Help/WTB/TR: My first bike build. Ninja (Nimble) 9

[stuckathuntermtn]

The pads are rubbing, but I know I just need to center them up better. I'll try the card method.
And lol, creaky, no, I mounted the washer thingies as shown in the...wait for it...instructions!
As far as I can tell, the wheel is in there straight, but I supposed I could try adjusting it back and forth a bit.

[stuckathuntermtn]

Ok, the rubbing was user error. I retightened the dropouts and sat the wheel in there again. Rotor clears just fine.

The derailleur pinch bolt refuses to hold the cable, which is what is jamming the shifter.

[creaky fossil]

Try looking closely at the derailleur's cable pinch setup. Usually there's a groove in the derailleur body or washer, and I'd bet you are not using the groove. The mfr tends to engineer reasonably well and most errors are at the user's end. See dropout problem as example.

[stuckathuntermtn]

I was getting it in the groove. I'm not a fucking moron like everyone seems to think. I even tried turning the washer around so it would really crush the cable and grab it, but no.
as far as I can tell, I'm doing it right, and getting the nut tight as I can, but you can tell by the condition of the cable that it's not really grabbing it.

[jamal]

Post a picture of your FD and cable routing.

[radam]

Is it just the way it looks in your pics or is the fork actually set to ~80mm of travel?

[tellybele]

Is it just the way it looks in your pics or is the fork actually set to ~80mm of travel?

Can't be...but maybe Pegado likes low BBs and hella steep angles??

This weekend should be a good'n to get out on your N9, eh Pegado?

[creaky fossil]

as far as I can tell, I'm doing it right, and getting the nut tight as I can, but you can tell by the condition of the cable that it's not really grabbing it.

what appears vs what is.

you were sure the dropouts were fucked, eh?

bring the stinkin' thing over to my shop after work today and I'll sort you out.

[tellybele]

what appears vs what is.

you were sure the dropouts were fucked, eh?

bring the stinkin' thing over to my shop after work today and I'll sort you out.

Do this Pegado and just increase that 6er to a 12er and you'll be good for the weekend.

[stuckathuntermtn]

I'll be in touch. And the dropout legitimately is fucked up. They're sending out redesigned ones to customers. It's on their website, if you're curious.

[creaky fossil]

You know what I'm saying. The dropout may be academically, on-paper "fucked" but the brake rub wasn't due to that theoretical problem. 99% of Gomers will complain about something being "fucked" -- part of 142x12 is for Gomers who can't remove and reinstall a 135x9or10 rear wheel without problem. "Oh, I have to manipulate the rear der and chain and rotor/pads alignment while instalilng my rear wheel? That's fucked." Blah blah blah icksetteruh. Every home mechanic goes through learning, makes mistakes, blames equipment when it's really Barney Hamfist in charge of home wrenching attempts.

12er isn't required, 6er would be generous but still not required.

[stuckathuntermtn]

Yeah, I probably also need a cable puller. I'm a bit hamfisted, but I'm learning
If I come over this evening or tomorrow, there will definitely be beer. Maybe we can just drain a Bayern growler. This front derailleur and getting the brakes all squared away is all I need to start riding.

Is it just the way it looks in your pics or is the fork actually set to ~80mm of travel?

As far as I can tell, it's at 120. It's labelled that on the box. Definitely goes farther than 3" when being sqeezed with a little air in it. I did that because some oil was weeping onto the tubes, but after cycling it a few times, it stopped. It is a brand new fork, after all, so you expect stuff like that.

[jm2e]

The pads are rubbing, but I know I just need to center them up better. I'll try the card method.
And lol, creaky, no, I mounted the washer thingies as shown in the...wait for it...instructions!
As far as I can tell, the wheel is in there straight, but I supposed I could try adjusting it back and forth a bit.

Ok, the rubbing was user error. I retightened the dropouts and sat the wheel in there again. Rotor clears just fine.

I'm not a fucking moron like everyone seems to think.

I don't think you're an idiot either. But you sure look like an idiot the way everything you try to buy for or install on this bike is a fucking epic and indicative of things wrong with anything except your knowledge base. It's been fun watching you post that somethings fucked only to see your next post you've found resolution. I guess that's what a blog is all about.
Don't get me wrong, I go through the same shit all the time. It's just that I don't come to TGR every time I get frustrated spending 6hrs on a 2hr job, because I'm way too embarrassed for that. I've got a couple buddies who can pull me out of the weeds and if that fails I've got a top notch mechanic waiting like a lifeguard to haul my ass out of the drink as soon as I start flailing my arms around. But none of those stories are going to make it in here because they won't help other newbies and they'll just annoy the experts.
More power to you. I'm glad you're on the Canfield bus and having fun building up a bike and learning a thing or two about wrenching while at it. I'm glad you have the self confidence to flaunt it.

