40t upgrade. Yay or nay on 16t as well?

[Co-opski]

Can you not put a 30t ring on your crankset? 30t x 11-36 gets you exactly the same gearing range, without having to buy a 42t cog or make that shift.

I'm not a dentist but I do like to piss $ on fun nice looking things. The red GC went with the red bike.

[smslavin]

I just ordered the OneUp 40 + 16 combo and it should be here in the next day or two. We'll see how it goes.

[jamesp]

How much weight are you expecting to drop going tubeless?

I go back and forth about this in my head all the time. I've been running regular tubes at about 23 - 25 psi with no issues as far as pinch flats or anything. so I don't think going tubeless to get down to 20 psi would ride all that different. For that, I don't think it would be worth the mess and hassle. But if there is a weight loss of 0.5 pound to 0.75 pound of rotating weight, I wouldn't mind giving it a go. What are your thoughts?

continuing the thread drift. I've changed both wheels to tubeless now, I lost 560g (1.2lbs) off the wheels. I guess it should make a difference, only 1 ride so far.

[stuckathuntermtn]

Well, after futzing with the aftermarket 38 and 24/24 for a few rides this spring, I said screw it and am going back to 22/36 as long as I am tied into 2x10.

Crisper shifting, basically the same gear ratio, and no crappy 13-18 cog nonsense.
I usually go back to 24 front by July.

Gonna sit it out for another season until the 'right' 11 x1 comes along for me.

Hey you gear inch nerds, what 11x1 solution has the same low end as 22 (24?)/36? 28/42?
I can't figure it all out.

Glad to hear that's not just me. There's definitely some more drag over 24/38, but with a 29er it feels really good. I'm not talking about gear inches or anything like that. It just feels more like the right gearing. Although, 22/11 and the chain almost touches itself.

[creaky fossil]

Glad to hear that's not just me. There's definitely some more drag over 24/38, but with a 29er it feels really good. I'm not talking about gear inches or anything like that. It just feels more like the right gearing. Although, 22/11 and the chain almost touches itself.

I'm sure your many years of cycling have given you refined sense on "feel."

Like when you swore the Ardent was really slow-rolling. It just "felt" slow as shit.

"Buy the red ones!" says Stuckie. This makes him a Core RadGnar BroBrah TGR insider. Thus, when he lies about his cycling knowledge/experience, people don't realize he's lying!

[pogs4ever]

eh, not much to add, i have 1x10 36t with 11-42 (wolftooth). kind of a little whacky to setup but not hard by any means, had to push the b-screw almost all the way in, i thought the WT came with an extra-long b-screw but mine didnt.

as others said, i notice the gear jump from 13-18 on the road but that's about it. but my riding preferences usually only biggest 2 or 3 rings on the climb and bottom 2 or 3 rings on the descent. i dont really do many up and downs so i am not spazzing through gears that much. for the terrain i ride 90% of the time, a wider range is what i wanted. it's been great (maybe a dozen rides), i have been geeking out on heart rate training lately, and the 42T has been helpful to keep my heart rate lower.

[jm2e]

Anybody using a 12t lock ring and dropping their 11t cog, thus keeping the original cassette just the way God intended for it to be?

edit, what I'm getting at is, where do you obtain said 12t/13t first position cog and do you need a bigger lockring to hold it on?

[gravitylover]

Ah hell it's all a waste of time. I cleaned climbs today that I've never cleaned before. Shit was steep but I beat it down with my 2x10. I'm just a fkn monster

eh, I'm just cheap but I did pull some awesome shit today

[stuckathuntermtn]

Anybody using a 12t lock ring and dropping their 11t cog, thus keeping the original cassette just the way God intended for it to be?

edit, what I'm getting at is, where do you obtain said 12t/13t first position cog and do you need a bigger lockring to hold it on?

Gotta wonder why that isn't the case more often. Taking out a middle gear seems stupid.

[jamal]

Because that would defeat the whole purpose of going to a 42t cog. The point is so that you have an 11-42 cassette and only lose a little bit of range compared to 2x10.

If you're willing to lose the 11 or 12t then there's no reason to even bother with a 40/42 because you can just put on a smaller front ring. No point in a 40t IMO either- the jump from 36-42 is already a smaller percentage than the 32-36 shift.

[iscariot]

Because that would defeat the whole purpose of going to a 42t cog. The point is so that you have an 11-42 cassette and only lose a little bit of range compared to 2x10.

If you're willing to lose the 11 or 12t then there's no reason to even bother with a 40/42 because you can just put on a smaller front ring. No point in a 40t IMO either- the jump from 36-42 is already a smaller percentage than the 32-36 shift.

This. All of it. Well put.

[toast2266]

Because that would defeat the whole purpose of going to a 42t cog. The point is so that you have an 11-42 cassette and only lose a little bit of range compared to 2x10.

If you're willing to lose the 11 or 12t then there's no reason to even bother with a 40/42 because you can just put on a smaller front ring. No point in a 40t IMO either- the jump from 36-42 is already a smaller percentage than the 32-36 shift.

But have you considered the fact that wolftooth cogs come in red? Because red is faster than silver. Fact.

