So I'm learning to surf

**shera** · 08-18-2012, 02:35 PM

and it ain't easy. My poor pathetic tired arms, the coral, the rockwall in front of me, wave positioning, the crowds, random different surfboards I'm using, timing, position on the board (I'm always too far forward), tiny summer waves, judging the sets, etc., are all big challenges.

But it's fun. I love it. So hooked. I try to get five rides every day, need to step it up to ten. Pathetic arms.

I see the swell coming from the corner of my eye, head down, paddle hard, and then when it picks me up it's the best feeling in the world. A lot of waves I'm just on my knees, but it's still such a fun ride. I stand up sometimes, trying to understand turning...

Got a big grin on my face.

**icelanticskier** · 08-19-2012, 04:20 AM

good on ya SheRa!

if it were easy it'd be called skiing

. truth.

get as much water time as ya can and don't paddle straight in for waves. learn to know which direction a wave will break and paddle at a slight+ angle into em. it'll get you going down the line much easier/quicker as you progress.

rog

**shera** · 08-19-2012, 02:31 PM

ty

I've got a lot of questions, no time to write them down now though.

**liv2ski** · 08-19-2012, 03:25 PM

Wait...what? SheRa, I thought you had been surfing in Nor Cal? Do yourself a favor, in the beginning, a longboard is your friend in so many ways, just don't let it hit you going over the falls. To this day my rips still hurt if I have had a big meal. Get a board 3+ feet taller than you and just get in all the water time you can. In 3 months you should be doing well and your new found upper body strength will be appreciated by the skiers in the jacuzzi.

**Foggy_Goggles** · 08-20-2012, 12:31 PM

Commit to the pop up. No going to the knees. Have a friend check your board position as you paddle around. Either make a mental note or draw a line/ piece of tape where your nose or chin should be. There are so many things about learning to surf that need to become natural before you can really progress.

**liv2ski** · 08-20-2012, 01:29 PM

Originally Posted by Foggy_Goggles

Commit to the pop up. No going to the knees. Have a friend check your board position as you paddle around. Either make a mental note or draw a line/ piece of tape where your nose or chin should be. There are so many things about learning to surf that need to become natural before you can really progress.

It is good to practice popping up to your feet on solid ground, as it does need to be a pretty fluid motion. Lots of squats will help, as do push ups. I use to put a little blob of wax on the board where my nose needed to be. There are so many little things to it and of course just get out and paddle to build your upper body strength up. It takes time, but it is so worth it.

**Foggy_Goggles** · 08-20-2012, 01:36 PM

I'm not sure how to explain it as I'm pretty kookish myself, but don't rush the pop-up. There is a split second where you can feel the board start to plane out as the wave picks you up. At this point stop paddling like a lunatic and look up and extend your arms. Timed properly, as your board accelerates down the face is when you and your board are most stable. Pop up now in one fluid motion. Concentrate on getting your front foot under your chest and rotating your body enough so that your back foot lands on the center line. Now your surfing!

**shera** · 08-21-2012, 03:42 PM

Thanks for the tips, I'll try to remember tomorrow morning on the water.

I've see people extending their arms. I'll try. Will also try standing up all at once. I had a problem for a while where I didn't put my feet sideways like a snowboarder and couldn't stay up. Too frustrating so I just messed around on my knees, just to have fun. I still have to remind myself to turn out my left foot when I get up (goofy).

As far as boards, all I've taken out the lately is the 11 foot soft top from the surf school. I have an 8 ft costco foam board and some friends with other boards, but that 11 footer is the only one I can manage. The others are too squirrely or tip dive every time. I pretty much suck.

I lived in Monterey county last summer and watched some surfing around Santa Cruz. I didn't mess with it, rode my bike really hard. I've had a couple of beginner sessions in San Diego in years past at Tourmaline and La Jolla and that was fun and I learned something, but I'm really trying to be dedicated here. And nobody is pushing me into the waves now, I'm on my own. I have one friend here that was an instructor, he's been helpful but has staph and isn't in the water. He says my next thing to learn is how to shuffle, or hop, my feet further back on the board.

