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  1. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by N1CK. View Post
    ^^^ 12-38? ... who makes that?.
    Aftermarket 38t on a XT 12-36. With the 16t cog.
    Forum Cross Pollinator, gratuitously strident

  2. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by rideit View Post
    Aftermarket 38t on a XT 12-36. With the 16t cog.
    Are you using one of the 38t cogs from ebay or do you have another source? I've heard the ebay cogs are prone to bending and have held off as a result.

  3. #28
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    Yes, ebay one. I got him to warranty one right away, the second has held up under 20 rides or so.
    I wouldn't recommend them, but it is an option.
    The 42's bend easier than the 38's.
    Forum Cross Pollinator, gratuitously strident

  4. #29
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    Anyone know where to find a 32 front ring? Currently running xt cranks with 26/38 front (i think). Looking to go 1 x with a 32 front and the 11/40 rear (or 13/40 rear. not sure yet on that either. I think id rather have the smooth progression versus less prone to spinning on flats?). Does the 32 front have to be 10 spd specific? Most 32 rings say 9 spd in the specs.
    Last edited by cptpowder; 04-27-2014 at 08:46 PM.
    Quote Originally Posted by splat View Post
    We don't make those skis specifically for Andy, but we make them specifically for kick-ass skiers like Andy who use them in freeride comps and the everyday comp where they compete against themselves.

  5. #30
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    Just ordered the Oneup 42 for my Slayer.

    Currently running the stock 2x10 at 36t+24t by 11x36.

    Gonna try out 1 x 10 at 30t by 11x42. (Canadian Rockies riding with trips to the Koots, Okanagan, and Whistler).

    Adds 1 gear inch on the climb (0.5 km/h @ 90 cadence) and loses about 14.5 inches off the descend (6 km/h @ 90 cadence). The top end is a concern, as I like to go fast on the downs throwing down pedal strokes, rather than just coast through descents.

    If I don't like it I'll go back to my original set up.

    I post my results.


    DUUUUUUUUDE!!! ITS GONNA BE SOOOOOOOO ENDURO!!!!!!!
    Last edited by iscariot; 04-27-2014 at 09:07 PM.
    Quote Originally Posted by Socialist View Post
    They have socalized healthcare up in canada. The whole country is 100% full of pot smoking pro-athlete alcoholics.

  6. #31
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    I'll be curious to hear how the 1x goes riding Canmore-esp trails. I'm tempted but I'm weak & use my granny quite a bit, also don't want to have to get a new crank. In the process of swapping to tubeless which is the extent of my weight savings.

    What rear shock are you running on your Slayer? Curious about other options, the Float that came on mine feels like poo now, kinda wallows, & a firmer pedal platform would be nice for the peddally days.

  7. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by jamesp View Post
    I'll be curious to hear how the 1x goes riding Canmore-esp trails. I'm tempted but I'm weak & use my granny quite a bit, also don't want to have to get a new crank. In the process of swapping to tubeless which is the extent of my weight savings.

    What rear shock are you running on your Slayer? Curious about other options, the Float that came on mine feels like poo now, kinda wallows, & a firmer pedal platform would be nice for the peddally days.
    Yah. Earning turns in Canmore, Moose, K-Country, Golden, and Revy will be interesting. I spend a lot of time in Golden and Revy and also spend some time in Vernon/Kamloops. Usually do a couple trips to Rossland/Nelson and try to get out to Whistler every other year. So that should be a good test of things.

    I'm running the Monarch Plus RC3, works very well. Feels like a coil on the down. Climbs well on the up; the different compression settings (C3 lever) for the up are not a lock out. Instead it stiffens up nicely and still allows the rear to track the ground for grip. I've heard others say it performs like a less expensive, lighter weight CCDB-AirCS when the Monarch Plus RC3 set up right. I don't personally have time on the CCDB-AirCS though.

    Running Next SL with direct mount, carbon bar and other bits, and going tubless. Should be at about 28 pounds when done, which is a 10% weight loss...like when I take a dump.

    Was thinking about dropping the Lyric RC2 DH for the Pike, for more weight loss, but I think it'd lose a lot in the bike parks. Waiting on the Lyric with the Charger and 20mm axle. The charger damper replaces a whole leg of oil, so I think that conversion alone could save about half a pound.


