Help! Serious car issue.

[Benny Profane]

Clear the codes with a scan tool and trade it in at a dealership for a WRX. It takes a while for the codes to come back.

No it doesn't. Took about 20 miles after the last two repairs. Besides, modern readers know the last time codes were cleared. A shop in NY state is not allowed to pass inspection on a car that had it's codes cleared for at least 100 miles.

[refried]

No it doesn't. Took about 20 miles after the last two repairs. Besides, modern readers know the last time codes were cleared. A shop in NY state is not allowed to pass inspection on a car that had it's codes cleared for at least 100 miles.

Wow, NY's getting even worse with thier inspections.

[liv2ski]

I know its a long shot but...Do you use high octane gasoline? Sometimes emission sensors in cars will trigger the check engine light if you use the wrong octane gasoline.

Without knowing the actual codes, scanned with a BMW/Mini compatible scanner (not generic obd2) I can't provide any advice. If you use a generic OBD2 scan tool it will often miss codes. I have a some experience with the R53 Cooper S models so I might be able to help.

Black tape over check engine light?

Clear the codes with a scan tool and trade it in at a dealership for a WRX. It takes a while for the codes to come back.

These are all correct. Negotiate your best deal on the WRX, clear the codes in your car and then take it in and mention you want to trade it in on deal already negotiated. Thatway the trade in doesn't muke up the deal. You will lose a few thousand over selling it yourself, but then again, maybe it is a few thousand to fix and the hassle of selling.

[MakersTeleMark]

Pull the bulb on the CEL. Trade in.

[kbahus]

[QUOTE=Benny Profane;3748378] I want a trouble free Subaru ASAP. Fuck BMW.

/QUOTE]

You don't own a BMW, you own a bastard child Mini, it's not very BMWesque in the grand scheme of things. Also, your statement above made me laugh out loud. You better buy something new with a factory warranty and sell it when the warranty expires.

[Benny Profane]

[QUOTE=kbahus;3748649]

I want a trouble free Subaru ASAP. Fuck BMW.

/QUOTE]

You don't own a BMW, you own a bastard child Mini, it's not very BMWesque in the grand scheme of things. Also, your statement above made me laugh out loud. You better buy something new with a factory warranty and sell it when the warranty expires.

What statement do you speak of? The Subaru is more reliable and trouble free statement? Really?

And, isn't Mini a division of BMW?

[coreshot-tourettes]

Consider selling it in a jurisdiction that does not require inspections.

And also go figure out what code it is throwing and report back.

[refried]

It dosen't have to pass inspection to be sold, you have ten days to get it inspected after you register it. If it dosen't pass you get a three day extension. at least thats how it used to be.

[mastershredder]

you can also clear codes by disconnecting the negative cable from your battery for about an hour till the backup memory runs out, this will tell you if you've fixed whatever sensor is fucking you after you've repalced it! Bad o2 will make your car run fuel rich and give you shit gas milage! knock sensor, fuel pressure sensor, and crank shaft sensor are other suspect bitches! Sometimes it can be a bad ECU if nothing clears the code, in which case the black tape can be a good move

[Dave Marshack]

Man you sound like an absolute bitch. Calm the hell down. Take it to a mechanic pay to get it fixed. It's a 10 year old German sports car... Wtf did you expect. Also subies are great cars but by he means cheap or hassle free. Pull the butt plug out of your ass and go trade the thing in.

[Benny Profane]

code: PO455 Evaporation Control System

[kbahus]

Did a Mini dealer do all of the work, the BMW dealer, or an independent repair shop?

Specifics on the "pump" that was replaced?

Do you get a fuel smell after you fill up?

The P0455 typically means a large evap leak, big enough to be along the lines of a gas cap left off. If the dealer replaced the gas cap with an OEM unit then you can eliminate that. If an indy replaced it with some aftermarket cap I would be suspicious. I would also take a close look at the filler neck assembly, fuel pump access cover (gasket can leak), and the fuel tank area in general for any signs of gas leakage.

[GeezerSteve]

That's usually fixed by replacing the fuel cap. You've already done that, right? Are you sure the ECU has reset the check engine light?

Does your heightened desire to avoid costly repairs affect your decision re turbocharged vs. regularly aspirated Subie?

[Benny Profane]

Did a Mini dealer do all of the work, the BMW dealer, or an independent repair shop?

Specifics on the "pump" that was replaced?

Do you get a fuel smell after you fill up?

The P0455 typically means a large evap leak, big enough to be along the lines of a gas cap left off. If the dealer replaced the gas cap with an OEM unit then you can eliminate that. If an indy replaced it with some aftermarket cap I would be suspicious. I would also take a close look at the filler neck assembly, fuel pump access cover (gasket can leak), and the fuel tank area in general for any signs of gas leakage.

