Thread: Im coming out of the closet and I need road bike recomondations

I considered starting an alias for this post.

I rode my friends road bike and it was surprisingly fun. In three pedals I was doing 23mph and I started thinking about buying one. I like the exercise aspect too and I might give a tri a go as well. It will have lots of gears and freewheel.

Im 6'5" so In know I need a big bike but what is a decent older road bike that I can find on CL. Im not trying to spend more than $800, is that crazy?

Thanks in advance.

Hah, welcome to the dark side.

You can find something decent on CL for $800, but you're probably limited to steel or aluminum frames at that price, likely with a Shimano drive train (personally I like Shimano, but it doesn't have the zoot factor of Campy if you're into that). Shimano's road component sets go like this:
-Meh (Tiagra, Alivio, etc.)
-105 (solid and usable, not quite as nice fit and finish)
-Ultegra (shiny and sexy)
-Dura Ace (shiny, sexy and lighter)

In your price range, I'd expect 105 parts, but if you look around you might get something with a sprinkling of Ultegra parts.

The big challenge for you will be finding a frame that fits you -- you might wait quite awhile for something big enough to come up on Craigslist. I'll probably get shit on for suggesting this, but if you're in a hurry, you should check out Performance Bike (aka, the enemy of all LBSs). Going retail will give you a better chance of finding something in your size. They start clearance pricing during their Labor Day sale, and should have at least a few models in your price range.

I bought a nice '07 Madone with Ultegra for $1100 and put a couple thousand miles on it, then I bought an sb-66c and it's been sitting ever since. 2 wheels are always fun (even if it's a 2-wheeled dolly ), but dealing with cars and the roadie culture isn't my favorite. Depending on your level of patience, you'd do well to look at CL and find something used for a great price.

Bill Walton was in the last century i rode, so pretty sure there's a frame out there for ya... Start here: http://www.bikeforums.net/forum.php

I was a Dura Ace guy for many of my racing years then switched to Campy and there was no going back. That being said, I'd look for something with Ultegra. For your size, I'm not sure how well the 105 stuff will hold up especially if you get on some major climbs or start hammering away on the big ring. Finding something with a CF fork might be worthwhile too.

So, you are asking roadies (or riders with road experience) for advice by saying that roadies are gay? .... Get the "blew" one tough guy. Plenty of options on CL.

Just curious what your buddy's bike that got you interested cost? You might get something decent on CL for $800.00, or you might get something that will make you hate road riding.

Do you know anyone directly that knows anything about road bikes? If so, I'd ask them to tag along when you see something that looks like a good deal. Some good bikes on CL, and some complete pieces of shit. Buyer beware.

Thanks for the info.

Im not sure what my buddies cost? Im guessing $2k? It looked really nice cold be more.

I actually know a good bit more now.


What size in CM is a Large or XL?

Heh, I made the jump a few weeks ago as well. It will be a confusing time but stay strong.

I picked up a few year old specialized allez for next to nothing (traded my town mtb) with a mix of tiagra and 105. The tiagra brifters aren't very good, I'd look for at least 105. At your size you're probably on a 58-60cm+ frame, depending on proportions.

I'm tall too

Cannondale makes a 63cm frame
Felt seems to have dropped 63cm frames from their recent lineup, older frames tho may be available in that size
Giant's XL size is also a possibility

Trek probably has a 63 too - tho I'm not a fan for no good reason

105 gruppo or better - accept no less

Just saying, a decent aluminium frame is better than most low end carbon frames. Shiman's 105 does it, no need to go Ultegra these days especially since the STIs on latter got flimsier compared to a few years ago.

Go to one or two shops, collect a few recommendations/ideas- sometimes they sell second hand bikes on behalf of their good customer base, don't be shy to ask for it. The fit is what matters most so make sure you get a proper one from s.o. with experience if you can't do it on your own.

Originally Posted by Hicks

Just saying, a decent aluminium frame is better than most low end carbon frames. Shiman's 105 does it, no need to go Ultegra these days especially since the STIs on latter got flimsier compared to a few years ago.

THIS^^^^^^^^^^^^^

been a shop guy for 20 years and i'd never buy higher than 105. no need unless you just gotta burn that cash. aluminum? big fan here. i've ridden and owned em all. carbon is nice, but a lot more money just to own a plastic frame. i'm very happy on my alu frame.

63cm sounds bout right, but ya could be a 61cm depending on manufacturer/model.

i highly recommend cannondale for your price range/size requirements. i don't sell cannondale btw, but i really like them.

enjoy!

rog

tire choice matters much more than the frame choice for ride quality(goes with MTB as well IMO)

http://www.nashbar.com/bikes/Product...21&cagpspn=pla

these guys with some Maxxis padrones mounted tubeless while expensive will give a 800 dollar AL frame a better ride than some guy with a multi thousand dollar carbon frame on over inflated tubed tire..

^are you running tubeless on your road bike?
anyone else?
just curious as to how much better the ride is, and how many lbs your running.
i've been running 98lbs into Michelin Pro Races for like 15 year's or so.
they work well, other than the lack of tread life.

still running tubes here. no complaints. i run maxxis re-fuse 700x25c tires @ about 105 psi.

great tires! super durable, grippy, and not too pricey. i spend A LOT of time on dirt/gravel roads with em too.

rog

I rented a road bike on holidays a while back. Opus something or other. Nice little Alu bike that was pretty cheap retail price. Rode surprisingly well and I've never been an alu guy. Not a carbon guy either. Pretty much always steel or now Ti. Don't know what the rest of their line is like but bang for the buck they seem a winner. That being said I'd look at steel options too. In your size I'd avoid carbon....it just won't last and buying it used it's likely already softened. A LOT of alu bikes ride harsh like riding a beer can so be careful there. A carbon fork would be a must on an alu bike... or any other bike too really.

