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  1. #1
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    Raceface-E13 Compatibility Question

    Cross posted from mtbr since none of those stravatards could answer my question.

    I have an old 2007 Kona Coiler with a RaceFace RIDE XC ISIS crankset and SRX ISIS B/B (not sure what size though I'd guess 68mm). My current (stock) setup has a 24T and 36T sprocket up front and I want to ditch the small ring since I can't remember ever using it and put a chain guide on.

    It looks like I will be able to use an E13 guide ring no problem since it says on the site that they're good to use with 104mm BCD.

    My question is can I recycle the bash guard from the Raceface crankset and use it in conjunction with an E13 lg1+? I'm getting all confuzzed about the ISCG old and ISCG 05.

    Some pictures that may or may not help.





    Last edited by east or bust; 07-22-2014 at 09:05 AM.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
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    From what I can tell, the LG1+ is not designed to work with a bash guard. If you compare to the LG1+ Turbo, the rollers on the Turbo are shaped to clear a bash guard whereas the rollers on the standard + are not. The standard + comes with a taco bash instead to protect your chainring.

  3. #3
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    Ahh you're right about that. They do sell those sliders separately but at that point I would be at the same price as the lg1+ turbo.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
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    You don't have ISCG tabs on your frame so you need to mount your guide on your BB (directly or with a BB-ISCG adapter). I don't think that'll work with your BB though - you'd normally mount the guide or adapter insead of a 2.5mm drive-side spacer with an external cup BB. Your BB doesn't look like it has any spacer to remove. You might be able to jam it in but your chainline would be off and your cranks would be offset on the drive side.

    Best either to go for a new cheap BB and crank set (eg. SLX) with a LG1+ or a G3 guide (integrated taco protection). Or use your current BB, cranks and bashguard with a narrow-wide chainring and Hope's seatpost-mounted top guide but that might not be 100% reliable if you don't have a clutch derailleur.

    4 components all contribute to chain retention: thick-thin chainring, clutch mech, top guide, lower guide. 3 out of the 4 should be enough. 2 out of 4, maybe.

  5. #5
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    Thanks for the reply LC.

    Holy smokes $80 bucks for this part!



    I think I'll head over to the hardware store and see what I can scrap together. It should be relatively easy to replicate that guide, which should function like the top slider of the lg1+ with my current bash. No clutched derailleur on the bike right now but the narrow/wide chain ring looks like a must.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
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    You could just keep your front mech in place for now as a guide. Set the limit screws so that it can't move at all, maybe clamp a chopped-off piece of cable in there, then ditch the cable & shifter. It could still jump off on really rough stuff but better than nothing, and free.

  7. #7
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    I've tried just seizing the derailleur up but it hasn't worked well, especially when the chain falls to the lower cog and I can't shift it back up.

    My current idea is to get a PVC pipe roughly 1" in diameter, 5" long and cut a quarter of the pipe out. Like a quadrant. If you were looking back at the drivetrain from the front tire it would look like quadrant 1.



    Heat it up with a torch and try to bend it to match the bash guard, and seat post most it.

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