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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
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    Pemberton, BC
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    2,240

    Has anyone ridden the 2014 Kona Process 153 DL?


  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Sweden/b'ham
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    1,105
    yes, i have one.

  3. #3
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    Jun 2004
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    Pemberton, BC
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    Sweet. How's it treating you? Are you digging the suspension design? Is the linked single pivot active under braking?

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
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    Sweden/b'ham
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    1,105
    second best trail bike i have ever had. After the Process 134 of course the 153 is kinda overkill around here.

    I have spent a day demoing the Bronson and i would say the suspension is more active and feels the same under braking, so it must work...also, all the pivots and bearings are huge, you could probably overhaul the pivots with a rock and a stick...

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Truckee
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    1,041
    hey Toast, I know you don't like the linkage on Kona's. Have they changed it for these? Every bike mag seems to like them. Just curious what you don't like about them. I ride a L 2012 enduro carbon, 36 float up front RC kashima up front, rp23 rear, crossmax wheels, dialed. Was looking at these (though they're sold out at lbs) but would like any input. FWIW, liked my tracer 2 L a little better for jumping and flickability.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
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    Pemberton, BC
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    2,240
    Send Toast a PM. He was helpful in sharing his thoughts on the Process linkage to me.

    I recently bought a 134 DL but haven't ridden it yet as I'm waiting on a Pike. My 2 cents, based on a quick demo of the bike is that yes, the suspension is more active when pedaling compared to others like a VPP or DW etc but that was one of the attractions for me. I ride in technical terrain with technical climbs. I need an active suspension platform that keep the rear wheel glued to the ground. If I need to firm up the suspension, for some logging road or something i'll do it through the shock.

    I think suspension designers are waaay too anal about making sure the suspension is inactive when pedaling - which is fine I guess if you only ride smooth singletrack. But in technical terrain I want my suspension active. I'd rather have the anti squat control in my shock, where i can control it rather than permanently within the suspension design. Sure DW apparently balances this compromise out somewhat, but the cost and weight is too high for me.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Victor, ID
    Posts
    737
    curious to see if you guys think it lives up to the reviews? If so, I might just need to demo one.

    http://www.bikemag.com/videos/2014-b...rocess-134-dl/

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    Pemberton, BC
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    2,240
    So I've got a boat load of days on the Process 134 now. Just in case someone cares, here are my thoughts so far.

    I was originally leaning towards the 153 but after a quick test ride, it was clear the 153 was going to be overkill. Its like a mini DH rig that wasn't versatile enough and seemed a little too slack. So I went for the 134, with no regrets.

    First off, the caveats, I bought a 134 DL, swaped the stock fork and shock out with a 150 mm solo Pike and a Fox Float X. I converted to a 30 tooth, 11x36 1x10 system and threw a HR2 2.35 on the front. I dont know what it weighs but I'm guessing 31 ish lbs.

    I've ridden this bike in pretty much every scenario possible ie all day buff alpine epics to the muddy North Shore to an Enduro race to a marathon race and everything in between.

    Outside of the suspension, the stock build kit is pretty much exactly how I'd do it. Full SLX kit with tubeless ready rims. A practical, cost effective setup. The KS dropper post has been super impressive. Silky smooth and flawless - far superior to the Reverb I had on my old rig. I'm running tubeless with Stans sealant. The wheels are setup easier than any Stans rim I've had. No soap or compressed air needed.

    On to the geo - the hype is true, this bike just fits. It feels like its custom made. When just sitting and spinning up fire roads the body is in this relaxed neutral position. It leaves you nice and refreshed at the top. When climbing technical stuff, all you need to do is trust the bike, point and pedal and you'll clean things that look impossible. I keep the rear suspension fully open in tech climbing situations as it keeps me glued to the ground creating the traction that lets me clean the impossible. The bigger wheels aren't as flickable as my old 26 but the 650 'angle of attack' makes up for it. The wheels fly over technical features when climbing , where a 26 would just nose dive into it. To me, the 650 is a clear winner over 26. I have had so many moments on tech climbs where I'm just like, 'what the fuck just happened, how did I possibly clean that?' I'll will say that with the 150 mm fork, the head tube feels a little tall so tight climbing switchbacks can take a time to get used to. Its also not the lightest rig out there - the carbon version must be pretty sweet but I'll pocket that cash for a trip somewhere.

    On the down, the short stays lets you flick it around it the tech stuff. While the long front center creates a wheelbase that makes for a super stable ride when going fast and straight. Something about the wheelbase, 650b wheels and BB height that make it a crazy fun bike at high speeds. How much the Pike and Float X play into the down performance I cant comment. Not since the glory days of Marzocchi in the late 90's have I ridden a fork with this top end suppleness. The bike as whole seems to have no limit, the more I throw at it, the more it says' is that all you got?'.

