Who is cutting wood?

[splitinbend]

And also the bar could be worn out. Specifically, the groove in the bar may have so much play from wear that the chain wanders. New bar time if that's the case.

The saw is only a year old and I've only cut about 8 chords on it. Guessing, hoping the bar doesn't wear out that quick.

[Meadow Skipper]

The saw is only a year old and I've only cut about 8 chords on it. Guessing, hoping the bar doesn't wear out that quick.

It shouldn't, but check for that. For some reason there's excessive side to side movement of the chain. telebobski's points about tension, sharpening, and forcing the cut are likely to be relevant.

[stfu&gbtw]

Might also check that your bar nuts are tight and the bar isn't bent. Do you flip your bar periodically? If not, you might flip it over and see if it continues.

[Game Over]

I'd at least flip the bar over before getting a new one

[Bronco]

Occasionally the bottom side of the bar wears and becomes "mushroomed" and needs to be filed flush to avoid hanging up. Don't use cheap bar oil.

[~mikey b]

I think forcing the cut is common. Let the saw do the work. Work your way around big logs: start at the top, dog it over to the back side and get a lot of the back, dog it back over to the horizontal and let it ride down. Use wedges.

[splitinbend]

So I realized the toothbrush wasn't getting deep enough in the bar groove and found bar grease coated dust deeper in. Cleaned it out, flipped the bar, tightened the chain and cut both some juniper and pine. Results were the same with the ridge cuts. My guess is I have probably been running the chain too loose, which I can only assume has caused some wear resulting in chain play during cuts. I'll take it in to the shop tomorrow when they're open and get it checked out. Appears there's nothing not I can do. Thanks for the other advice.

[stfu&gbtw]

So I realized the toothbrush wasn't getting deep enough in the bar groove and found bar grease coated dust deeper in. Cleaned it out, flipped the bar, tightened the chain and cut both some juniper and pine. Results were the same with the ridge cuts. My guess is I have probably been running the chain too loose, which I can only assume has caused some wear resulting in chain play during cuts. I'll take it in to the shop tomorrow when they're open and get it checked out. Appears there's nothing not I can do. Thanks for the other advice.

Any play in the drive sprocket?

[Meadow Skipper]

Any play in the drive sprocket?

I'm not sure how that would lead to chain wobble since the bar guides it. Care to elaborate?

[stfu&gbtw]

I'm not sure how that would lead to chain wobble since the bar guides it. Care to elaborate?

That model of sprocket is probably incompatible with his shoes...

All kidding aside, just thinking about what's attached to the problem. No hard info or experience that suggests that'd be the cause.

[char]

I'd check the oiler on that saw if you have that much paint peeled off the bar in 8 cords. If isn't putting out enough oil then you are wearing the bar out faster (heat is peeling the paint off). Coupled with incorrect chain tension and you might narrow down the problem.

You can take the bar off and look down the groove and easily identify bar wearing.

This will help with cleaning the bar and has the added benefit of helping you set your rakers.

http://www.stihlusa.com/products/cha...ls/depthgauge/

[Bronco]

Try a new chain, took me a good bit of practice to get good at sharpening and ruined a few chains trying.

[splitinbend]

I'd check the oiler on that saw if you have that much paint peeled off the bar in 8 cords. If isn't putting out enough oil then you are wearing the bar out faster (heat is peeling the paint off). Coupled with incorrect chain tension and you might narrow down the problem.

You can take the bar off and look down the groove and easily identify bar wearing.

This will help with cleaning the bar and has the added benefit of helping you set your rakers.

http://www.stihlusa.com/products/cha...ls/depthgauge/

Went to the shop, guys said it was just the chain. I tried to sharpen it myself more than once and the shop guy said he could see the chain was dull on one side but not the other. In regards to the bar, it was fine, he just said when I was cutting rounds wider than my bar it heats up real quick and likely I didn't rest the saw enough causing heat strain. That coupled with my failed chain sharpening and not flipping the bar resulted in an offset chain.

Thanks for all the helpful feedback everybody.

[XXX-er]

The time I didn't sharpen evenly the symptom was that the saw cut would pull to one side

http://www.treestuff.com/store/catalog.asp?item=1396

i like this Huskavarna filing guide^^

[~mikey b]

Keep 2-3 chains in rotation. You'll get better at sharpening them, but if you do it a lot you'll be stoked to have a fresh chain you can use and file a few times while the other is at the shop getting a grind. And don't chuck a shitty chain. Someday your going to need a dirt/rock motherfuckingroot chain.

[Game Over]

had a little mishap on the ATV a couple days ago and ended up with my bar looking like this. Think she'll still cut straight??

[cat in january]

When I first saw the picture I thought maybe you had a widow maker take a nasty turn on ya.

[~mikey b]

Got a pro coming next week to climb and drop about a dozen big trees and a few small ones next week. I'm going to get a bunch of firewood out of this. 1 giant sequoia, 2 sugar pine and 9 cedar all 24-36" dbh. I think my buddy who does chainsaw bears is going to buy a couple of logs.

Smoking deal: $1800 for everything. He chips the brush and I split the rounds.

He won't even touch the two close to the house though. I've gotta hire a guy with a boom truck to do those. That's not going to be cheap. I bet those two trees alone will be $500.

Just measured my wood (heh!) and I've got 5 cords pine fir cedar and 2 cords oak. Probably worth buying a cord of hardwood just to stay ahead of the game. I'm feeling a bit like I need to be extra well-prepped for this winter.

[SB]

First two cords cut and split being delivered to my place on Monday. Will be mostly Cherry and Locust.

[glademaster]

I've had all of my firewood for this winter split and stacked since summer 2014....

[bodywhomper]

I halted chainsaw work for a while at my house partially because of the fire hazard and moved onto some other pressibg outdoor projects. In my recent free time, i demoed, reframed, and installed a new roof on my well house - all new skills for me.

My winter wood is in disarray ay the moment. I'm in the middle of moving stacked wood locations. I have a mulch and a debris pile that i need to move that's in the way of the new stacked wood spot. I have a bunch of rounds that need splitting. I have an assortment of logs that need bucking/splitting and moving (pg&e did some maintenance on the easement that was 30+ years deferred). And then i need to assess if i have enough seasoned wood for the winter. At least this year i know what's seasoned and what is green (i dont have one of the moisture meter things).

[bodywhomper]

Mike, that sounds like a great deal for all that tree work. Have you gotten a second opinion about the work near your house? I only ask because of an opinion offered by a close friend who has been doing tree work for 3+ decades. Basically, saying that booms are not necessary for most tree work, with the right climber and ground crew. It all depends, of course.

[~mikey b]

Other contractors I know have looked at them and said the same thing. One actually touches the garage and is 1' from the house. The other is 2' and 4' away respectively. Nobody wants to climb them.

[XXX-er]

cutting a run and the 261 is running fine

[riser4]

Other contractors I know have looked at them and said the same thing. One actually touches the garage and is 1' from the house. The other is 2' and 4' away respectively. Nobody wants to climb them.

Be worth it though to not have (combustible) trees next to the house?