Tearing apart 2 bedrooms and a bathroom - tips?

**that dude who did that thing** · 04-18-2014, 01:15 PM

Originally Posted by systemoverblow'd

But would you really want to take the chance in your main home?

That's exactly what I did with my "main home." So far, my only home. I build stuff BETTER than most contractors, because most contractors had to be the lowest bid (or thought they did) to get the job. I'm not paying for labor, so I can splurge on materials, and if trimming out a pocket door takes me three or four weeks (which it did because I only worked on it once in a while) then so be it. The end result is that the brand new wall, and brand new pocket door fit right in with my 110 year old house.

I'm all about the skilled labor. If I wanted to install 60 bathrooms, I'd hire a union contractor. If I was building a materials processing facility that used a shitload of high voltage equipment, I'd hire a union contractor. When I had a bunch of sheetrock finishing needed done, I hired someone who could make it look perfect. But this shit is really not that complicated.

**::: :::** · 04-18-2014, 01:38 PM

sound insulation: if it's just isolating bathroom sounds from the bedroom (or vice versa), sound batt insulation in the perimeter partitions is usually enough to isolate sound. The next level of effort is to add a layer of sheet rock (increasing wall mass is a fairly good way to isolate the sounds). And the next level is to use resilient channel to hang the rock to isolate the vibrations from the wall. Next level is using staggered studs.

one layout option that people seem to like is to create a separate toilet space from the sink space. that way private moments and their lingering scents (and sounds, see above) can be isolated from partners brushing their teeth.

it sounds like you could get away without permits, but my guess is that their cost is fairly insignificant to the whole project in the long run. if nothing else, it's a double check that your subs (or you) are doing a half decent job. if you are hiring decent subs, most likely they'll pull trade permits on their own anyway

resilient channel:
http://www.buildgp.com/GypsumAssemblyPrint.aspx?id=6

staggered stud:
http://www.buildgp.com/GypsumAssemblyPrint.aspx?id=11

**char** · 04-18-2014, 02:47 PM

My experience is that you can get away with alot in term of non-permitted work. That said:

It is going to suck when you hire an electrician that pulls a permit and the building inspector shows up and sees your remodel that isn't permitted.

So if you think you are going need permits for plumbing etc it's something to think about. Also if you are moving interior walls and modifying exterior wall (ie windows) you might want to make sure they are not structural, which in the case of your extremely super high windload they might be.

**schuss** · 04-18-2014, 02:57 PM

How old is the house?
Any worry of playing with structural walls?
How much time do you have to do it?

The thing is, if you're doing this yourself and don't have a ton of experience (sounds like you don't necessarily), there's a ton of things that will probably trip you up.

**Lawless** · 04-18-2014, 02:57 PM

I just redid my master bedroom/bathroom and the kids room last summer. Didn't take out any permits and did all the work myself. Everything was stripped to the studs and relocated electrical and plumbing.

Bathroom - You're going to want in floor heat if you put down tile. I had electric baseboard and it was super easy to switch that over to the electric mat. I used the Thermosoft mat and poured self leveling cement over the top. Tile over that. I then built a tile shower with a bench in it. I used the Kerdi system to water proof it, which was really user friendly. Consult the forums at John Bridge for questions on any of that stuff.

Closet - Outside of the in floor heating, the next best thing I put in was a custom closet built from parts from Home Depot where you can mix and match hanging space, shelves, and drawers. I think Closet Maid was the system. I had a funky L-Shaped closet that I opened up and this system gave you the versatility to do whatever you wanted.

Bedrooms - Scraped the asbestos popcorn off the ceilings, ripped out the old carpet, ripped out the wood paneling and drywalled everything, new carpet, threw in a ceiling fan in our bedroom, and called it good. Not a crazy amount of work, but made a huge difference.

**stfu&gbtw** · 04-18-2014, 03:41 PM

Wow... Thanks for the info guys. I will really consider not messing with the permit... I think that would run me about $1k, all by itself.

I hadn't planned to hire anyone out of the YP... I know a lady who does amazing finish work. Figure I can barter some computer support for some tile and wood finish. Also lucky to have a SE for a neighbor who tries to run his own comjputer network, but doesn't really know how - he owes me a couple of favors already. I will do a walk through with him to ensure there isn't any structural impact. If there is, I'll rework the project to avoid it.

I think I can probably get through the project without relocating the plumbing and electrical. Just some minor modifications and hooking up new fixtures. Electric floor heat isn't an option - we're on PV. Could do solar hot water, but probably won't... Would really add a degree of difficulty. Not sure what I'll do for flooring in the can - I agree that tile will be chilly in the winter. Have linoleum now - works good but looks like shit.

I really appreciate the tips guys...