Help! Serious car issue.

**Benny Profane** · 09-23-2012, 07:34 PM

Ok, I'm at the point where I'll look anywhere for advice for fixing this problem.

I own a 2003 Mini Cooper S. Second owner, bought it about 20 months ago with 15,000 miles on it, now has 50,000. Have had a lot of fun with it, and, it was a fantastic value, considering what I paid. Now, it's time to sell. As some know, I want to buy a WRX, a much more serious ski car.

Here's the problem. About 2500 miles ago, the check engine, specifically, emissions light came on. Since then, it has been back to the dealer four times. Three times to one dealer, Mini of Fairfield County, CT., and once, just Friday, to Mini of Baltimore. (I spend a lot of time in Baltimore) The light is still on. I think it's quite obvious that these guys have no clue as to what the problem is, but, it has cost me over 600 dollars to find this out. The first time they reset some sort of computer software that was a recall issue, so, no charge. That lasted about 600 miles, and light back on. Second time, a pump of some sort was replaced (sorry I can't be more specific - tomorrow I will demand a detailed history of what was done). That cost me 400 dollars, and the light was on in 48 hours. Third time, some sort of escape valve was replaced, free of charge (out of embarrassment, by now). Light on in 24 hours. Fourth time, in Baltimore, gas cap replaced (duh, I could of done that) for about 175 dollars, and, not only light back on, but intermittent check gas cap light on. The motherfucker in Baltimore, who wouldn't even let his dick allow himself to call CT., because, of course, he knew better, also told me I needed 800 dollars of front suspension work, or I would crash and burn if I drove the thing any further. I calmly told him to concentrate on one thing at a time, please, before thinking of ways to rape my credit card. I don't think I will be calm with him tomorrow on the phone, because he was so fucking confident he fixed this problem.

Here's why this is such a problem. I want to sell this car now. Not because of this issue, I just want a new car. But, this car is worthless with that light on. I just got it inspected, so, it's worthless to me, even, in ten months, unless this is fixed. Absolutely worthless. Zero, Zip.

So, what do you think is my next step? If you think of it, Mini can just throw up their hands and say, sorry, you're screwed, because this is a ten year old car, and they have no real legal obligation to fix it. But, they do have a reputation to preserve, right? I can at least do my word of mouth best to fuck with them anywhere I can. But, that's getting ahead of the problem. I just want this car repaired. Who do I contact? Somebody high in Mini USA? BMW of America? Who? Could there be private mechanics out there specializing in Minis who may know better? How do I find that mechanic?

I'm also starting a thread here: http://www.northamericanmotoring.com , which may be my best bet - they've saved my ass more than once. But, maybe there's somebody here who has an idea.

Thanks

**Jethro** · 09-23-2012, 07:52 PM

We have a 2000 Subaru outback which does the same thing. You would think the OBD computer check would give an answer, but no luck. When the light started flashing, and the car barely ran we limped it into a garage and had new plugs, wires and distributor installed. A week later the light was back on and a computer check showed no flaw, yet the light was on.

**systemoverblow'd** · 09-23-2012, 07:54 PM

Next time you should make sure you bring a man with you when dealing with car salesmen and mechanics. They take advantage of bitches.

**uglymoney** · 09-23-2012, 07:57 PM

Just guessing here since I'm not a BMW head. What code is it throwing? It could be a code from your rear O2 sensor indicating catalyst system isn't operating efficiently = new cat = expensive = try cheaper solutions first. Have they replaced the O2 sensors??? If it is an emissions light it is ?probably? coming from the rear 02 sensor and that would probably mean you should try to replace the rear one o2 sensor (and front one for that matter if they are both original). Checking for air leaks on exhaust/intake etc. Last resort is an expensive new catalytic converter.

The valve they replaced free was probably your PCV valve since they are cheap. They may have just cleaned it.

With Subaru's some people install a spacer in the rear o2 sensor to get it out of the airstream a little bit in order to keep the light off. Might be something to look into if you just want to get rid of the car and if this is the problem. Go to an autoparts store and have them pull the code for free.

**iscariot** · 09-23-2012, 07:59 PM

I know its a long shot but...

Do you use high octane gasoline?

Sometimes emission sensors in cars will trigger the check engine light if you use high octane gasoline.

If the car is designed to run regular octane, the emission sensors are calibrated to detect a difference between the exhaust coming out of the engine, and then check it against the emissions once its reburned through your catalytic converter. With regular gasoline there will be an emissions difference, and the car registers this as normal, so no check engine light.

