G3 Skin glue: too tacky?

[skiingsamurai]

I have some old G3 skins for my touring rig where the glue is so soft and tacky it leaves a heavy sticky residue on everything it touches. They stick to my bases reasonably well, but the glue has left itself all over a jacket, hat, glasses (it was windy, dont ask) and half a dozen pairs of gloves.
My BD ascension's dont do this at all.

Is this common on G3's? Do they just suck compared to BD?

If this is unusual, do you have a suggestion?

[XXX-er]

My dynafit skin glue was migrating to the ski bases and the glue on my BD'd was balling up missing from the tails so I did a heat job on the skin glue which stopped the pomoca glue migration and evened out the BD glue

I haven't tryed it with G3 skins but you got nothing to lose trying a reheat on the glue, if that doesnt work you could scrape and completely reglue using the sheets of either G3 or BD glue

[neck beard]

Similar with G3 glue here, or at least it is more sensitive than other glues to less than optimal treatment. I think it needs to be treated with more care than other glues over time with repeated use. In particular do not let the glue get warm when drying.

[wendigo]

Had this with some ascension skins recently. Lay the skins down on some cardboard or paper, glue side up. Take your waxing iron and iron the glue, if the glue bubbles/smokes your iron it too hot. Iron the glue smooth, without using pressure - just glide it over the surface. Clean iron, let skins completely cool off before moving.
4. Profit

[skiingsamurai]

Had this with some ascension skins recently. Lay the skins down on some cardboard or paper, glue side up. Take your waxing iron and iron the glue, if the glue bubbles/smokes your iron it too hot. Iron the glue smooth, without using pressure - just glide it over the surface. Clean iron, let skins completely cool off before moving.
4. Profit

Iron directly on the glue? No barrier or anything?

I havent heard this one before

[icelanticskier]

I have some old G3 skins for my touring rig where the glue is so soft and tacky it leaves a heavy sticky residue on everything it touches. They stick to my bases reasonably well, but the glue has left itself all over a jacket, hat, glasses (it was windy, dont ask) and half a dozen pairs of gloves.
My BD ascension's dont do this at all.

Is this common on G3's? Do they just suck compared to BD?

If this is unusual, do you have a suggestion?

From my 20+ years in the ski biz and as a bc skier, bd ascensions and the glue they use are top notch, imo. Keeping skins stored glue on glue, no using the cheat sheets (throw them away immediately), and always keep skins folded in half inside yer coat (not in chest pockets) so that yer body heat will keep glue warm enough to pull em apart on cold days. Hang them to dry over a curtain rod or something glue side up unfolded and stick glue on glue when dry you should never have a problem with glue issues.

Rog

[wendigo]

Iron directly on the glue? No barrier or anything?

I havent heard this one before

yes, direct on the glue. works fine.

[GeezerSteve]

Iron directly on the glue? No barrier or anything?

Better, cleaner, less waste if you use parchment paper. Lay the parchment paper on the glue, iron smooth, let cool for a few minutes, peel off parchment paper. The result should look glassy smooth like original factory glue.

If the glue is relatively clean you do a refresher without adding glue. If glue is dirty, see threads re reglue. (Final steps described above are same for refresh and reglue.)

[XXX-er]

I had kept the plastic G3 backing sheets that I peeled off skins before I trimmed them, I think the BD use a one side shinny paper backing, I knew I had kept this stuff for a reason, you can also use baking parchment paper but NOT wax paper, I thot the original skin backing worked > the parchment, I haven't tried the iron directly on skin glue method

I used the ski itself to hold the skin glue side up and I used a digital wax iron at 320F which is hotter than you would wax at, I used a wine bottle to roll/distribute the balled up glue on the BD's

I just use the cheet sheets for long term storage over the summer but I couldn't see using them every time I take skins off the skis

[HHTELE]

Iron directly on the glue? No barrier or anything?

I havent heard this one before

Just did it on g3 skins. As you do it, you will see steam. the only place steam comes from is water, which does not belong in glue.

Works well.

I'll probably re-glue these, but they seem to be working pretty well. actually, sticking more than i am used to, and I have to take my skis off to take the skins off.

[GeezerSteve]

I thot the original skin backing worked > the parchment

About the same, slight edge to parchment paper IME

[MakersTeleMark]

Use a traditional paper bag (jesus, if you can even find one these days). Absorbs the moisture. FTW over parchment.

[PatCleary]

My take was that they were too sticky as well (old second hand pair, so no reference). No concerns about losing a skin, but I still have some glue I can't get off my goggles (skin->glove->goggle). One season with those was enough of an annoyance for me. I think we ran into the same deal with a friends pair of new G3 skins.

Not a lot of other references, as I just have two sets of Pomoca's now, but I like the Pomoca glue way better.

[I've seen black diamonds!]

This has happened for me with BD and G3 skins. Don't put them away wet, or they can degrade quickly. The iron refresh works well, until it doesn't. Then you need to reglue.

