Thread: So I'm learning to surf

Originally Posted by SheRa

Hehe, if you only knew how much climbing I've done - countless days, countless mountains. More than anything else really. But not with ropes, with my skis on my back. And it seems I'm using my legs for all of that. There's a climbing wall at the rec center and I guess I could try hauling myself up it with my arms the same way I'm swimming with only my arms to get them stronger.

I do hit the deck and bust out 15 pushups whenever it occurs to me.

I've finally made the transition to skiing and climbing my beloved Colorado mountains and it's a happy groove. The beach seems very far away right now.

Heh ... I guess I should have been more specific.

I've been in Lahaina about 6 days now. Bought 2006 Dodge caravan, 9' long board and 12'6' SUP.

Caught about 20 waves on SUP today. Ate shit a bunch, skittered off reef a few times, saw serious bikinis up close...

In short, I am addicted.

but, have you discovered Leotta's cafe for post session grinds?

Originally Posted by tgray

but, have you discovered Leotta's cafe for post session grinds?

Oh do tell, I keep waking up at 5 and it is dark for another hour. I figure i am on the 20 year learn to surf program, any bit of info helps!

Leotta's cafe/bakery; head south toward Kihei, at Olowalu general store pullout to the left Leotta's is on the south end of the building, best food around after a surf session try one of the pot pies, beef, chicken or vegetarian, but the pastries are killer, depending on the swell direction the surfing in that area can be fun too!, A little envious here, In another hour I'm going to be up on a roof helping a buddy, sheath and getting his house "dried in " icy and cold, my mantra is " 30 days and I'll be in Maui,,, 30 days,,,,30 days,,,30 days

Originally Posted by carpathian

I've been in Lahaina about 6 days now. Bought 2006 Dodge caravan, 9' long board and 12'6' SUP.

Caught about 20 waves on SUP today. Ate shit a bunch, skittered off reef a few times, saw serious bikinis up close...

In short, I am addicted.

Haha, you'll get used to the bikinis I guess. It's just no big deal having your ass hanging out all day. It's kinda funny when you see these random tourist chicks with their strange getups that show some awkwardness about the state of their thighs or stomachs or whatever.

Where are you surfing?

Honestly I'm happy to be in the cold again and at high altitude. Bracing! But I'm watching my awesome tan fade and fade. Gonna start all over again next year with nothing but a goggle tan.

Originally Posted by SheRa

Haha, you'll get used to the bikinis I guess. It's just no big deal having your ass hanging out all day. It's kinda funny when you see these random tourist chicks with their strange getups that show some awkwardness about the state of their thighs or stomachs or whatever.

Where are you surfing?

Honestly I'm happy to be in the cold again and at high altitude. Bracing! But I'm watching my awesome tan fade and fade. Gonna start all over again next year with nothing but a goggle tan.

Three hours building concrete forms, an hour in the DMV and four more hours at Launepoko. Not bad for a day! It is the home break i guess, we are three minutes up the hill. The board is actually an 11'6". 20x waves knee to waist high brah!

Is counting waves cool? What about aqua socks on the sup? Mixing gay with gay to much? Seriously they seem like a good idea in the super shallow, rocky water. But I suppose you should not be crashing in the first place...

Check in Maggots at the TGR outpost in Kahului.

Free expresso's!

Look for the "Believe" sticker

Originally Posted by carpathian

Three hours building concrete forms, an hour in the DMV and four more hours at Launepoko. Not bad for a day! It is the home break i guess, we are three minutes up the hill. The board is actually an 11'6". 20x waves knee to waist high brah!

Is counting waves cool? What about aqua socks on the sup? Mixing gay with gay to much? Seriously they seem like a good idea in the super shallow, rocky water. But I suppose you should not be crashing in the first place...

Launiupoko! I'm jealous. It really was a pain not having a car last summer. Not the arbiter of cool, but I counted waves for sure. As far as reef shoes, I bought some, but never really used them. to carry. Less is more. I did cut my feet open on the coral and you have to take that very seriously or it will not heal. Go to the nearest hose and flush out every bit of whatever's in there. Then neosporin and seal it up with bandaids. Repeat every time you get out of the water. At night clean it and use peroxide to dry it out, don't use a bandaid at night after the first night.

Everybody crashes. The coral will get you. I saw plenty of people with wounds that just wouldn't heal. So scary. One chick went to the hospital for a week with something called Mercers(?) that antibiotics couldn't respond to.

3 months in, 3 to go. Air temp 82, water temp 75, beer temp 35. 85 days or so in the water. Traded the 11'6' Coreban for 10' naish 32" wide. Bought 10' Second Wind 26" shred stick. Learning, learning with the occasional wave punch in the face. Searching for the rogue gnarlers, watch for sea turtles!

Dropping!



Just kidding here I am on typical wave...







I still get a kick out of sitting in the AC and then forgetting how hot it is outside...

If you learn to surf in just 20 years, then you are doing good. With our current lack of cold and fluff, I wish I was in the warmth, surfing in trunks and being distracted by thigh bits on touristas in their awk bikinis. Sounds like the good life to me

I tried surfing for the first time in Costa Rica a couple weeks ago at Playa Grande. I popped up and stayed up to the beach on the first foam pile I tried. After about 1/2 hour I caught a wave and was hooked. Then I was paddling like mad for a wave and my shoulder gave out (partial disco). Surf instructor gave it a yank and it popped back into place and I kept going. I caught about 3 more green waves and popped my shoulder out 3 more times over the next hour. I should have stopped after the first time but was too keen (stupid) to catch more waves. My shoulder was slightly out of place for the next 2 days until I went zip lineing and it gave a little pop and felt much better. Time to start doing some shoulder work to make it strong enough for this sport cause it is a fucking gas.

My 3 daughters were stoked too. My oldest managed to pick it up fairly well but surprisingly the to family athlete wasn't that good at it. It was good to see my book worm daughter out getting at it.

I've been throwing down pushups whenever it occurs to me. No gym time required. I'm also doing handstands against the wall and trying to do those pushups. So hard - started with maybe just an inch drop and now down to about 4". My son can put his head on the ground and come all the way up. I'm also swimming laps when I can, for like half an hour.

Hoping that gives me a head start on the summer. Last year was a pathetic sh!tshow.

So are you going to dedicate to surfing? It is so fun, but it sure does require a lot of time in the water. Well for me anyway - slowest learner of all time.