If you run high octane gas, which burns cleaner coming out of ths engine, the emission sensor doesn't detect the expected difference between what is coming directly out of the engine, and what is coming out of the catalytic converter, just before it leaves your cars tail pipe. The lack of difference makes the car think you have an emission problem, and will usually code for a catalytic converter. Bing, the check engine light comes on, even though theres nothing wrong.

If this is thd problem, once you switch back to regular gas for 3 tanks or so, the light should turn itself off.

For the body of my post, the "emission sensor" is the O2 sensor, I wanted to keep the language simple, as from the OP it didn't sound like he knew a bunch about cars.

**retirwntm** · 09-23-2012, 08:00 PM

Can't read thru your whole book but if nothing's wrong - have you tried removing the fuses and seeing whether that resets the check engine light? If already addressed, see above and apologies.

**Todd Zander** · 09-23-2012, 08:10 PM

This thread is useless without codes.

**lowsparkco** · 09-23-2012, 08:21 PM

Originally Posted by systemoverblow'd

Next time you should make sure you bring a man with you when dealing with car salesmen and mechanics. They take advantage of bitches.

classic

I had a room mate from Fairfield this is about how he would have handled it

when you get tired of throwing money at the stealership you can buy a code reader for about $40 from autozone or just have them loan you one and check it yourself

then you can google the code

sometimes faulty cpu's throw faulty codes but generally it's a great place to start

you should deal with the same mechanic as the process of elimination is necessary to fix some problems... or you could just go straight to the top

**Benny Profane** · 09-23-2012, 08:28 PM

Originally Posted by iscariot

I know its a long shot but...

Do you use high octane gasoline?

It's supposed to run on high octane.

**Benny Profane** · 09-23-2012, 08:34 PM

Originally Posted by lowsparkco

classic

I had a room mate from Fairfield this is about how he would have handled it

when you get tired of throwing money at the stealership you can buy a code reader for about $40 from autozone or just have them loan you one and check it yourself

then you can google the code

sometimes faulty cpu's throw faulty codes but generally it's a great place to start

you should deal with the same mechanic as the process of elimination is necessary to fix some problems... or you could just go straight to the top

I have a code reader available to me, which I will use tomorrow, but, you would think that this is the first thing the dealer did, right? I mean, read my post, it isn't as though the CT. dealer is really trying to milk me - they haven't charged me for two out of three visits. They really don't know what's up. Essentially, what I have been told, which is true, is that this is a sensor issue - the actual mechanics of the car are fine. I have mentioned the 02 sensors, and been scoffed off for some reason, but that is obviously the next step.

**OSECS** · 09-23-2012, 08:47 PM

Originally Posted by Benny Profane

I have a code reader available to me, which I will use tomorrow, but, you would think that this is the first thing the dealer did, right? I mean, read my post, it isn't as though the CT. dealer is really trying to milk me - they haven't charged me for two out of three visits. They really don't know what's up. Essentially, what I have been told, which is true, is that this is a sensor issue - the actual mechanics of the car are fine. I have mentioned the 02 sensors, and been scoffed off for some reason, but that is obviously the next step.

O2 sensors are a good culprit.

**Alaskan Rover** · 09-23-2012, 08:59 PM

If it was an OLD Austin Mini Cooper, I might be able to help you, but then again you would have to deal Lucas Prince of Darkness Electrics!! These BMW-derived Mini re-dos are so complicated with chips and modules that they can be a real pain in the adze.

But +1 on the code reader. You need to find out what exact code it's giving you, then like the guy above said, google the code.

Your gas tank should be vented. It's rare, but sometimes those vent hoses can get plugged or crimped or kinked....which might also trigger your sensor module.

--

**Jax** · 09-23-2012, 09:02 PM

Originally Posted by Todd Zander

This thread is useless without codes.

POTD and QFT

Pull the codes and go from there. Don't throw any more parts at it until you get a diagnosis. Dealerships are not to be trusted.

**kbahus** · 09-23-2012, 09:25 PM

Without knowing the actual codes, scanned with a BMW/Mini compatible scanner (not generic obd2) I can't provide any advice. If you use a generic OBD2 scan tool it will often miss codes. I have a some experience with the R53 Cooper S models so I might be able to help.

**Bobcat Sig** · 09-23-2012, 09:25 PM

Are you using a stock or OEM air filter?

Often times, an aftermarket such as a K&N unit will have too much oil or will otherwise foul O2 sensors.

