Ice Screw Question

[kb1dqh]

Titanium Ice Screw - 18 cm by Climb High

Has anyone ever used these? The threads only go half way which worries me a little, but they are half the price of other screws and it seems like threads never go all the way to the eye. They can be found on mgear.com; any ideas? Why are they so cheap? Thanks! -Jake

[Platinum Pete]

My BD express screws don't thread all the way to the end, about 2/3rd's of the way. Do these ti screws have the little express spinner knobby on them to help drive them in and out quicker/easier? That makes a substantial price difference on most ice screws I've priced.

[kb1dqh]

My BD express screws don't thread all the way to the end, about 2/3rd's of the way. Do these ti screws have the little express spinner knobby on them to help drive them in and out quicker/easier? That makes a substantial price difference on most ice screws I've priced.

No, it does not. But they are still only $12!!

P.S. ROPES: What do you all think is a good stretch for a dynamic rope- there one with a 10 percent stretch that is less money than most 6-7 percent strech ropes. I realize the pros and cons, but would anyone say 10 is a bit too much? I'm inclined to say no.

Also, I realize this should be in tech talk.

[Meathelmet]

Carefull with the titanium screws!

Most of the Ti screws are made in the russia or formerly esternblock/caucasian countries and have inferior quality..
The quality controll is totally lacking. I have personally seen two broken Ti screws. One was broken by a 4m leader fall by the end of the screw.
A other screw was tested by the crew that had fallen on it and it fractured couple of mm towards the middle.

I guess that most of unbranded Ti screws are ok, but the risk is too high imho to
save some bucks on buying such a risky equipment. Especially in iceclimbing where the falling is risky business anyway...

As for the ropes, the higher the elongation percent is, the less it puts stress on the protection (ia.energy from falling is absorbed by the rope,not the piece of protection). 10% begins to be on the higher end of the lot, but if the rope is bought to Trad/mixed/ice use, and you are expected to fall on dubious placements ( russian Ti ice screws...) then why not?

Oh... read this : http://www.alpinedave.com/rusicescrew.html

[marshalolson]

if you are buying ti screws, and think $12 is cheap, drop me a line.

i can hook you up with $12/pound of ti screws....

[kb1dqh]

if you are buying ti screws, and think $12 is cheap, drop me a line.

i can hook you up with $12/pound of ti screws....

PM Sent.

I won't be using these screws for lead climbing- not worth the risk, but they would be worth it and safe for rappelling it seems, exp. if you can't get your screw back.

Thanks for the help all.

[Sphinx]

If you want to rappel, use a vthread. No reason to use a screw.

[kb1dqh]

If you want to rappel, use a vthread. No reason to use a screw.

True; but what I'm saying is these cheap screws would be worth while for a mountaineering trip where you won't be doing any ice climbing, but may need a rappel, or an unforseen anchor. These ti screws will be fine for creating a v-thread; although I suppose a longer length would be nicer.

The main idea is to have a few of these as back-up, not to do any lead climbing or even ice climbing on them where a fall could result.

-Jake

[Meathelmet]

I guess the V-thread is the "Abalakov"?

It is allways nice to learn new terms..

And there people have gotten fucked up too. (wich i know you know since everybody is talking about it quite comfortably..).

Brrr... (shudders)

[Will]

In addition to the other questions about the screw quality I would wonder about the size of the threads. All the ti-screws I've seen have teeny-tiny threads which look like they wouldn't hold much and could melt-out really fast.

Bigger threads = more holding power

Also, for V-threads (aka Abalakov) you want to use a long screw - like 22cm. So these ti ones might not be of much help. (And bounce test that fucker!)

I understand the appeal of cheap, lightweight gear for use in anchor back-ups and retreating... but when you're retreating, and it's probably dark out with shitty weather and you're tired and hungry etc etc... Are you really going to look at that anchor and say to yourself - "well, that russian screw looks kinda sketchy, but I sure am glad I saved $40!"

(please note: the above quote applies to prostitutes as well.)

[kb1dqh]

I understand the appeal of cheap, lightweight gear for use in anchor back-ups and retreating... but when you're retreating, and it's probably dark out with shitty weather and you're tired and hungry etc etc... Are you really going to look at that anchor and say to yourself - "well, that russian screw looks kinda sketchy, but I sure am glad I saved $40!"

(please note: the above quote applies to prostitutes as well.)

True. If I'm going to need the screws I'll want them to be of some quality.

[greg]

True. If I'm going to need the screws I'll want them to be of some quality.

I made a bad experience with cheap icescrews of some french brand. I don`t know if it´s on the american market: "simond." I also took them along as a backup on a possible escape route for a skidescent. It was on a completely northern facing slope at 3500 m altitude which is never reached by the sun in midwinter. Thus it was really cold and the ice extremely brittle.

The cheap simondscrews which are under average conditions already quite hard to place wouldn´t cut into the ice. Even if I succeeded to make them grasp they simply busted the ice after a few turns leaving nothing but a huge hole and the screw in my hand.. We were finally able to work our way out with only one (still pretty cheap) BD screw and one pair of ice axes for the two of us. as you can imagine it wasn´t to much fun...especially not in the cold.

I don´t know the screws you´re talking about, but I would test them on their ice cutting abilities. I for myself am sure, that I don´t want to rely anymore on cheap safety material in situations when I possibly need it the most. Since then, I have only bought standard brand icescrews.

edit: nevermind - did a search on your screws and what I was talking about probably doesn´t apply to those. considering what i´m abseiling of from time to time those seem to me good enough. although the 300 pounds, if the figure is right, sound a little scary...