[iscariot]

But have you considered the fact that wolftooth cogs come in red? Because red is faster than silver. Fact.

Yah but the green OneUp is enduro.

[jamal]

But have you considered the fact that wolftooth cogs come in red? Because red is faster than silver. Fact.

Red doesn't match my bike. Blue, however...

[cptpowder]

So I converted my setup (2013 Santa Cruz Tallboy LTc) to 1 X 10. Went with a 30 T race face NW front ring and the OneUp 40 T rear on an xt cassette with xt derailleur. I tried adding the 16 cog and removing the 15 and 17 cogs. No dice. I just couldn't get the tension right to shift in that gear and be smooth in other gears. Screwed with that thing for two hours replacing cables and adjusting and re adjusting. It just wouldn't work. Ended up just not using the 16 cog it came with and removed the 17 cog. Rear cassette is now 11-13-15-19-21-24-28-32-36-40. Got one ride in and it was working great. Loved it. Nice weight saving and cleans up the bike nicely.

[smslavin]

So I converted my setup (2013 Santa Cruz Tallboy LTc) to 1 X 10. Went with a 30 T race face NW front ring and the OneUp 40 T rear. I tried adding the 16 cog and removing the 15 and 17 cogs. No dice. I just couldn't get the tension right to shift in that gear and be smooth in other gears. Screwed with that thing for two hours replacing cables and adjusting and re adjusting. It just wouldn't work. Ended up just not using the 16 cog it came with and removed the 17 cog. Rear cassette is now 11-13-15-19-21-24-28-32-36-40. Got one ride in and it was working great. Loved it. Nice weight saving and cleans up the bike nicely.

I think I'm running into the same issue. Coming down the cassette, the chain skips the 16 completely. Going up, it gets on but sounds super chunky from the 16 all the way up to the 32. 32, 36 and 40 run quiet and smooth. I didn't put too much time into it yesterday but I'm going to play with it a bit more this afternoon.

I am using a Saint in FR mode but a quick perusal on the Facebooks shows people using it, or the Zee, with the OneUp as well as the twenty6 cogs.

[D(C)]

I tried adding the 16 cog and removing the 15 and 17 cogs. No dice. I just couldn't get the tension right to shift in that gear and be smooth in other gears. Screwed with that thing for two hours replacing cables and adjusting and re adjusting. It just wouldn't work. Ended up just not using the 16 cog it came with and removed the 17 cog.

I just installed my 16t cog on a Shimano XT 11-36 cassette with XTR Shadow Plus. At first, I was having difficulty getting the shifting smooth. I played around with the cog's clocking to see if it worked better in the SRAM configuration but ended up sticking with the suggested Shimano alignment. It still wasn't great, especially the upshift from 16-19.

Then I installed a new chain I had been meaning to install. The shifting is much crisper. It's still not as good as it was with 17-19 but it is now acceptable. I suppose that's to be expected with a bigger jump and a cranked b-screw.

So maybe your chain is worn out.

Edit: I spoke too soon. I'm out for my first ride with the 16t and it skips under load. I did a google search and this seems to be a common issue. Not good.

[jm2e]

Are the 16t cogs working better with SRAM or Shimano cassettes, or do they suck with both?

[iscariot]

Did the swap on my Slayer70 today. Went 1x10 with the OneUp 42 tooth, and RaceFace NextSL with a 30 tooth NarrowWide direct mount (also have a 32 NW direct just in case). Used the 16 tooth the OneUp included. Might switch it out with a Shimano 16 if the OneUp 16 sucks. Maxed out the B tension, but didn't even really have to adjust the rear shifting at all. Pretty seamless so far.

Also got my Fatboy the other day. Holy fuck is that fun.

[jamal]

What derailleur/shifter?

[smslavin]

Might switch it out with a Shimano 16 if the OneUp 16 sucks.

where did you find a shimano 16? only one i came across after a brief look was in the UK at rose bikes...

[iscariot]

where did you find a shimano 16? only one i came across after a brief look was in the UK at rose bikes...

My shop's bin of random used parts. Every shop has one somewhere in the basement near the mechanics.

[rideit]

Slightly OT, but I am behind the times with cassette orientation these days.
When the cassette isn't 'keyed', ( with one obvious wider spline) how can you tell when it is on correctly?
This confused me most recently with a SRAM cassette, I couldn't tell if/how all of the spiders were lined up correctly.
Is there a good pictorial out there?

[cptpowder]

[QUOTE=D(C);4247571

So maybe your chain is worn out.

Edit: I spoke too soon. I'm out for my first ride with the 16t and it skips under load. I did a google search and this seems to be a common issue. Not good.[/QUOTE]

Yeah all of the drivetrain is brand new.

[mntlion]

Slightly OT, but I am behind the times with cassette orientation these days.
When the cassette isn't 'keyed', ( with one obvious wider spline) how can you tell when it is on correctly?
This confused me most recently with a SRAM cassette, I couldn't tell if/how all of the spiders were lined up correctly.
Is there a good pictorial out there?

most of the rings will have the tooth count on them, line up the numbers.