Mini dealer

I don't have real specifics on the pump right now.

No fuel smell.

Dealer in Baltimore replaced the cap with something different than the original cap, which looked OK to me. Now I have the light back on with an intermittent check fuel cap light. Doesn't seem to like this new cap.

Got an appointment for another look see at the Fairfield dealer Thursday. It will probably be free, and he will really really be careful doing the smoke test this time, bit by bit. I also get a loaner car. We'll see on Friday.

[Benny Profane]

Does your heightened desire to avoid costly repairs affect your decision re turbocharged vs. regularly aspirated Subie?

Damn you, but, yes. I got so fucking spoiled driving three Subarus into the ground with minor issues. But, I also got tired of the lesbian jokes.

[GeezerSteve]

I recommend the following:

1. Buy and install a BMW OEM fuel cap, disconnect the negative battery terminal overnight, reconnect in the morning and see if the light comes back on.

2. Reconsider turbocharging on your new Subie : )

[kbahus]

I would definitely replace that fuel cap with one straight from the Mini parts counter. Could have been the problem all along and replacing it with what could possibly be the wrong unit could have not fixed the problem. Sometimes it's the stupid things that get overlooked in the shop. Who knows though, at least they are going to check it out again for you and maybe this time be extra careful.

Also, don't believe for one second that a WRX will be a "trouble free" vehicle. If you are set on one, get it new with a factory warranty and then you can be worry free about out of pocket repair expenses. The R53 has it's share of problems that I can list out for you but a turbo Subaru is a time bomb imo.

[bigdude2468]

code: PO455 Evaporation Control System

Ok, now we are making progress, like I suspected it is an evap leak. The dealer needs to fix this no charge, they have already charged you for parts that you more than likely did not need. This can be a tough one to find, not sure about a Mini but often there are evap components on top of the tank, tough to see. They need to get it up on a lift and smoke hell out of it. If they cycle it they can measure the vacuum pull and see if it holds or leaks. A patient mechanic WILL find it..

[AdironRider]

isn't Mini a division of BMW?

This is like calling a Lambo a VW, only in reverse.

I have two suggestions for you. One, sell the fucker on a enthusiast board like TGR for minis. They usually can put up with these types of bullshit issues compared to some hipster who doesn't know anything other than check engine light = appending apocalypse. Two, trade it in on the WRX and dont spend another dime on it. Dont even change the oil. There is only so much profit on a car sale, you either are going to get a deal on the price of the new car, or your trade, not both. That advice to throw the trade in last second just pisses the sales team off and they offer you shit for the trade. Just be up front, know what you want out the door, and stick to it. I think on a 10 year old mini you're not talking losing thousands on a trade, Id just save the hassle and trade the thing in for the couple g's they'll give you and be done with it.

No dealer is going to pull out their code reader to see when the last time you cleared the code was. Clear it right before you go in, wash it up pretty good, and see what you get. There's a 90% chance they are just going to send it to auction anyways.

[camroc]

This is where I am right now, trying not to go off on people. I just want this thing fixed and then out of my life.

Absolutely, i work in customer service and I can tell you standing your ground and taking your complaint to the top can work. It can be a fair bit of effort and you'll be passed on and told no-one will help but I would try BMW themselves and complain about the dealership. Maybe the will stand behind their product and services with a bit of pressure.

[doughboyshredder]

Next time you should make sure you bring a man with you when dealing with car salesmen and mechanics. They take advantage of bitches.

good one

[1000-oaks]

That is not true, they will foul MAF sensors by depositing a thin coat of oil on the sensor wires, not 02 sensors.

^^ Correct.

[I've seen black diamonds!]

Ok, now we are making progress, like I suspected it is an evap leak. The dealer needs to fix this no charge, they have already charged you for parts that you more than likely did not need. This can be a tough one to find, not sure about a Mini but often there are evap components on top of the tank, tough to see. They need to get it up on a lift and smoke hell out of it. If they cycle it they can measure the vacuum pull and see if it holds or leaks. A patient mechanic WILL find it..

Gas cap (a common cause of evap codes on some cars, not sure about minis) or this ^^^^. Trading in as is isn't a bad idea either, if you're completely fed up, as it seems you are.

[old goat]

Sounds like the dealership in CT is trying to do right by you. If the dealer's mechanics can't fix it odds are you and the internet on not going to fix it on your own. Even though it's a 10 yr old car it's only got 50000 on it--that's still in the break-in period IMO. Next step--especially if dealer stops working with you or wants you to pay more--would be to contact the BMW zone manager. They do care about the car's rep. Probably wouldn't hurt to let them think you want to sell it so you can move up to a BMW.

[stuckathuntermtn]

Tl;dr, but what I've got from this thread is that, not only do you have a British car, but you took it to a dealer...twice.

Sent from my cell phone. no, a cell phone.