Knolly Endorphin build

[rippinstyle]

So stoked on my endorphin to show up!! Should be this week, medium ano black with CCDB CS

'14 fox 34 talas
Slx brakes
Reverb
Next carbon bars
Stan's flow ex wheel with hope pro hubs
Raceface nw 30t
SRAM 10 speed cassette
X9 type 2 rear derail

My question I need opinions on is my crank set up. I ordered the raceface atlas cranks, 170mm, but now I'm thinking that is too much for my build. I want to stay in the 27-28 lb range. I think I'll stick with the raceface theme so should I go with the turbine cranks instead?

I live in summit county, CO and won't be shuttling this bike. Long trail rides with techy ups and downs.

Thoughts?

[joetron]

Yes. Turbines.

Get stoked. Holy shit, do I love my endo.

[dfinn]

I also love mine, possibly more than I've ever loved another bike.

I went with the carbon XOs on mine. They took a pretty good beating this summer and no issues so far.

[rippinstyle]

Yea I think I knew subconsciously that I needed to get the lighter turbines, just needed some maggots to tell me. Can you run them 1x? Holy shit, everything I read about endo owners is out of this world good. This will be my 2nd real bike, coming from an 08 reign xo, I'm hoping I drop 10 lbs ish.

What are u guys thinkin your set ups weigh?

[Dee Hubbs]

2013 Next SL crank can be found at a really really good price. (sine they redesigned it in 2014).They are the lights crank on the market, with multiple ring configuration/options.
But yes the Turbine is a great option.

[dfinn]

Mine weighs 27.5 with a pretty respectable build.

edit: it would probably help if I listed the parts. i think the wheels are the biggest weight savings.

xfusion slant rl2 fork
fox ctd rear shock
I9 torch trail wheels
1x10 w/sram x9 and xx1 cranks, xt cassette
mrp amg guide
xfusion hilo sl dropper
atlas carbon bar
foamie grips
slx brakes
canfield crampon pedals
i know I had single ply tires on at the time it was weighed but I can't remember what they were. the bike is slightly heavier now due to tires, i shredded those single plys pretty quick once I got the bike up to whistler. I'm now running schwalbe hans damps in the super gravity casing.

[joetron]

I've pretty much got a full xt build with 1x10, xt 11-36, Float 36, CTD, DT 350 hubs to flow ex front/ wtb i23 rear, atlas bars cut to 755, reverb, and a mix of tires. It's about 31 give or take depending on tires. I actually just got some xo trail brakes and shed a few grams and got a touch of modulation. It gets to about 30 with light tires, but I'm honestly not trying super hard, and the bike is super solid and rips...which is what counts.

[beaterdit]

Mine weighs 27.5 with a pretty respectable build.

Holy shit! That's really light for that bike, nice job.

I've got the Turbines on my Tracer2 with a stout build, they're plenty strong for anything short of freeride and not heavy. If you really want to save weight I'd go carbon with either the NextSL or SixC, or look for some closeout XX or XO. Might be looking to the NextSLs for my new bike.

[alewi11]

I'd also go carbon if it was me. Lots of good deals out there. I had X0s on my last build and have XX1 right now. Really like them. No experience with the Race face carbon stuff, but it looks nice.

[rippinstyle]

Man I'm not finding any good deals on 2013 next sl or sram xx, xo1 cranks. Checked the usuals, pricepoint, arts, eBay..... Kinda hittin the limit on my build price so don't want to pay more than $250 for cranks, w/ bb preferably. Is that price possible for carbon?

[chatton18]

I think they were in the steep and cheap gear cache a while ago. Keep an eye out, they run bike stuff there every once and a while.

[alewi11]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/SRAM-X01-GXP...item565f12e059

http://www.ebay.com/itm/SRAM-XX1-BB3...item2a34064d30

These are just 2 cranks that have a buy it now below $250. If you keep an eye out you could probably score some below $200 that are on an actual auction.

Here's a couple options right from a retailer

http://www.bike-discount.de/shop/k20...gxp-175mm.html

http://www.bike-discount.de/shop/k20...0mm-black.html

bike-discount has some prices that are pretty hard to beat, especially with drivetrain stuff. It takes forever to get your order, but what do care since it's winter. If you haven't purchased the rest of your drivetrain you should definitely give them a look.

[markcjr]

i have new black 175 mm turbines w/bottom bracket and 3 new team rings i'll sell if you wanna do a whole shibang package deal. i'll beat the online guys by $20

Or if anyone else wants cranks or rings or bb lemme know

[rippinstyle]

Having a problem gettin my b tension set right. I can only get the upper derail pulley within 3/4" of largest cassette ring. B screw is damn near maxed out... Any ideas? I think I have my chain length dialed, shifting is working pretty well right now through full range.

Thoughts?

[rippinstyle]

Pic in high gear

[dfinn]

chain is too long

[rippinstyle]

chain is too long

I tried adding one more link and the derail upper pulley starts rubbing against chain, clearly too long.

[dfinn]

why would you add links?

[rippinstyle]

Hahaha. B/c I'm apparently illiterate right now.

Before I posted picture I had tried less links; 1 less, 2 less etc. B tension never seemed to get better. I'll try again and see

[Finstah]

Having a problem gettin my b tension set right. I can only get the upper derail pulley within 3/4" of largest cassette ring. B screw is damn near maxed out... Any ideas? I think I have my chain length dialed, shifting is working pretty well right now through full range.

Thoughts?

You want the B tension to be set at a minimum, not maxed out. Increasing B tension increases the space between the upper jockey wheel on the derailleur and the largest cog.

Are you certain the derailleur is installed correctly onto the hanger?

[rippinstyle]

You want the B tension to be set at a minimum, not maxed out. Increasing B tension increases the space between the upper jockey wheel on the derailleur and the largest cog.

Are you certain the derailleur is installed correctly onto the hanger?

B tension is currently at full minimum, closest it can get to largest cog.

I thought the derailleur looked like it hung a bit too far towards rear, which would explain too big of gap between upper jockey and largest cog. I removed derail and tried to see if the tab that the b tension bolt adjusts against could be mounted any other way, did not seem like it. The derail hanger has a notch and also seems like it can only accept derailleur one way.

From the pix, does the angle of the derailleur look normal? Seems to me it should be a bit more vertical...

[Anospa]

You can attach a derailleur incorrectly if you do not get that plate in the correct spot (I did it and couldn't figure out why I couldn't get the B-tension setup right).

How did you size the chain?

[rippinstyle]

You can attach a derailleur incorrectly if you do not get that plate in the correct spot (I did it and couldn't figure out why I couldn't get the B-tension setup right).

How did you size the chain?

B tension has to hit that tab for adjustment right? If that is the case, this is the only way for derailleur to mount.

[rippinstyle]

Pretty much followed pinkbikes tech article for gauging chain length.

Let all air out of shock, compressed suspension with cassette in largest cog and determined chain length from there.

http://m.pinkbike.com/news/Tech-Tues...sics-2012.html

I've adjusted shorter since dfinn enlightened me that I can't fucking read, and still.....big b tension gap. I triple checked derailleur mount and I'm 99% sure that it's the only way it can mount. BTW, would a type 2 derailleur have anything to do with it?

[dfinn]

Honestly, I've never really set or paid attention to B tension and I've never had an issue. Just my .02c but if it shifts well I wouldn't lose sleep over it.