[GeezerSteve]

Use a traditional paper bag (jesus, if you can even find one these days). Absorbs the moisture.

Also absorbs the glue, thus ironing with paper bag is one way to remove the glue (tho there are better ways). But the idea here is to refresh the glue, i.e., leave all the glue and smooth it out.

[kootenayskier]

Too tacky. Eventually the glue on any well used pair of skins will become contaminated - soft, gummy, lacking adhesion. I replaced the glue on my G3 skins over the summer, using BD glue only because it was what my local shop carried. The iron-on process was long and difficult compared to the paint-on process I was familiar with, but after repeatedly ironing the entire length of the skins (directly on the glue) the glue eventually seemed to stick more to the skins than to itself when folded. I've been using them all season, without issue, except when the temperature drops to less than -15 celsius. In such conditions the glue sticks so well to itself that I can't separate my folded skins. Recently it required two of us and a knife to get them apart, and I was sprinkling snow on the glue so that I could continue using them?

[XXX-er]

how hot was yer iron ? waxing is done at ironed on at 270 ish F while BD recommends a medium hot wool setting which is much hotter I had my digital wax iron maxed to get 320F

I noticed lately if water stays on my pomoca glue during drying that area becomes whitish and a little gummy so sometimes I unstick them to let dry and the white area dissappears

A top guide I met at xmas was telling me he had heard but did not confirm the effectiveness of throwing the skins in the bag into the dryer for the quick rejuvenation ...it might work

[GeezerSteve]

Dryer? A parchment paper refresh would take less time, i.e., a few minutes per skin.

I always store skins on cheat sheets between tours, stick glue-to-glue during the tour (although I sometimes use the cheat sheet for the first tour or two after a reglue or refresh cuz the glue is so damn sticky).

[icelanticskier]

Too tacky. Eventually the glue on any well used pair of skins will become contaminated - soft, gummy, lacking adhesion. I replaced the glue on my G3 skins over the summer, using BD glue only because it was what my local shop carried. The iron-on process was long and difficult compared to the paint-on process I was familiar with, but after repeatedly ironing the entire length of the skins (directly on the glue) the glue eventually seemed to stick more to the skins than to itself when folded. I've been using them all season, without issue, except when the temperature drops to less than -15 celsius. In such conditions the glue sticks so well to itself that I can't separate my folded skins. Recently it required two of us and a knife to get them apart, and I was sprinkling snow on the glue so that I could continue using them?

which is why you shouldn't let them get cold. keep em in yer coat between laps or all day when not in use on cold days.

rog

[icelanticskier]

Dryer? A parchment paper refresh would take less time, i.e., a few minutes per skin.

I always store skins on cheat sheets between tours, stick glue-to-glue during the tour (although I sometimes use the cheat sheet for the first tour or two after a reglue or refresh cuz the glue is so damn sticky).

cheat sheets will allow tiny particle, dust, dirt, and air get to the glue while storing them. keeping yer skins glue to glue always keeps the glue sticky and contamination free for the long haul. the plush should wear out before you need to re-glue, or add glue to skins when properly used.

rog

[XXX-er]

Dryer? A parchment paper refresh would take less time, i.e., a few minutes per skin.

Buddy was smiling when he shared this anecdote, I think it's just one dirtbag quickie method, I wouldn't do it and I don't think he would have either BUT ... its been done

I have seen cheet sheets falling apart from constant use and all that plastic goes on the skin glue but I think the amount of contaminants skins would get stored on cheet sheets would pale in comparison to the water and all the shit we ski thru

[dewam]

In such conditions the glue sticks so well to itself that I can't separate my folded skins. Recently it required two of us and a knife to get them apart, and I was sprinkling snow on the glue so that I could continue using them?

Here is a trick I learned from my kid:

JUST ROLL THEM UP

I started my kid in the back country when he was 7, he could not pull the skins apart, so I did it for him. He soon started rolling them so he didn't have to have help from dad. More than 10 years later, I ended up with a pair of skins that were quite sticky so I gave that rolling thing a try. Start at the tail and just roll the plush into the glue. Done hundreds of times and ZERO problems. Never contaminated glue or plush. I do store them glue to glue on the last of the day. Den

[GeezerSteve]

cheat sheets will allow tiny particle, dust, dirt, and air get to the glue while storing them.

stupid

the plush should wear out before you need to re-glue

stupider

[icelanticskier]

stupid

stupider

FUCK OFF SHITDICK. enjoy your skin mis-handling/maintenance.

retard

rog

[kootenayskier]

which is why you shouldn't let them get cold. keep em in yer coat between laps or all day when not in use on cold days.

rog

Back before Ascension figured out a glue that worked in cold temps, and when our choices were limited to Montana or Pomoca, we all carried our skins inside our jackets on most days so that the glue would actually stick. It's not a practice I want to go back to, and in the years since I've never had issues carrying them in my pack, so I'll just replace them. FWIW I'll likely purchase G3 Alpinist Skins, because I like their tip attachment system and particular balance of grip and glide.