14s on DPS 112 Pures:
A) +1-ish (my preferred spot) approx 7mm from the old holes
B) Slightly behind midsole (not ideal) approx 8mm from 2 holes but the rest are far away. Some wiggle room here to go a little farther back, but the toe holes come into play if I go too much farther.
C) Buy some plates from jondrums
Details:
I'm following the PSA thread for ski mounting and have installed my Barons on my clearance Nordica H&B's without incident. I saved the DPS mount for last because the carbon and the price tag are a bit more nerve-wracking.
The remaining holes from the demos that were on there are ruining all of my plans. I think I would prefer buying plates to going -1 cm or more - I had initially planned to go +1 if at all possible. BSL is 318.
I'm planning to drill @ 4.1mm and use urethane (Marine Goop) to fill the holes. I saw a post from Marshal saying that he personally drills at 3.6mm although engineering recommends 4.1 - would that be a good option at least for the heel piece where the holes are so close? Other options to minimize the harm here?
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11-25-2014, 09:24 AM #2Registered User
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- Mar 2008
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- northern BC
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YMMV, with demo bindings I skied the 112 at everything from +6 to -2 and I liked it at about +4 so I would just move Boot center a bit and not have to worry about pull out
Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know
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11-25-2014, 10:16 AM #3
I would not go with A, then decide what conditions you'll be primarily riding with those....fore or aft on the mount. Interesting they go with the 4.1 bit without any metal.
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11-25-2014, 11:02 AM #4
What are the holes filled with? If they're just plugs, pull them out and fill with a workable epoxy like JB Weld and put the bindings where you want them. If they're already filled with epoxy just put the bindings where your want and if you get a spinner use a heli-coil.
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11-25-2014, 11:57 AM #5Registered User
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- Oct 2012
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- 51
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11-25-2014, 12:10 PM #6
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11-25-2014, 12:10 PM #7
Option A is sketchy. Option B or C are ok. Best option is to figure out what binding was there before and re-use the holes. Helicoil if necessary.
Thread a drywall screw into the plastic plug by hand, about 1/4 inch deep, then pull out with pliers or hammer claw.
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11-25-2014, 12:51 PM #8
I have no opinion your situation, but you'll notice that companies recommend 1cm parallel to the LENGTH of the ski, not just overall spacing distance. Just an FYI.
"...if you're not doing a double flip cork something, skiing spines in Haines, or doing double flip cork somethings off spines in Haines, you're pretty much just gaping."
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11-25-2014, 01:03 PM #9
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11-25-2014, 01:29 PM #10Registered User
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- Nov 2007
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- 336
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11-27-2014, 04:29 PM #11Registered User
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- Jun 2004
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- Vancouver, BC
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Mount the toe in the indicated position (the position yielding the correct boot location with respect to the ski). Drill the heel +5 mm from option A, then mount and move the heel back in the track using the length adjustment. Salomon heels have at least +- 10 mm adjustment, so you should be good to go.
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11-27-2014, 05:39 PM #12
^ Good plan. The STH-14 has about 19mm of adjustment if I remember correctly, about 8mm forward and 11mm back from the triangle pointing at the leading edge of the silver heel bracket.
If the RP is anything like my 138's (R1/F2), the thick upper sheet of carbon fiber is seriously stout. I'm going to have to place some inserts almost next to each other to add an STH pattern (to an existing Duke pattern), and using G/Flex epoxy I'm not too concerned about it. (Flip skis upside down while curing, so epoxy pools against bottom of insert instead of the bottom of hole.)
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11-28-2014, 08:35 AM #13
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11-28-2014, 10:51 AM #14
Don't know if he has any toe hole conflicts, but I'd give position priority to the front three screws in the STH heel (particularly the center screw) - those probably take a lot more loading than the rear two heel screws.
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11-29-2014, 04:45 PM #15Registered User
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- Oct 2012
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- 51
Thanks all - back from holiday travel so I have some time to work on this. I'm going to epoxy everything that might be close (I have JB weld on hand so was planning to just use that unless there's a compelling reason to buy something specific) and I think I can make a heel mount in front of A work with an effective mount close to +2 cm if I use the travel available. Should be just under 1 cm (down the ski length) clearance on those two rear heel holes and at least 2 cm everywhere else. The toe holes should have 1+ cm.
Seems like a reasonable solution... hopefully it works. I'll report back when it's done.
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12-05-2014, 10:28 AM #16Registered User
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- Oct 2012
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- 51
I finally got a chance to finish this project and it turned out really well - thanks again for all the help. Here's what happened, if anyone's interested:
1) Decided to epoxy the close holes & go +2 to avoid the sketchy mount at choice A). B) was going to be behind the midsole, and for these skis I decided that was my last choice.
2) Drilled a couple of the plugs out and filled with epoxy. This did NOT go particularly well - the plugs didn't want to come out and I wasn't convinced the epoxy job was better than the plugs (which were put in by the DPS shop in SLC). I decided to leave the rest as-is and go ahead with the mount.
3) Mounted them up at +2 after some careful measurements:
Kind of scary drilling the holes but the carbon is bomber and I'm confident they're in a good spot:
Great success. Adjusted the worm screws and they are in the middle of the range so I'm good to go.
Final product from both mounts:
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