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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    JH/AK/Los Andes
    Posts
    2,678

    TR - Coast Range Quicky (Waddington etc)

    I took a quick trip to the Coast Range earlier in April with two buddies. Our main goals were to have fun, ski the Combatant Couloir, Mount Waddington and Mount Hickson. After two days of driving, an interesting boarder crossing, and numerous numb appendages we found ourselves in Bluff Lake BC under grey skies and winds. Mike and Audrey King welcomed us to White Saddle Air and told us to camp where ever we saw fit. We unloaded the Subaru and camped right on the lake.


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    by Aaron Diamond13, on Flickr


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    by Aaron Diamond13, on Flickr


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    by Aaron Diamond13, on Flickr

    After a day of more clouds and wind we got a small weather window that allowed us to fly into a col between Mount Hickson and Combatant. We set up camp and settled in as the clouds rolled onto our new home. The views were ok. We got the trip off to a proper start by mixing up vodka and water bottles to start our first pot of water. Oops. Dont worry, we didnt waste it.


    IMG_0061
    by Aaron Diamond13, on Flickr


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    by Aaron Diamond13, on Flickr

    After a night of violent winds and a 2am tent check we awoke the next morning to find out kitchen tent poles had succumbed to the wind and snapped. We set to work mining block to build bigger walls for the kitchen and sleeping tents. Stiff wind and blowing snow made the work less than enjoyable but by mid day we had walls that we felt would be able to withstand the pounding of the constant wind.


    DSC_0476
    by Aaron Diamond13, on Flickr

    Day 3 turned out to be my birthday and I got the gift of clearing skies. We tossed the rope on and headed for our smallest objective, Mount Hickson


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    by Aaron Diamond13, on Flickr


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    by Aaron Diamond13, on Flickr

    A short distance from camp we found a small south facing couloir that reached the mellow snow face in the middle of the route. We unroped and booted up to the couloir until we resumed skinning on the face. We made quick time up the west face to the base of the gully where we switched back to crampons. The gully was on the mellower side and we quickly found ourselves at the notch between the summits of Hickson and out of snow to ski.


    DSC_0488
    by Aaron Diamond13, on Flickr


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    by Aaron Diamond13, on Flickr

    The ski down was a mix of dense pow, rime crust, and chalk.


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    by Aaron Diamond13, on Flickr


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    by Aaron Diamond13, on Flickr


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    by Aaron Diamond13, on Flickr


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    by Aaron Diamond13, on Flickr

    The rest of the day we went and checked out our route to the Combatant Col, and hung out in the sun.


    IMG_0192
    by Aaron Diamond13, on Flickr

    Our goal for the next day was to ski the Combatant Couloir so the birthday celebrations were pretty mellow and we hit the sack early.

    We woke to another clear and calm day and headed towards the backdoor couloir that led to the basin below the col. From the base of the couloir we scurried under and serac and up the headwall to the col.


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    by Aaron Diamond13, on Flickr

    Unfortunetly after gaining the col and the couloir came into view our spirits were dashed. At least half of the couloir was wall to wall alpine ice. No way to sneak in a descent that would be worth it so we climbed up to the ice and made a couple turns in the bottom of the couloir.


    IMG_0165
    by Aaron Diamond13, on Flickr


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    by Aaron Diamond13, on Flickr

    The headwall skied well on the way back to camp.


    DSC_0543
    by Aaron Diamond13, on Flickr

    The Firey route was the plan for day 5 and we were out of camp at a relaxed 745.


    IMG_0124
    by Aaron Diamond13, on Flickr
    "The idea wasnt for me, that I would be the only one that would ever do this. My idea was that everybody should be doing this. At the time nobody was, but this was something thats too much fun to pass up." -Briggs
    Quote Originally Posted by LeeLau View Post
    Wear your climbing harness. Attach a big anodized locker to your belay loop so its in prime position to hit your nuts. Double russian Ti icescrews on your side loops positioned for maximal anal rape when you sit down. Then everyone will know your radness
    More stoke, less shit.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    JH/AK/Los Andes
    Posts
    2,678
    Down the backdoor couloir, up the headwall and onto the col before a quick break to stuff our face full of gummies and get ready for the sprint under the huge serac that threatens the bottom of the Firey route. As we crossed under the serac it actively calved and the debris came up short of our track. Whew! After crossing "shit your pant shelf" we found ourselfs below a broken section of glacier guarding the main Angel Glacier route.


