Thread: Crampon recommendation (Steel vs. Al, flexible boot compatibility, etc.)

I did a few searches and I saw Mtngirl's thread of the subject, but that was more boot related...

I'm looking to pick up a set of crampons. Realistically they will mostly sit in my pack for occasional use during alpine hikes when I encounter firm snow conditions. They may get occasional use during winter with ski boots, although in general if I'm booting up stuff it's fairly soft spring conditions. Compatible with ski boots (Dynafit Titans w/ tech soles) and flexible boot (my current hiker is an Asolo 520) would be ideal, I can deal with upgrading to a mountaineering boot if the Asolos are insufficient, but I'd prefer not to.

Most of my touring is in the BC coast mountains/PNW, with occasional trips to interior BC. I might use the setup for mountaineering trip down to Baker in the fall.

I'm kind of leaning towards Aluminum or hybrid Al/SS. The main logic being I'm more likely to bring them along 'just in case' if they weigh less.

Here are the crampons I've somewhat narrowed it down to (prices are from the MEC website, I'll shop around a bit more, but although I'd like to be frugal, I'm willing to spend what's necessary to get something decent):
-Grivel Air Tech Light New Classic Crampons ($133/476g)
-Camp XLC Nanotech Newmatic Crampons ($173/558g)
-Camp Stalker Crampon ($108/801g)
-Petzl Charlet Irvis Flexlock Crampons ($126/801g)
-Black Diamond Contact Stainless Steel Crampons ($138/808g)
-Grivel G10 New Classic Crampons with Antibott ($106/830g)

I'm open to others if the collective have other recommendations. I'd appreciate people's thoughts on the different options I've mentioned and what people have found works well for occasional use, primarily in coastal climates.

I have the G10 (aluminum) however not purchased new. Picked them up here (TGR) a while back. I am in Utah and used this pair once as I was booting up suicide shaft on MT superior in July 2011 ( the big snow year ) . Gotta say I am so glad I had them. Even though it was basically summer and late morning after 10:30 I encountered really really hard snow conditions. Knew they were slide for life conditions and ventured off to the side rock bench to put them on.

you already know the tradeoffs al vs steel. If you are just gonna use them in snow opt for aluminum. If you are doing any mixed routes ( rock and snow - ice ) opt for steel.

this is the kind of gear you need.

CAT

I've got the Asolo 520 GTX boots...no clip on crampons fit those boots, so if you want something to fit both your ski boots AND your hiking boots, you're left with strap-ons (not to be confused with the strap-ons that lesbos use).

Aluminum vs. Steel depends on what conditions you're mostly in...if you often have lots of rock and scree underfoot, I'd recommend steel...the tips will stay sharp longer. If you're seeing mostly hard crust and ice, then the alumiinum ones will do fine and save you some weight.

If you do or expect to start doing any ice-climbing, you'll want some pretty gnarly forward-facing points. If not, you can get by without the forward points.

Good companies:

Petzl, Camp, Black diamond ??? < meh (imo).

Of the crampons you list, and for what your describing, I think the CAMP Stalker might be your best bet. They're simple, well adjustable, they'll fit your Asolos fine and with a little adjustment, your ski boots. They're lightweight....have decent points and forward points, and they're fairly cheap compared to the others.



A no brainer...unless you're going to be seeing a lot of rock underneath.

Oh....not sure about Van, but several outdoor clubs in the PNW have gear swap meets. I think even the Mountaineers in Seattle has an annual swap meet. I often see lots of strap crampons and clip-ins at those swap meets. Contact UBC up there, I'm sure they have a large outdoor rec club just like UW...see if they have any swap meets upcoming or perhaps a gear-swap bulletin board.

Crampons are one of those things, like ice axes and such, that you don't need to buy new. You can buy a used $160 set of crampons for as little as $30 ! Goood for other gear to...if you're garing up from scratch.

Good luck.