I have a cannondale cad 10 w/ 105
Tires usually Michelin Pro race or conti 4000s

At 6-5, 200#, I pump up to 110psi year round

I got a Felt aluminum frame with carbon fork and rear for about $700 a few years ago off craigslist. Ultegra group and a pretty nice all around setup. I felt like I got a pretty good deal. Just keep your eyes on CL for a few weeks and something will pop up. Sounds like you are in the same price range that I was looking at.

I'm 6'2" and got a 60cm frame. It was a little big on me so I bought a shorter stem. Sounds like you'd fit a 60cm frame pretty well but it's all personal preference too. Are you comfortable being all stretched out in a more performance position, or do you want to be more comfortable sitting up for longer tours? I'm no fit expert, but this is what I gathered from my experience.

Just my observations (over quite a few years) fwiw:
Today's alu frames (and carbons of course) are significantly more rigid than steel frames due to design. It's notable particulary on the climbs, so if you are an ambitioned rider it matters. I'd mainly consider steel for a commuter ride these days. For overall riding comfort the influence of the frameset is often overhyped. A comfortable saddle, double taped handlebar and a low profile rim with high spoke count mostly does a better trick here.

Since you seem to be a big guy I wouldn't recommend going tubeless on a roadie. Although not frequently occurring there are reports of instant deflation when hitting holes which is nasty while cornering. With your total budget of $ 800 you are unlikely to score a tubeless wheelset anyway.

Originally Posted by icelanticskier

still running tubes here. no complaints. i run maxxis re-fuse 700x25c tires @ about 105 psi.

great tires! super durable, grippy, and not too pricey. i spend A LOT of time on dirt/gravel roads with em too.

rog

same tire/inflation here. Love 'em, durable and not that spendy...

Originally Posted by Hicks

For overall riding comfort the influence of the frameset is often overhyped. A comfortable saddle, double taped handlebar and a low profile rim with high spoke count mostly does a better trick here.

word. Took the old Avocet Touring II saddle off the old trek, looks clunky but i can ride 8-9 hours without discomfort.

Lots of solid advice in this thread.

I race a Caad9 with ultegra mostly so I'm not crying if/when I trash the frame. Recently switched to Kenda's race tire and really, really like them. I run them around 110 rear and 100 front. I'm 160 lbs. I use low profile rims with 28 spokes (wheelset is still pretty light at 1400 grams). I find the ride quality of my bike to be great. No saddle fatigue on those 3 plus hour rides.

Best of luck getting into road biking. Pick and choose your roads to avoid traffic. GET FITTED to the bike. Work on your core strength to become more comfortable on it.

Originally Posted by L7

I rented a road bike on holidays a while back. Opus something or other. Nice little Alu bike that was pretty cheap retail price. Rode surprisingly well and I've never been an alu guy. Not a carbon guy either. Pretty much always steel or now Ti. Don't know what the rest of their line is like but bang for the buck they seem a winner. That being said I'd look at steel options too. In your size I'd avoid carbon....it just won't last and buying it used it's likely already softened. A LOT of alu bikes ride harsh like riding a beer can so be careful there. A carbon fork would be a must on an alu bike... or any other bike too really.

The notion that carbon gets soft over the years is a myth perpetuated by steel crusaders, and retrogrouches.

Cannondale Aluminum bikes are legit. Probably the best aluminum frames out there.
I caution you, as a taller individual, to look at headtube length. Especially on older frames, headtubes were shorter than today's trend which could really suck.

I would not recommending buying a smaller frame that is "close enough" with a longer stem due to that headtube height situation.

Originally Posted by XtrPickels

I would not recommending buying a smaller frame that is "close enough" with a longer stem due to that headtube height situation.

Slight diversion ...

Pickles, my back is not especially parallel with the ground when I'm in the drops. This isn't because of comfort, but because of the height of the bars and the size of the frame and the drops. At 5'8" with the leg length of 30in, I ride a 54"caad9 with a 10mm stem, no stackers under the stem. Seat height is right on (can't go higher without rocking hips). Fits great, super comfy, and allows me to get reasonably aggressive. I can potentially go to a 52 and use a longer stem and achieve very close to the same setup but with lower bars. Other than potential back problems (which I'm not too worried about), what else should I look out for? For example, will the bike get really twitchy with a shorter top tube, longer stem?

Originally Posted by huckbucket

Slight diversion ...

I can potentially go to a 52 and use a longer stem and achieve very close to the same setup but with lower bars. Other than potential back problems (which I'm not too worried about), what else should I look out for? For example, will the bike get really twitchy with a shorter top tube, longer stem?

What really affects handling is wheelbase and fork angle/rake. As you turn the bars the effective wheelbase changes and how fast this change occurs makes the bike "twitchy" or not.

Changing the stem and bar setup will feel a bit weird at first, but you rapidly adjust. However, at your dimensions I'm not sure how much of a "flat back" you can achieve without significantly compromising performance. Is your leg length really 30" or is that your pants inseam size?

If you want a deeper drop, you might look into getting bars with a more significant drop. Many modern bars are pretty shallow these days. Also taking a higher rise stem and flipping it over will give you more drop. Can you ride comfortably in the drops with bent arms? That should allow you to get as low as you want. If you can't working on your core strength/flexibility and tweaking the fore/aft balance so you can might help a lot more than a new bike.

Poke around the cycling racing sites and take a look at the positions of guys your size, very few will have a completely flat back like the larger riders can achieve.