Results 26 to 37 of 37
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07-31-2012, 11:44 AM #26
Do you even get your chain slapping?
The stinger is a tensioner. I just keeps your chain from bouncing around. That helps with not only chainslap but also just keeping your chain on your rings.
It won't do any good with 3 rings though, they're made for 2 (at least the ones I've been using). Drop that big ring off, throw a bash guard on there, switch that middle ring for a 36t, and then get either a stinger or a dual ring guide from gamut or e.13. Life will be good.STRAVA: Enabling dorks everywhere to get trails shut down........ all for the sake of a race on the internet.
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07-31-2012, 12:15 PM #27
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It pains me to pull off a mint condition XT shadow, but I think I am going to get one of the new XT clutch derailleurs instead of a Bionicon dangler thing or chain guide.
Might also shorten the chain so I can't use the 36 rear and 36 front on my 2x10. I've been dropping the chain off the big ring into the inner far too often recently. Did a ride on Sunday with a buddy riding a 1x10 on a hardtail and all he had was a clutch rear derailleur and his chain never came off the front.
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07-31-2012, 12:21 PM #28
Those derailleurs are schweeeeeeeeeeeeet.
I've only seen the shimano ones but unless the sram ones are just as good, my next drivetrain purchases will be shimano........after avoiding that mess like the plague for the last 8 years.STRAVA: Enabling dorks everywhere to get trails shut down........ all for the sake of a race on the internet.
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07-31-2012, 12:24 PM #29
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07-31-2012, 01:00 PM #30
It may help, but it won't stop it. My chain still rattles against the cage sometimes. If I wanted zero noise from my bike, I'd ride a road bike...
Originally Posted by Odin
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07-31-2012, 02:00 PM #31
That is a good question. I don't know. I thought it was the rear mech too slow causing chain slack that slapped the chain stay, but I not exactly knowledgeable here.
Originally Posted by blurred
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07-31-2012, 03:20 PM #32
pump track nation
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FWIW
I tested out the Bionicon C Guide v2 (http://www.bionicon.com/ac/c-guide-v02).
It does look a little hokey - it is slightly hokey. I mean, all it is, really, is a plastic tube that the chain slides through. This tube hangs off the chainstay with zipties. There is a 'pivot' at the plastic tube that lets it rock up and down in terms of being better oriented towards chainrings or cassette. There is also a certain amount of side-to-side pivoting built into the chainstay mounting setup that allows it to align widthwise to the different gears - front and rear.
It does work. It quiets things down, can help keep the chain from glancing into the spokes and keep it off the chainstay under normally heavy slapping conditions. It also helps keep things tensioned (a little) and probably aids a little in just keeping from dropping the chain (a little). However, it doesn't work really well. You'll still get noise, chainslap, side to side movement in the chain, chain dropping. All of this is, of course, subject to the terrain you're riding, how smooth you are, how well you have the "guide" setup, how well the drive train is aligned, and all of those things. The C Guide is definitely NOT a replacement for a proper guide. Especially one with lower and upper tension/guide features. If you're riding hard through rough terrain, you can still drop a chain. You still get slapping. Depending on gearing and chain length, you still get the chain moving around a lot. Just less than running without it the "guide".
The C Guide will eventually break. I never experienced a failure of the major components (the plastic tube or the metal cage/clip thing that it attaches to). But I did break the plastic part used as a mount for fixing it to the chainstay. It came with two. I broke one on the second ride (completely destroyed that piece), and I broke the second after many miles, many thousands of feet of climbing & descending, and after lots of abuse. I cobbled it back together with extra zipties, patience, and creativity. It lasted a while longer, but it's kind of ghetto that way.. The plastic mounting system used to fix to the chainstay is fragile. It may have to be as a breakaway so the rest of it doesn't get mangled, but that's still a bummer.
In the end, if I raced XC on smooth tracks, it might work for me. But I'm riding rough terrain (not always that smoothly), probably don't spend enough time to get things 100% perfectly aligned, and just mash. It might have survived someone with more care and patience.
The result after all that; I'm done with it. Going 1x10 with a MRP Lopes guide. I'm just over dropping chains. I dropped a chain in my Super D stage in Snowmass during the enduro stage race. I did it while climbing (three times!!) on the Steamboat enduro race. Part of that was timing with shifts and all, but still. I'm done dropping chains. I will miss the big shift in gearing that you benefit from with two chainrings, but I'm just going to keep it simple.
End of my not-really-solicited-opinion.
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07-31-2012, 07:39 PM #33
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I moved from a 9 spd setup to a 10 spd setup specifically to be able to use the Shadow Plus clutch. It works awesome and has definitely quieted down the bike. Originally I thought I would be turning the clutch off for climbs (and frequent shifting) but I've ended up just leaving it on all the time.
FWIW, the 2013 lineup that is basically available now has the clutch all the way down to the slx pricepoint.
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07-31-2012, 07:50 PM #34
Originally Posted by blurred
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07-31-2012, 08:01 PM #35
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My last post wasn't directed at you, but for your Meta 55 a bb mount Stinger should work fine.
But you're right, with your bikes elevated chainstays most of your slap is coming from the top of the chain, not the bottom. Keep on pedaling and maybe a bigger gear may help. That 'll keep tension on the top of that chain...
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08-01-2012, 11:14 AM #36
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08-01-2012, 12:51 PM #37
pump track nation
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XT level available? I thought it was not for some reason...












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