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Most people will say to go the aluminum route for weight savings, especially if you are just going to leave them in the pack most of the time and will usually just use them for the occasional steep hard snow section.

Personally, I'd go with steel. Almost every time I put my crampons on I encounter at least a little bit of rock. If you are careful on the rock you will be fine, but I ended up bending a front point my Grivel Air Tech Lights (which, by the way, are nowhere near their stated weight...almost double in fact) the second time out while kicking a step through snow and coming into contact with some rocks. I'm exchanging them for the steel version.

Grivels have, IMO, the best antibott. Camps are super light. BDs are always a good choice. I also have the contact strap that I let buddies w/o their own crampons borrow for spring missions. They are good (and compatible with a range of boots; work great on ski or leather boots) but I prefer 12 points.

The aluminums can definitely handle some rock but I'd say its worth the extra weight to have the peace of mind knowing that you can front point on rock if you need to.

Good luck!

Go with the Camp Stalkers. Solid for the price and I get use out of them with both my Asolo FSN95s and my snowboarding boots. I wear a size 12 in both so they are stretched about to the max in my boarding boots but I havent had a problem yet with them. Really easy to adjust on the fly and didn't seem to have snow ball up on them during warmer climbs.

Originally Posted by Powdurr

Most people will say to go the aluminum route for weight savings, especially if you are just going to leave them in the pack most of the time and will usually just use them for the occasional steep hard snow section.

Personally, I'd go with steel. Almost every time I put my crampons on I encounter at least a little bit of rock. If you are careful on the rock you will be fine, but I ended up bending a front point my Grivel Air Tech Lights (which, by the way, are nowhere near their stated weight...almost double in fact) the second time out while kicking a step through snow and coming into contact with some rocks. I'm exchanging them for the steel version.

Grivels have, IMO, the best antibott. Camps are super light. BDs are always a good choice. I also have the contact strap that I let buddies w/o their own crampons borrow for spring missions. They are good (and compatible with a range of boots; work great on ski or leather boots) but I prefer 12 points.

The aluminums can definitely handle some rock but I'd say its worth the extra weight to have the peace of mind knowing that you can front point on rock if you need to.

Good luck!

This^. If you have aluminums you're going to find yourself taking them off for rock, putting on for snow, off for rock--think about spring skiing--ridgelines and windswept areas melted out, chutes still good, etc. Anything steep enough and/or firm enough to warrant crampons warrants and ice axe, and if the snow climb isn't too long cutting steps, if you learn how to do it, is faster than putting on and taking off crampons. Our forefathers climbed big snow and ice walls with an ice axe and no crampons (of course the steps were cut by guides who were woodcutters when they weren't climbing, and the climbing was done with nailed boots instead of Vibram--not much good on rock but a lot better on a slippery cut step.)

Thanks for the advice all.

Originally Posted by Alaskan Rover

Oh....not sure about Van, but several outdoor clubs in the PNW have gear swap meets. I think even the Mountaineers in Seattle has an annual swap meet. I often see lots of strap crampons and clip-ins at those swap meets. Contact UBC up there, I'm sure they have a large outdoor rec club just like UW...see if they have any swap meets upcoming or perhaps a gear-swap bulletin board.

Crampons are one of those things, like ice axes and such, that you don't need to buy new. You can buy a used $160 set of crampons for as little as $30 ! Goood for other gear to...if you're garing up from scratch.

Good luck.

UBC has the varsity outdoors club, which has a pretty solid climbing/outdoors program and runs a few alpine huts. I'm keeping my eye on some swaps/used gear sales. I'm not too picky and have a month or two to pick these up, so I'll see what sort of deals I can find floating around.

Originally Posted by Powdurr

Most people will say to go the aluminum route for weight savings, especially if you are just going to leave them in the pack most of the time and will usually just use them for the occasional steep hard snow section.

Personally, I'd go with steel. Almost every time I put my crampons on I encounter at least a little bit of rock. If you are careful on the rock you will be fine, but I ended up bending a front point my Grivel Air Tech Lights (which, by the way, are nowhere near their stated weight...almost double in fact) the second time out while kicking a step through snow and coming into contact with some rocks. I'm exchanging them for the steel version.