    After being pretty traditional about what I ran (all coil FOX, MaXXis DHF DHR, SAINT cranks, MAVIC 721's or 823s to Hope Pro 2's) for a lot of years, I'm basically saying fuck it, changing it up pretty drastically, and seeing what I can get away with.


    Quote Originally Posted by jamesp View Post
    In the process of swapping to tubeless which is the extent of my weight savings.
    How much weight are you expecting to drop going tubeless?

    I go back and forth about this in my head all the time. I've been running regular tubes at about 23 - 25 psi with no issues as far as pinch flats or anything. so I don't think going tubeless to get down to 20 psi would ride all that different. For that, I don't think it would be worth the mess and hassle. But if there is a weight loss of 0.5 pound to 0.75 pound of rotating weight, I wouldn't mind giving it a go. What are your thoughts?
    Last edited by iscariot; 04-27-2014 at 09:37 PM.
    Quote Originally Posted by Socialist View Post
    They have socalized healthcare up in canada. The whole country is 100% full of pot smoking pro-athlete alcoholics.

  8. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by iscariot View Post

    How much weight are you expecting to drop going tubeless?
    no idea, haven't geeked out on it to be honest, Slayer is never going to be a XC weapon . I don't have many problems with pinch flats but I do have a DH tube in the back. Just thought I'd try tubeless as my rims are 'tubeless ready' & it seemed easy enough to get a roll of gorilla tape & some sealant & see what its all about. I did the front this afternoon, soapy water & seemed to go on & seat easily, will see if it holds air overnight.

    edit re 1x, I don't care so much about loosing top end, but am worried about bottom end. A buddy here just got a new rig with Sram 1x11 & says it feels that he lost 1 easy gear & 3 hard gears. I'll have to try his bike sometime, but its too small for me so will feel a bit shit anyway.

  9. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by jamesp View Post
    no idea, haven't geeked out on it to be honest, Slayer is never going to be a XC weapon . I don't have many problems with pinch flats but I do have a DH tube in the back. Just thought I'd try tubeless as my rims are 'tubeless ready' & it seemed easy enough to get a roll of gorilla tape & some sealant & see what its all about. I did the front this afternoon, soapy water & seemed to go on & seat easily, will see if it holds air overnight.
    Yah i was thinking of doing it just to see.

    Quote Originally Posted by jamesp View Post
    edit re 1x, I don't care so much about loosing top end, but am worried about bottom end. A buddy here just got a new rig with Sram 1x11 & says it feels that he lost 1 easy gear & 3 hard gears. I'll have to try his bike sometime, but its too small for me so will feel a bit shit anyway.
    I'm getting confused about the use of top end vs. bottom end with regard to gears.

    Basically, with the 1x10 I described I lose one easy pedaling gear for ascending (no big deal), and a bunch of hard pedaling gears for descending (a big deal to me). I'm not worried about the climb with this conversion. I am worried about spinning out on descents very easily. But I think if I took more gears off the easy ascending, so that I could add gears to the descent, I think I'd have trouble climbing in the terrain that I regularly ride.
    Quote Originally Posted by Socialist View Post
    They have socalized healthcare up in canada. The whole country is 100% full of pot smoking pro-athlete alcoholics.

  10. #35
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    I took a Turner Czar 29er with 1x11 to the Rockies. I can just barely make the Jumpingpound climb to the ridgeline in the 30t front ring with 42 rear. Can barely make the first half of the climb to Cox Hill and then spin out on rocks on the second half. Barely make the Powderface Ridge climb.

    It's a decent gear for the climb via Baldy to Razors Edge which is a more mellow climb.

    I had enough gearing for Elbow loop spinning back along the roads to the trailhead going counter clockwise.

    So if you value making the climb and value having enough gearing to take you thru multiple days (we rode 6 days in a row) then that's a reasonable gear combo. Of course if you're just weekend warrioring, consider a long ride to be 3 hours and you have enough desk time to recover - which seems to describe most of TGR then get a bigger middle ring.

  11. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by LeeLau View Post
    I took a Turner Czar 29er with 1x11 to the Rockies. I can just barely make the Jumpingpound climb to the ridgeline in the 30t front ring with 42 rear. Can barely make the first half of the climb to Cox Hill and then spin out on rocks on the second half. Barely make the Powderface Ridge climb.

    It's a decent gear for the climb via Baldy to Razors Edge which is a more mellow climb.