    DSC_0547
    by Aaron Diamond13, on Flickr


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    by Aaron Diamond13, on Flickr

    Some zig-zagging booting and skinning brought us onto the mellow slopes of the glacier and on the fast rack to the summit.


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    by Aaron Diamond13, on Flickr

    We crossed some well bridged crevasses (and one not so well bridged one) before reaching an big overhanging crevasse below the terrace. After testing a couple of the bridges and coming up empty I tried to get creative by aiding off a ski pole plunged into the snow on the other side. That resulted in a snapped pole and a change of strategy. I began to shovel a tunnel/ramp into the uphill snow and 20 minutes later we were across the crevasse booting towards the summit.


    DSC_0548
    by Aaron Diamond13, on Flickr

    The true NW summit was covered in blue ice so we settled for the slightly shorter and mellower false summit.


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    by Aaron Diamond13, on Flickr

    The views didn't disappoint.


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    by Aaron Diamond13, on Flickr


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    by Aaron Diamond13, on Flickr


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    by Aaron Diamond13, on Flickr

    Aside from a couple hops over crevasses the skiing was mellow and enjoyable with amazing scenery.


    IMG_0238
    by Aaron Diamond13, on Flickr


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    by Aaron Diamond13, on Flickr


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    by Aaron Diamond13, on Flickr


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    by Aaron Diamond13, on Flickr


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    by Aaron Diamond13, on Flickr


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    by Aaron Diamond13, on Flickr


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    by Aaron Diamond13, on Flickr


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    by Aaron Diamond13, on Flickr


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    by Aaron Diamond13, on Flickr


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    by Aaron Diamond13, on Flickr

    The clouds, winds, and snow moved in for day 6. Shoveling, sleeping, eating, reading, card games, repeat.

    The storm mellowed out a bit for day 7 and after a big breakfast of bacon and pancakes we headed out to link up some alpine ice climbing above camp with couloir mini-golf off the other side.


    IMGP3341
    by Aaron Diamond13, on Flickr

    Although the ice was mellow (as far as ice goes) It was still steep enough to keep you focused and the snow/spindrift gave the climb a real alpine feel. 3 pitches later we were at the top of the couloir.


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    by Aaron Diamond13, on Flickr

    A quick down climb (Just for you Lee!)


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    by Aaron Diamond13, on Flickr

    and we were in. The couloir had gotten some sun the previous days and was quite chundery, but chundery skiing is way better than being tent-bound.


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    by Aaron Diamond13, on Flickr

    The next two days the storm moved back in and dumped a couple meters of snow on camp and we resumed a schedule of of shoveling, eating, sleeping, and staying entertained.

    The storm broke for a brief window on the morning of day 10 and we called Mike for a pickup. An hour later the 407 was setting down and headed for home.


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    by Aaron Diamond13, on Flickr


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    by Aaron Diamond13, on Flickr

    We crashed and Mike's brother Dave and wife Lori's Bed and Breakfast just down the road. Great people, Great accommodations, and great food.
    "The idea wasnt for me, that I would be the only one that would ever do this. My idea was that everybody should be doing this. At the time nobody was, but this was something thats too much fun to pass up." -Briggs
    Quote Originally Posted by LeeLau View Post
    Wear your climbing harness. Attach a big anodized locker to your belay loop so its in prime position to hit your nuts. Double russian Ti icescrews on your side loops positioned for maximal anal rape when you sit down. Then everyone will know your radness
    More stoke, less shit.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    [a] Van [down by the river]
    Posts
    1,511
    Sick sick sick.

    Some nice shots in there.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    North Vancouver/Whistler
    Posts
    13,985
    Thanks for the gratuitous climbing shots Aaron.

    I swear more and more over time that place becomes less a skiing area and more a pure mountaineering area. The glaciers are so much more broken and the ice so much more exposed than even say a decade ago

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Golden, BC
    Posts
    1,356
    Very nice. Do you think you were there too early in the season for the snow to start sticking?

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Between a rock and a soft place. Aberdare and The Brecon Beacons, Wales
    Posts
    3,208
    Wow. Just wow.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Innsbruck, Austria
    Posts
    725
    Full on Sickbird TR!!

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Not Brooklyn
    Posts
    8,319
    Great stuff. Thanks.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    [a] Van [down by the river]
    Posts
    1,511
    Quote Originally Posted by LeeLau View Post
    I swear more and more over time that place becomes less a skiing area and more a pure mountaineering area. The glaciers are so much more broken and the ice so much more exposed than even say a decade ago
    Skiing is sooooo 2000's Lee

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Chamonix
    Posts
    625
    That looks absolutely awesome, great report. Thanks for sharing dude!
    Short stories about snow and rock, and pictures, too

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Boston
    Posts
    1,445
    Great TR. Mouthwatering photos. Nice work!!!!