Grivels have, IMO, the best antibott. Camps are super light. BDs are always a good choice. I also have the contact strap that I let buddies w/o their own crampons borrow for spring missions. They are good (and compatible with a range of boots; work great on ski or leather boots) but I prefer 12 points.

The aluminums can definitely handle some rock but I'd say its worth the extra weight to have the peace of mind knowing that you can front point on rock if you need to.

Good luck!

Interesting to know that the Grivel Air Tech's don't quite meet their advertised weight.

Can anyone comment on the advantages to the BD contacts vs. the camp Stalkers? Stalkers are 12 point vs. 10 point, weight is pretty much the same. About the only downside I see to the stalkers is that it's CRMO rather than Stainless Steel.

I have Camp Stalkers and Nanotechs. I use the Stalkers when I know I'll be on rock, or I don't know what the fuck I'll run into. I carry the Nanotechs in familiar places when I know I'll only see snow and ice. If I had to pick one I'd keep the Stalkers. They're just more confidence inspiring. They will rust a bit if put away wet.

CRMO is much easier to sharpen than SS. I would consider CRMO an upside.

10 points are (slightly) less inclined to pack up with snow underfoot, 12 points give you better grip when using french technique or downclimbing when facing away from the slope.

Originally Posted by Neuro

About the only downside I see to the stalkers is that it's CRMO rather than Stainless Steel.

I wouldn't consider that a downside...Chromoly steel is harder and therefore more durable than SS.

I have 5 pairs of crampons, some steel, some Al alloy. My steel 'pons haven't left the gear room for years.

Good fit is most important.

Al alloy 'pons work great for general mountaineering, even if some rock, talus and/or scree is encountered. My Stubai Ultralights have withstood >100 days with substantial rock/talus/scree travel, including 7 days of substantial use in the past month. Anita and a few buds use the Grivel Air Tech Light, a very nice general mountaineering 'pon that packs down small and has a great anti-icing plate. If I were buying 'pons today, I'd get them. Camp has some nice ultralight 'pons -- not sure if anti-icing plates are available for them.

If you are frontpointing and/or doing technical ice, yeah, sure, get steel.

Whatever you get, do yourself a favor and get anti-icing plates.

Originally Posted by Big Steve

I have 5 pairs of crampons, some steel, some Al alloy. My steel 'pons haven't left the gear room for years.

Good fit is most important.

Al alloy 'pons work great for general mountaineering, even if some rock, talus and/or scree is encountered. My Stubai Ultralights have withstood >100 days with substantial rock/talus/scree travel, including 7 days of substantial use in the past month. Anita and a few buds use the Grivel Air Tech Light, a very nice general mountaineering 'pon that packs down small and has a great anti-icing plate. If I were buying 'pons today, I'd get them. Camp has some nice ultralight 'pons -- not sure if anti-icing plates are available for them.

If you are frontpointing and/or doing technical ice, yeah, sure, get steel.

Whatever you get, do yourself a favor and get anti-icing plates.

A crampon quiver.

I'd argue for aluminum all the way. I use Grivel Air Tech Lights for everything that isn't ice climbing. Yes you can screw them up by walking on rocks, and I usually cringe while I'm doing it, but they've held up fine.

I think the alloys out there are good stuff.....and at nearly half the weight of the steel and chromoly steel ones, that is a big difference.

You can always re-sharpen the points when they do dull down.

My first pair of crampons were an old pair of rusty steel 12 pointers that must have been left over from the 10th Mountain Division. I just replaced the rotten straps with new nylon and wire-brushed the points/framework and they lasted for long time. Wish I still had those vintage ones, heavy as they were...they were bulletproof!!!

I bought them at Blondy's Used Outdoor Gear in Fairbanks....not even sure if he's still around. Anybody know?

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