    I had enough gearing for Elbow loop spinning back along the roads to the trailhead going counter clockwise.

    So if you value making the climb and value having enough gearing to take you thru multiple days (we rode 6 days in a row) then that's a reasonable gear combo. Of course if you're just weekend warrioring, consider a long ride to be 3 hours and you have enough desk time to recover - which seems to describe most of TGR then get a bigger middle ring.
    Thanks for the good info.

    I'm guessing the climbing capabilities of the 29er will mean that I'm out of luck on the same climbs with the same gears but a 26" wheel...although, I'm only out 1 gear inch on the climbing side, so if I don't make it with the 30x42 oneup, I likely wouldn't make it with the 24x36 combo either.

    Maybe I'll have to buy and Instinct as a backup ride. LOL.
    Last edited by iscariot; 04-27-2014 at 11:41 PM.
    Quote Originally Posted by Socialist View Post
    They have socalized healthcare up in canada. The whole country is 100% full of pot smoking pro-athlete alcoholics.

  12. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by iscariot View Post
    Thanks for the good info.

    I'm guessing the climbing capabilities of the 29er will mean that I'm out of luck on the same climbs with the same gears but a 26" wheel...although, I'm only out 1 gear inch on the climbing side, so if I don't make it with the 30x42 oneup, I likely wouldn't make it with the 24x36 combo either.

    Maybe I'll have to buy and Instinct as a backup ride. LOL.
    It's a bit more gear inches with the 29er than the 26er but the 29er is a light bike so it's hard to compare. Gear for gear I'd guess it'd be a 32t ring with 42 in the back for similar wheel travel? I've ridden a 650b thingy with 1x11 and the 32t front ring with 42t rear feels like it's about the same as the 30x42 for the 29er. Some gear nerds will do the numbers I'm sure

  13. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by LeeLau View Post
    It's a bit more gear inches with the 29er than the 26er but the 29er is a light bike so it's hard to compare. Gear for gear I'd guess it'd be a 32t ring with 42 in the back for similar wheel travel? I've ridden a 650b thingy with 1x11 and the 32t front ring with 42t rear feels like it's about the same as the 30x42 for the 29er. Some gear nerds will do the numbers I'm sure
    No. That's clearly incorrect and I will have to buy an Instinct.

    Seriously though. I know there are going to be compromises with trying to have one bike to do it all. I'm actually pretty okay with that.

    I did it all through the 90's and had a shit tonne of fun on one high end bike. Jumps, stunts, urban, free ride, xc, powderface climbs and TDub descents.

    Just tired of 5 different bikes.
    Quote Originally Posted by Socialist View Post
    They have socalized healthcare up in canada. The whole country is 100% full of pot smoking pro-athlete alcoholics.

  14. #39
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    Yeah 30x42 on a 29er is almost exactly the same as 32x42 with 650b.

    I keep going back and forth on 1x10 and which ring to use. I want to say I could handle a 32t front ring on my 29er but why make things harder than they need to be?

  15. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by iscariot View Post
    Thanks for the good info.

    I'm guessing the climbing capabilities of the 29er will mean that I'm out of luck on the same climbs with the same gears but a 26" wheel...although, I'm only out 1 gear inch on the climbing side, so if I don't make it with the 30x42 oneup, I likely wouldn't make it with the 24x36 combo either.

    Maybe I'll have to buy and Instinct as a backup ride. LOL.
    Or it could mean a 40 t would work on the back? But I guess 30 x 11-42 gives more range.

    top/bottom easy/hard confusion was my fault, got it backwards.

    Edit: its promising to hear it works for the Jumpingpound climb, that's as long & steep as anything I ride.
    Last edited by jamesp; 04-28-2014 at 08:16 AM.

  16. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by jamesp View Post
    Or it could mean a 40 t would work on the back? But I guess 30 x 11-42 gives more range.

    top/bottom easy/hard confusion was my fault, got it backwards.

    Edit: its promising to hear it works for the Jumpingpound climb, that's as long & steep as anything I ride.
    I wanted to try to get away from the old e-penis hardman show that invariably pops up ie I can ride a 40t ring with a STX-RC 11-32 cassette anyway so you should HTFU and do it my way hear me roar bullshit

    My perspective is from someone who wants to make those tougher climbs. Keep in mind my experience is just with 1x11. I've not tried the 42t bail out cassette conversions yet for 1x10. I'm on a queue to review the Hope and Evil 40t cassette conversions; the appeal being that they purportedly don't have sloppy shifts and purportedly don't need to mess around with derailleur hacking (ie shims to correct chainline, B-tension screw replacements). But the review won't happen till later

  17. #42
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    oops I meant that given the 42t worked for the 29 wheel you rode, presumably a 40t should work for a 26 wheel, assuming its about the same gearing.