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Posts
    1,572
    Impressive, way to get after it. Not that I would expect any different.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    in a van down by the river
    Posts
    2,769
    Fuckin rad TR!
    I don't work and I don't save, desperate women pay my way.

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    out there on the neon avenue
    Posts
    4,030
    Yet again amazing stuff Aaron

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    JH/AK/Los Andes
    Posts
    2,678
    Quote Originally Posted by angrysasquatch View Post
    Very nice. Do you think you were there too early in the season for the snow to start sticking?
    We might have been a bit early (maybe late April or may would be better) but I think that the area was also in quite a drought. The stream running through the Kings property was dry as a bone... for the first time in 30 plus years.



    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I847 using TGR Forums
    "The idea wasnt for me, that I would be the only one that would ever do this. My idea was that everybody should be doing this. At the time nobody was, but this was something thats too much fun to pass up." -Briggs
    Quote Originally Posted by LeeLau View Post
    Wear your climbing harness. Attach a big anodized locker to your belay loop so its in prime position to hit your nuts. Double russian Ti icescrews on your side loops positioned for maximal anal rape when you sit down. Then everyone will know your radness
    More stoke, less shit.

  16. #16
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    SLC
    Posts
    2,578
    Nice, glad you got some good days in between the storms. The storm days fade, the good days are remembered.

  17. #17
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    Pemberton, BC
    Posts
    2,228
    Awesome TR. Makes me want to get my mountaineering act together and hit this zone up. Friends without excuses would be good too.

  18. #18
    Join Date
    Mar 2014
    Location
    It's Full of Stars....
    Posts
    4,850
    Absolutely wicked.

  19. #19
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    Vancouver BC
    Posts
    3,267
    Beautiful pics of amazing terrain, thanks for sharing dudes.

  20. #20
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Tahoe
    Posts
    1,095
    F'in rad. Well done.

  21. #21
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    JH/AK/Los Andes
    Posts
    2,678
    Quote Originally Posted by xyz View Post
    Friends without excuses would be good too.
    I hear ya. This trip was supposed to be four people until a couple weeks before we left. I'm always looking for good reliable partners. If you find yourself in Jackson during the winter look me up.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I847 using TGR Forums
    "The idea wasnt for me, that I would be the only one that would ever do this. My idea was that everybody should be doing this. At the time nobody was, but this was something thats too much fun to pass up." -Briggs
    Quote Originally Posted by LeeLau View Post
    Wear your climbing harness. Attach a big anodized locker to your belay loop so its in prime position to hit your nuts. Double russian Ti icescrews on your side loops positioned for maximal anal rape when you sit down. Then everyone will know your radness
    More stoke, less shit.

  22. #22
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    denver
    Posts
    1,863
    I have a pano from that area hanging on my wall. These pics make it look even more beautiful. Nicely done.
    I can't believe you are a rando racer because I look so much better in Lycra than you.

    People who don't think the Earth is flat haven't skied Vail.

  23. #23
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    JH/AK/Los Andes
    Posts
    2,678
    Quote Originally Posted by adimmen View Post
    I have a pano from that area hanging on my wall. These pics make it look even more beautiful. Nicely done.
    Missed ya out there dude!

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I847 using TGR Forums
    "The idea wasnt for me, that I would be the only one that would ever do this. My idea was that everybody should be doing this. At the time nobody was, but this was something thats too much fun to pass up." -Briggs
    Quote Originally Posted by LeeLau View Post
    Wear your climbing harness. Attach a big anodized locker to your belay loop so its in prime position to hit your nuts. Double russian Ti icescrews on your side loops positioned for maximal anal rape when you sit down. Then everyone will know your radness
    More stoke, less shit.

  24. #24
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    Couloirfornia
    Posts
    8,871
    So fantastic.
    Quote Originally Posted by Ernest_Hemingway View Post
    I realize there is not much hope for a bullfighting forum. I understand that most of you would prefer to discuss the ingredients of jacket fabrics than the ingredients of a brave man. I know nothing of the former. But the latter is made of courage, and skill, and grace in the presence of the possibility of death. If someone could make a jacket of those three things it would no doubt be the most popular and prized item in all of your closets.

  25. #25
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Boulder
    Posts
    850
    one of these days....

    Solid work bud!

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