I'll be in touch. And the dropout legitimately is fucked up. They're sending out redesigned ones to customers. It's on their website, if you're curious.

Technically it's unfair to say the dropouts are "legitimately fucked". Canfield makes it very clear on their website that it's an inconvenience, necessitating loosening up some shit in order to get the rear wheel on and off. But once mounted correctly, the dropouts prove to be completely not fucked up and hold the rear wheel in exactly the correct position for free rotation. Just to be clear. Cool of them to ship free replacements to everyone.

[creaky fossil]

Yeah, I probably also need a cable puller. I'm a bit hamfisted, but I'm learning
If I come over this evening or tomorrow, there will definitely be beer. Maybe we can just drain a Bayern growler. This front derailleur and getting the brakes all squared away is all I need to start riding.

A what? cable puller? Stop reading MTBR.

If you bring Bayern you'll be drinking alone.

I don't know what I'm doing tomorrow, I may not have time/desire to do this. That's why I said today, after work.

[stuckathuntermtn]

Well, almost. True to form, I mangled the chain. I gotta fix that, then it's on!

[stuckathuntermtn]

It rips!

[stuckathuntermtn]

Ok, full build specs:

Medium frame
Fork is X Fusion Slide 29er at 120mm
Wheels are some OEM Specialized. The rear is heavy.
Tires are 29 X 2.4 Purgatory and 2.2 Captain. Both in the control casing.
SLX brakes, 11-36 cassette, clutch gs cage rear derailleur, shifters.
X7 direct mount front derailleur
Race Face Evolve crank that sorta works as 2X10. 24 and 38T chainrings.
XT 6 bolt, ice tech rotors 7 and 8"
Deus XC seatpost
FSA 190 stem, 70mm X 6* X 31.8mm
Funn Fatboy bars, 785mm low rise.
Random $8 seat, $5 seatpost collar.
Cane Creek 40 ZS/EC headset.

32lbs, but it feels lighter.
Handling is totally neutral. Corners easily, but isn't twitchy at all. Climbs well with the front end planted, and descends great. etc etc. Buy one.

[Hott Butt Mud]

Cool bike. Probably time to let this thread die!

EDIT: All that work to build a 32lb HARD TAIL!? Wow

(please don't reply, thanks)

[HansJob]

Sweet build.

[reynolds.trailrun]

I like the murdered out look. Sick build. I was contemplating shorter CS for my build.

But damn that is heavy.

You want a cable puller? I bought one a few years ago. Pay for shipping and it is yours. Most useless contraption ever. Best thing to do is figure out how to use the limit screws properly to your advantage for the RD/FD.

[stuckathuntermtn]

LOL, I hear ya. Creaky got the cable to lock in the pinch bolt after roughing up the washer a bit. (wanna know a secret? He's actually really nice in person).

It's heavy because it's steel and I didn't/couldn't spring for any really high end parts. The back wheel is really heavy. You'd easy go below 30lbs with a better crank, wheels, maybe some carbon, and lose at least a pound going with the Yelli, but the amount of shock it seems to be absorbing is worth it.
So, thanks to everyone who helped, and a big hard middle finger for those who didn't to sit and spin on. Way to flame me for doing what you though I couldn't. I'll get some more picks up if I can take some good ones.

Serious question: Am I in a higher effective gear at 24T front 36T rear because of the bigger wheels than on my Kona 26" FS with 22T 34T rear? I might just be out of shape, but going uphill has been kinda hard.

[jamal]

Yesh. 22x34 with 26" wheels is 16.8 gear inches, 24x36 on a 29er is 19.3. Even 22x36 is slightly taller than what you had 17.7.

I just got a new bike and the little ring is 26t. It's noticeable but I still made it up that steep section past curry cabin the other day. Going up to stuart peak thrusday which will determine how much I miss my 22t granny gear.

[stuckathuntermtn]

Right on.

[Eluder]

Fun Fact: Cable pullers are really good for getting zip ties really tight.

[MTT]

It rips!

that's a nice bike, Some people forget how much money this is to many people.

And 32 pounds is not real heavy. They used to weigh 40+ with less gearing and suspension, And long ago Rubber clamps that grabbed the rim for breaks.


after all the internet grief, congratulations.
And my bike is prettier and lighter than your bike!