I have a long way to go with upper body strength. I couldn't even swim well when I got here. And too much kicking around and you'll leave a chunk of meat on the coral, it's all arms. The guy that I kayak with teases me about how weak I am. Considering that he used to race them I don't feel that bad though. Just keep on going. Oh yeah, I didn't even have a full range of motion in my shoulder joints, Vail's "fit to ride" measured it last year. But I'm pretty loose now, can reach out a lot better.

I'm having such a great challenge here on the west side. But in a way it'll feel so good to get back on the snow, just because I'm good at it. But I remember learning. Foggy, you remember too.

**Ottime** · 08-21-2012, 08:17 PM

As far as the pop up goes, think of it in its ideal manner. Strong surfers don't push up so much, rather, they wait for the board to fall down the wave, and they just extend their legs into a stand up position. It can take virtually no energy at all. Similar to skiing, when you let gravity do the work.

**leftfield** · 08-21-2012, 08:50 PM

Nice, congrats!

I've been struggling as well. I thought i had 'learned' after spending a month in hawaii a few years ago. I hardly had to paddle to catch anything there on a big longboard. But having been in australia these last few months, the waves seem 'dumpier' and my board is smaller- it's like starting from scratch. On the plus side, it's mostly beach breaks and not too crowded so i only have to make sure i stay out of the way of my board. Frustrating at times, but i love it. Seeing the sun rise across the froth, spotting dolphins and the occasional humpback make it worth it even if i'm not catching anything.

I too appreciate the tips from everyone, thanks.

**icelanticskier** · 08-21-2012, 09:12 PM

learn to surf like leashes do not exist. keep aware and keep hold of your board at all times. leave the leash off at an uncrowded spot when the waves are small and you'll learn quick as you'll get tired of chasing your board when you mistakenly ditch it.

nothing worse than having a board flying at you when someone kicks out or finishes up a ride and just lets the board go wherever while they jump off. not good form imo. surfing like you have no leash will make you pick better more makeable waves as well.

rog

**shera** · 08-22-2012, 06:28 PM

Ha, I went out one day on a board with no leash - kept such a tight grip on it. You're right.

Today I went to the outside and tried surfing directly in front of the rock wall. If I could just wrap around the corner a little to the right I could get a long ride. But the waves breaks faster and more vertical and I've got a lot of trouble. I did straighten my arms successfully for the first ride. After that I was trying to angle the board to the wave and it was just flipping me over. Wore me out pretty good. Need to fly straight for now I guess.

One nice thing surfing early in the morning is that the water is so clear, you can see the coral and the bright fishes down there nibbling. Very nice.

I'm getting kinda bolder in the lineup, well if you could call it a lineup. More of a junk show really. So I've stopped worrying about it so much and I'm moving in from the fringes. A lot of people out there are aren't catching waves at all, it's like an obstacle course, so if someone is where I want to be, I just go over there anyway or let myself drift into the spot I want. I know I need to behave better in different groups. I try to keep an eye out for the good surfers and stay out of their way, or get next to them and catch the next waves right behind them in the set. Sets a good example for me.

Today I learned that I need to do a better job of falling. I'd like to keep the board right side up even if I fall off so I don't need to take the time/energy to flip it over before climbing back on. Maybe still a chance to catch then next wave right then before paddling back outside. How to do that and still keep a grip on it?

It's good to talk to you guys, even if I don't know you. Interweb peoples.

**icelanticskier** · 08-22-2012, 07:09 PM

maybe angle take off advice was a bit early on my part. maybe cut that angle in half so that at least you are pointed one way or the other just a bit.

it's amazing all of the funky dynamics going on in lineups huh? makes things really interesting that's fer sure.

falling? just go with it. the board will do what it's gonna do. deal with it. if you get used to going leashless, you'll be much more mindful all the way around about you/board awareness. you'll keep it close, even if you fall.

hopefully soon here i'll have an excuse to put my leash back on. we're at 2ft @ 18 seconds right now from a far away system. gonna be rising to 4 ft in coming days with just a bit shorter period. man i can't wait till the surf gets much bigger/easier.

rog

**splat** · 08-26-2012, 01:25 PM

What, you surfing outside the harbor?

Naked surfing pics or it didn't happen.

