I just ordered the OneUp 40 + 16 combo and it should be here in the next day or two. We'll see how it goes.
I'm sure your many years of cycling have given you refined sense on "feel."
Like when you swore the Ardent was really slow-rolling. It just "felt" slow as shit.
"Buy the red ones!" says Stuckie. This makes him a Core RadGnar BroBrah TGR insider. Thus, when he lies about his cycling knowledge/experience, people don't realize he's lying!
eh, not much to add, i have 1x10 36t with 11-42 (wolftooth). kind of a little whacky to setup but not hard by any means, had to push the b-screw almost all the way in, i thought the WT came with an extra-long b-screw but mine didnt.
as others said, i notice the gear jump from 13-18 on the road but that's about it. but my riding preferences usually only biggest 2 or 3 rings on the climb and bottom 2 or 3 rings on the descent. i dont really do many up and downs so i am not spazzing through gears that much. for the terrain i ride 90% of the time, a wider range is what i wanted. it's been great (maybe a dozen rides), i have been geeking out on heart rate training lately, and the 42T has been helpful to keep my heart rate lower.
Anybody using a 12t lock ring and dropping their 11t cog, thus keeping the original cassette just the way God intended for it to be?
edit, what I'm getting at is, where do you obtain said 12t/13t first position cog and do you need a bigger lockring to hold it on?
Last edited by jm2e; 05-06-2014 at 11:37 AM.
Ah hell it's all a waste of time. I cleaned climbs today that I've never cleaned before. Shit was steep but I beat it down with my 2x10. I'm just a fkn monster
eh, I'm just cheap but I did pull some awesome shit today
Because that would defeat the whole purpose of going to a 42t cog. The point is so that you have an 11-42 cassette and only lose a little bit of range compared to 2x10.
If you're willing to lose the 11 or 12t then there's no reason to even bother with a 40/42 because you can just put on a smaller front ring. No point in a 40t IMO either- the jump from 36-42 is already a smaller percentage than the 32-36 shift.
So I converted my setup (2013 Santa Cruz Tallboy LTc) to 1 X 10. Went with a 30 T race face NW front ring and the OneUp 40 T rear on an xt cassette with xt derailleur. I tried adding the 16 cog and removing the 15 and 17 cogs. No dice. I just couldn't get the tension right to shift in that gear and be smooth in other gears. Screwed with that thing for two hours replacing cables and adjusting and re adjusting. It just wouldn't work. Ended up just not using the 16 cog it came with and removed the 17 cog. Rear cassette is now 11-13-15-19-21-24-28-32-36-40. Got one ride in and it was working great. Loved it. Nice weight saving and cleans up the bike nicely.
Last edited by cptpowder; 05-12-2014 at 07:43 AM.
I think I'm running into the same issue. Coming down the cassette, the chain skips the 16 completely. Going up, it gets on but sounds super chunky from the 16 all the way up to the 32. 32, 36 and 40 run quiet and smooth. I didn't put too much time into it yesterday but I'm going to play with it a bit more this afternoon.
I am using a Saint in FR mode but a quick perusal on the Facebooks shows people using it, or the Zee, with the OneUp as well as the twenty6 cogs.
I just installed my 16t cog on a Shimano XT 11-36 cassette with XTR Shadow Plus. At first, I was having difficulty getting the shifting smooth. I played around with the cog's clocking to see if it worked better in the SRAM configuration but ended up sticking with the suggested Shimano alignment. It still wasn't great, especially the upshift from 16-19.
Then I installed a new chain I had been meaning to install. The shifting is much crisper. It's still not as good as it was with 17-19 but it is now acceptable. I suppose that's to be expected with a bigger jump and a cranked b-screw.
So maybe your chain is worn out.
Edit: I spoke too soon. I'm out for my first ride with the 16t and it skips under load. I did a google search and this seems to be a common issue. Not good.
Last edited by D(C); 05-11-2014 at 03:03 PM.
Are the 16t cogs working better with SRAM or Shimano cassettes, or do they suck with both?
However many are in a shit ton.
Did the swap on my Slayer70 today. Went 1x10 with the OneUp 42 tooth, and RaceFace NextSL with a 30 tooth NarrowWide direct mount (also have a 32 NW direct just in case). Used the 16 tooth the OneUp included. Might switch it out with a Shimano 16 if the OneUp 16 sucks. Maxed out the B tension, but didn't even really have to adjust the rear shifting at all. Pretty seamless so far.
Also got my Fatboy the other day. Holy fuck is that fun.
What derailleur/shifter?
where did you find a shimano 16? only one i came across after a brief look was in the UK at rose bikes...
Slightly OT, but I am behind the times with cassette orientation these days.
When the cassette isn't 'keyed', ( with one obvious wider spline) how can you tell when it is on correctly?
This confused me most recently with a SRAM cassette, I couldn't tell if/how all of the spiders were lined up correctly.
Is there a good pictorial out there?
Forum Cross Pollinator, gratuitously strident
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