**kbahus** · 09-23-2012, 09:30 PM

Originally Posted by Bobcat Sig

Are you using a stock or OEM air filter?

Often times, an aftermarket such as a K&N unit will have too much oil or will otherwise foul O2 sensors.

That is not true, they will foul MAF sensors by depositing a thin coat of oil on the sensor wires, not 02 sensors. Also, the Cooper is speed density, no MAF.

**wooley12** · 09-24-2012, 12:44 AM

First Wold Problem.

Black tape?

Pm coming in June.

**bigdude2468** · 09-24-2012, 07:10 AM

Originally Posted by wooley12

First Wold Problem.

Black tape?

Pm coming in June.

WTF, take it to your local auto parts store, have them read the codes and report back. Also tell us what the diagnosis was on the service report from both dealers, you are asking us to work blind here. While OBD II will generate codes they will not diagnose specifically the problem but will tell you the fault. Forget the O2 sensors, both dealers were chasing an emission leak, valve, pump, gas cap points to that. If it is a emission leak you need to take it to someone that has a smoke machine and they can trace it pretty easily.

**bridge** · 09-24-2012, 07:10 AM

I would take it to auto zone and have them check to see what code it is pulling, (why the light is on), they can give you a good idea of what is going on. Whether or not they can tell you what it is is a crap shoot, but at least you'll know where to start and you can ask you "mechanic" why they didn't fix it in the first place.

Word of advice: Never go into your dealership demanding anything or being rude in anyway. These guys don't give a shit about your car, they are paid buy the job usually and love to take advantage of people. You don't want somebody who is pissed at you under the hood of your car.

**Benny Profane** · 09-24-2012, 07:17 AM

Originally Posted by bigdude2468

WTF, take it to your local auto parts store, have them read the codes and report back. Also tell us what the diagnosis was on the service report from both dealers, you are asking us to work blind here. While OBD II will generate codes they will not diagnose specifically the problem but will tell you the fault. Forget the O2 sensors, both dealers were chasing an emission leak, valve, pump, gas cap points to that. If it is a emission leak you need to take it to someone that has a smoke machine and they can trace it pretty easily.

Fairfield Mini has checked this with their smoke machine, finding no leaks. This is why I went to them in the first place - my local guy, who I trust, told me to, because he doesn't have one.

I will get the code data ASAP and get back.

**Benny Profane** · 09-24-2012, 07:20 AM

Originally Posted by bridge

Word of advice: Never go into your dealership demanding anything or being rude in anyway. These guys don't give a shit about your car, they are paid buy the job usually and love to take advantage of people. You don't want somebody who is pissed at you under the hood of your car.

This is where I am right now, trying not to go off on people. I just want this thing fixed and then out of my life. I want a trouble free Subaru ASAP. Fuck BMW. Why the fuck do people spend so much money to put up with this shit?

On a side note, they gave me a new S coupe as a loaner car in CT. last week. That is one sweet little machine, but, nearly 40 grand!

**OSECS** · 09-24-2012, 08:12 AM

Originally Posted by Benny Profane

On a side note, they gave me a new S coupe as a loaner car in CT. last week. That is one sweet little machine, but, nearly 40 grand!

All part of the grand scheme. Take yer car in, they give you a loaner with that new car smell, then you succumb to the new car smell and buy a new car.

New car smell = crack as rock solid as E= Mc2...........

**Benny Profane** · 09-24-2012, 08:15 AM

Originally Posted by OSECS

All part of the grand scheme. Take yer car in, they give you a loaner with that new car smell, then you succumb to the new car smell and buy a new car.

New car smell = crack as rock solid as E= Mc2...........

Dude, the last fucking car I would buy right now is a BMW product. I don't care if there was a bowl of blow in the cup holder and a $5000 hooker in the passenger seat.

**OSECS** · 09-24-2012, 08:23 AM

Originally Posted by Benny Profane

Dude, the last fucking car I would buy right now is a BMW product. I don't care if there was a bowl of blow in the cup holder and a $5000 hooker in the passenger seat.

Hey I hear ya bro, I sold the last BMW I ever plan on buying, but that new car smell..... (deep inhale) ahhhhhhhhhhh

Final straw for me, high beam switch goes bad. No big deal. I'm sure it's a click in module thingy. No way, The high beams are tied to the speedometer/odometer module. That module available thru a dealer is $500 and to replace it and re calibrate the speedometer/syc. with the odometer is another $600 for a fucking switch to turn high beams on and off.