**fantastic_damage** · 08-28-2012, 08:00 PM

Surfing is definitely extremely slow progression, even tougher when you have to learn in some freezing NorCal water. You have to really put some time in. A few days on a snowboard and you can be boosting airs, that type of progression is not happening with surfing. Even a solid cutback can take years to perfect, which in all actuality is really just a damn turn! Have patience.

Sent from my SPH-D710 using TGR Forums

**shera** · 09-01-2012, 01:32 PM

Originally Posted by splat

What, you surfing outside the harbor?

Naked surfing pics or it didn't happen.

Yeah I have, but don't get too excited - it's been so flat.

It'll be a long time before I'm photo worthy, nekkid or otherwise...

**ak_powder_monkey** · 09-07-2012, 03:23 PM

What I've discovered from my summer of paddling (and ten minutes of surfing) is that trimming your board properly and having correct paddle technique helps a lot. I mean a lot.

**Blizzard7763** · 09-13-2012, 12:57 PM

Is it reasonable to take the board out on flat water to paddle around, or will I look like a JONG?

**Tectonically_Neglected** · 09-13-2012, 02:16 PM

Forget what it will look like. If u think its good for u, ur surfing or for fun, who cares?

**shera** · 09-13-2012, 03:19 PM

Originally Posted by Blizzard7763

Is it reasonable to take the board out on flat water to paddle around, or will I look like a JONG?

Just put a keiki or a dog on the front, or maybe bring a 40 - that's legit.

I'm finally making some progress, which is kinda sad since I'm leaving at the end of the month. My arms have settled in and I can paddle out without exhausting myself. Also, I was trying so hard to turn right because of the rock wall and that was not working really well. But I got a decent left!!! I'm goofy and maybe that's why. The things is you gotta get off the wave before you hit the wall and I hate getting off a wave once I'm up.

I love it, love surfing so much. Completely hooked. Especially drinking all that salt water.

**Ottime** · 09-13-2012, 07:36 PM

Blizzard, any paddling will be helpful. Even better than flat water is a little paddle sprinting in choppy conditions. You will learn how where you lay an move your body effects how the board moves in the water, and the chop will give your core a work out.

**Blizzard7763** · 09-13-2012, 08:48 PM

Cool, I'll give it a shot. we don't get too many days worth going out here, so I'm looking for ideas to accelerate the learning curve. I'm looking forward to a few more sessions before the water turns cold.

**Tectonically_Neglected** · 09-14-2012, 03:52 AM

I did the same: paddling around in minimal/ no waves. you can practice popups (on an extra wobbly board) too! helped me...

**shera** · 09-25-2012, 03:37 PM

Riding a ten foot soft top steadily now, no more 11ft, and switching around with a variety of regular fiberglass shorter boards. I can feel how shorter boards need more speed/energy/bigger wave and I'm learning where I belong on any random board. I've actually had some really exciting rides, swell high as my waist. It's getting back out through the break that shuts me down, wears me out. But I get stronger every day. Yesterday I had bigger wave closing out on me but I was so determined for the ride that I've got a death grip on the rails and I'm just trying to see through this wall of water to stay level with the horizon. Spit me out and I was up! Wave petered out immediately though. Maybe on of these days I'll get good enough to be on the point where the wave is just curling over. One time I was there by sheer accident yesterday, so excited, but I screwed up the angle of the nose and dived. Bummer.

I'm just barely starting to develop some eyes in the back of my head, trying to see what's going on behind me while I'm still paddling land trying to stay in the right direction and not run over any children.

Still can't turn at will. So frustrating. I have some pics riding the inside and it looks like I've always got all my weight on my front foot. Maybe it's a skiing thing. But people are telling me I need to use my back foot. Is it like a skateboard when you flip the front up and swivel it on the back wheels alone?

It feels really good that everyone here knows me as a surfer now, even if I'm sooooooo bad. It's a supportive bunch at the Lahaina breakwall. Got a popup at least.

One good thing, I ain't skeered of the speed when I get really surged at the beginning of a good wave. Like hooking into the rubber band on a flight deck or something. So exciting and fun. So I love the speed and energy. Excited to ride as big as I can manage someday.