    Do I have this right? 30x42 on a 29 should be about the same easy gear as 30x40 on a 26, but the 26 will loose more hard gears. Then 32x42 on a 26 gives the same easy gear & doesn't loose as much off the hard gears.

    I guess iscariot won't like 30x40 as he'll loose too many hard gears for his liking.

    Agree re wanting to make the hard climbs. Its good to hear people's experience riding trails I know, ie I don't care if 1x11 wahtever works for JoeHardman riding in Vermont because I don't know 1st hand what those trails are like.

    For some reason I thought that 30t rings weren't available for a 104bcd crank (they are). So I could convert my 10 sp to 30x11-40 or 42 & keep my same cranks. I'll have to ride without granny for a while so I can be stronger when I'm next due for chain ring replacement.

  18. #43
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    james i agree that I think the 40t will work for the 26 wheel. 30t front 40t rear is about the same as granny and 2nd smallest cog (ie 24t front 32t rear).

  19. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by LeeLau View Post
    james i agree that I think the 40t will work for the 26 wheel. 30t front 40t rear is about the same as granny and 2nd smallest cog (ie 24t front 32t rear).
    Interesting. I already ordered the OneUp 42. I'll try it out. If it ends up being to much of a bailout and just slides out because of too much torque, then I'll try the 40. Hadn't considered that side of it.
    Quote Originally Posted by Socialist View Post
    They have socalized healthcare up in canada. The whole country is 100% full of pot smoking pro-athlete alcoholics.

  20. #45
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    1x10 set up 32x13-42 Wolftooth GC on XT with 11T removed and Wolf tooth ring for my Fatback 170.

  21. #46
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    Can you not put a 30t ring on your crankset? 30t x 11-36 gets you exactly the same gearing range, without having to buy a 42t cog or make that shift.

  22. #47
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    Well, after futzing with the aftermarket 38 and 24/24 for a few rides this spring, I said screw it and am going back to 22/36 as long as I am tied into 2x10.

    Crisper shifting, basically the same gear ratio, and no crappy 13-18 cog nonsense.
    I usually go back to 24 front by July.

    Gonna sit it out for another season until the 'right' 11 x1 comes along for me.

    Hey you gear inch nerds, what 11x1 solution has the same low end as 22 (24?)/36? 28/42?
    I can't figure it all out.
    Forum Cross Pollinator, gratuitously strident

  23. #48
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    Based on a 29" wheel:
    XX1 with 10-42 cassette best you get: low range is 28f x 42r = 19.4 gear inch
    24/36 with 12-36 cassette best you get: low range is 24f x 36r = 19.4 gear inch
    XX1 with 10-42 cassette best you get: high range is 28f x 10r = 80.9 gear inch
    24/36 with 12-36 cassette best you get: high range is 36f x 12r = 86.7 gear inch

  24. #49
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    Sheldon brown has a real nice gear ratio calculator.
    However many are in a shit ton.

  25. #50
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    An 11-36 cassette gets you 94.5 gear inches, so a lot more up top compared to the 12t or xx1 with a 28t ring.

    I have a 29er with 2.2" tires, 26/39 rings, and an 11-36 cassette so going to a 32t ring and 42t cog is like keeping my double but switching to a 13-34 cassette. I prefer to pedal up hills at a fairly high cadence so while I could probably push a bigger gear, I'm not sure I want to.

    To expand on what dee said, on 29x2.2 tires:

    22x36 = 17.6 gear inches
    24x36 = 19.4
    28x42 = 19.4
    30x42 = 20.5
    26x36 = 20.8
    26x34 = 22.0
    32x42 = 22.0

    And I like this gear inch calculator:

    http://www.bikecalc.com/gear_inches

    So in conclusion, you should probably only go 1x if you either never ride up steep hills or never pedal on the downhill, or if you're really strong and can live with pushing a bigger gear up your regular climbs and losing a little up top.
    Last edited by jamal; 05-02-2014 at 09:07 PM.

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