    Overall this thing has been a super fun ride that kicks ass on the up and down. The geo truly is a home run. I finally feel like I have a bike that FITS.

    Is this bike better than a Bronson or Trance Advanced or Pivot or whatever, I don't know and don't give a shit. I'm loving this bike and look forward to every climb and descent.
    Last edited by xyz; 07-17-2014 at 02:10 PM.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    North Van
    Posts
    3,763
    I picked up a Process 134 in January, currently set up with a Fox 34 at 140. I'm debating adjusting it internally to 150. Doing it again, do you think 150 works well for this bike, or does the tall front end cause issues? Have you tried playing with headset spacers?

    It has been mainly on high speed, rough descents and fast cornering that I have been wishing for more suspension and a slacker HA, but everywhere else, 140 has been excellent. On drops and slower steeps, I notice no issues, and I like how poppy the bike is and how planted the front end feels on climbs compared to my old 160 mm bike.

    I agree with you; this bike is great.

    Last edited by D(C); 06-14-2015 at 10:52 PM.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    Pemberton, BC
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    2,240
    My decision to go with 150 upfront was two fold. First, I wanted a Pike, and I recall at that point in time a Pike was only available in 150 mm in 27.5.

    I also wanted 150 to make this bike a little more capable for north shore type riding; a little slacker and more aggressive etc. same motive for the more aggressive float x shock.

    Considering I have a 29er hardtail for more xc type stuff, I didn't want the two bikes to cross over too much. But I didn't want to go with the 153 as it felt a little too slack. I never shuttle or lift ride so I still needed something that could climb well.

    Anyway. At the end of the day, 150 mm is only 10 mm more than 140. I've never tried the 140 fork option so can't compare but on rare occasions getting around tight climbing switchback corners can be a little tricky. I imagine it would be a little easier with steeper HA. I slammed the bars down low as possible to help with this. I'd like to lower more but I need a new upper bearing to do that.

    Hope that helps.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    North Van
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    3,763
    Thanks. That does help. I'm currently running a 10 mm headset spacer and 25 mm rise bars, so there is room to drop if needed. I think I'll give it a go next time I strip down my fork.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    294
    I have been on a Process 153 for well over a year now so thought i'd chime in with my thoughts. I've actually owned two different 153 frames; firstly i bought a large, which i ran for almost 12 months, before I downsized to a medium frame. I have a custom build that comes out at just over 28lbs - m70 rims, next SL cranks, carbon bars etc. I ran the same build on both frames.

    Casting aside the differences caused by frame sizing, i think Kona got a lot right with this bike. I ride probably 4 times a week, year round in the PNW. The Kona's bearings have held up great and the rear end of the bike is still as stiff as it was on day 1. The 66.5 degree HA seems to be about perfect - not too slack that the steering becomes slow, and still fun on less severe trails. The single pivot linkage isn't fancy but it works, and gives the bike has a poppy and playful character. You still get some trail feel, something that i think is missing on bikes like the Nomad and Reign. Then again it's not likely quite as point and shoot as those bikes. It seems to strike a really great medium, at least for the terrain around here. I also really enjoy the 425 chainstays - they make getting the front end of the bike up that much easier, something i really missed when i hopped on an SB6c recently.

    Now for the sizing discussion. I am 5'11 and around 170lbs. I started out with the large frame, which has a 460mm reach. Even with the short stays, that reach makes for a really long bike - it was longer than my Trek Session, which is also a size large. It took some getting used to. I found that i had to be chest over bars and very aggressive with the front end, always attacking. On slower twisty stuff it sucked, but faced with true downhill terrain (like out at Port Angeles) it excelled. However i don't ride PA that often, and i also don't want to ride balls to the wall all the time. The large just didn't feel nimble enough for me and i didn't like that it required a different style of riding to my other bikes.

    So, in order to satisfy my curiosity i bought a medium frame. Swapped everything over (including shock) and replaced the 35mm stem with a 50mm i had lying around. The reach on the medium in 435mm. First ride was out in Leavenworth and i thought i had made a mistake. Didn't feel as stable and it was way more sensitive to where i was positioned on the bike - not as big of a sweet spot. However once i got it back onto trails i ride regularly i loved it. So much more nimble and snappy. I ride it more 'conventionally', weighting through the feet instead of throwing the front end into turns. It just feels more manageable and as a result more fun for me. It's also faster, at least for me on my local stuff.

    So, whilst i heartily recommend the frame i would advise you to be wary of the sizing. I am not sold on this new wave of super long wheelbase trail bikes. They are made for the EWS guys and for riding on the most gnarly of tracks. Those guys have the bike handling skills whereby they can make the wheelbase work, but for me it was a step too far. Get a bike that's going to be fun for the trails you ride 90% of the time.

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