Thread: Drivetrain JONG needs to replace rear derailleur and broken hanger.

Hit a small stick (1" dia) which somehow managed to jam in the r/d, snap the hanger, and dump the whole mess into my rear wheel. Gotta replace the hanger for sure. The derailleur is pretty banged up, sightly bent, and one of the pulley gears got bent and has a massive gouge right through a couple teeth.

Seeing as it was only a low end XT I feel I should probably just replace it. It shifter pretty crappy since day one.


My jong part concerns the shifter. Its a shimano deore. I assume I can only use that shifter with a shimano r/d right? Can't intermix with sram correct?


I NEED to ride so I gotta order stuff today and replace it all by tuesday night if I can.

You can mix sram and shimano but it is not recommended.

sent from the future using my mind powers

If you've got an XT derailleur and a Deore shifter, it is likely the shifter that makes it shift like garbage. Better to have a quality shifter and a crappy mech than vice versa. But yeah a shimano shifter won't work with a sram mech so you've either got to replace the two together or go with another shimano to match your shifter. I think only the real low end sram stuff works with shimano shifters. While you're at it, it might not be a bad idea to replace the cable and housing too. Another possible solution to poor shifting.

yup Birdman is right. Also check the chain for bent links in the chain, and the wheel for damaged spokes.

Originally Posted by birdman829

If you've got an XT derailleur and a Deore shifter, it is likely the shifter that makes it shift like garbage. Better to have a quality shifter and a crappy mech than vice versa. But yeah a shimano shifter won't work with a sram mech so you've either got to replace the two together or go with another shimano to match your shifter. I think only the real low end sram stuff works with shimano shifters. While you're at it, it might not be a bad idea to replace the cable and housing too. Another possible solution to poor shifting.

^^^^this.

Shimano/SRAM only works when you have SRAM f. Shifter and shimano f der, or like he says above, low end SRAM( they are labeled mrx).

Xt is great stuff. py shifting is coming from something else...Deore shifter, mucked up housing, tweaked hanger, heavily worn drivetrain or some combination thereof.

Cassette/chainrings all seem fine. I think the derailleur can be repaired with a new pulley. Planned to replace the chain anyway.

anyone wanna recco a better shifter? Especially one that may be on sale on huck, jenson, cambria, etc.

Originally Posted by Whiteroom_Guardian

Cassette/chainrings all seem fine. I think the derailleur can be repaired with a new pulley. Planned to replace the chain anyway.

anyone wanna recco a better shifter? Especially one that may be on sale on huck, jenson, cambria, etc.

edit to add: Where can I buy replacement pulleys?

Most of the places you mentioned like Jenson and Blueskycycling will have them. And Your LBS may have a few spare so that you can get on the trail in the meantime. From what I gather there does not seem to be much difference between SRAM and Shimano pulleys for 8/9/10 spd derailleurs.

Originally Posted by Whiteroom_Guardian

Cassette/chainrings all seem fine. I think the derailleur can be repaired with a new pulley. Planned to replace the chain anyway.

anyone wanna recco a better shifter? Especially one that may be on sale on huck, jenson, cambria, etc.

If you're using 9-speed, I just built a bike with these LX shifters and rear derailleur:
http://www.jensonusa.com/Shimano-LX-...igger-Shifters
http://www.jensonusa.com/Shimano-LX-...ear-Derailleur

Works fine. Shifters aren't as crisp as XT or higher, but for the price...

SLX 9 spd rear only, from Tree Fort. 45 bucks and should ship a bit quicker to the dirty jers than some of the west coast shops. http://www.treefortbikes.com/#navbar...222375196___96

And you might as well add one of these in pretty colors: http://www.treefortbikes.com/#navbar...22338186___732

Thanks for all your help so far.

At first I was gonna buy it all online, but I decided I would rather help out my LBS and get the right stuff while I am at it.

Apparently my r/d is a 10spd, but my bike only has a 9spd cassette? Huh?

Bike specs are exactly as seen here:

http://2011.konaworld.com/bike.cfm?c...=tanuki_deluxe

Why would they do this? Is there a 9 spd version of that XT derailleur? I sure as hell can't find any info online.

Local LBS is gonna do me a solid and take pulleys off a derailleur on the shop floor, but maybe it shifted crappy cause it had the wrong shit all this time?

M772 is the most recent and likely the last of the 9 speed XT rears, still made and readily available. M780 and up are 10 speed XT rears. If they spec'ed a 10 RD on a 9 cassette stock they should be shot (the one in the pic on the link is definitely a 9 speed XT rear).

Ok, its definitely the m772 then. The pulleys from the 10 speeds are the same anyway.

Gonna upgrade the shifter/cable and chain while I am at it.

I had the same setup - 9 speed, XT rear, Deore shifters. Just upgraded to XTR shifters, HUGE difference. The shifter pairs come with nice housings and cables too, so if you need to replace those anyway, you can convince yourself you're getting a deal that way.

So after installing the new hanger I put on a new chain and totally adjusted my front and rear derailleurs. Shifts great for the first 6 miles of trail and then goes to shit. Skipping gears, getting stuck in gears, etc. Would just new cable make a difference, or do the crap deore shifters need to go too?

It could be the cable/cable housing is shit. Add a bit of lubricant to the cable housing and slide the cable housing along the length (only the length where the cable and cable housing contact each other) so it can get a nice coating. This is more of a troubleshooting suggestion that works as a bandaid till you get new. If the lubricant helps significantly then that is your problem most likely. You will need cable/cable housing very soon. Lubricant will help grit and shit gather there now that you have added it, thus making it return to shitty shifting quickly.

Though a little readjustment may work wonders. Even though the cables are likely are broke-in, the new derailleur also needs to settle in and loosen up a bit. So you can figure on some adjustment for a little bit. I would try adjustment first. Then cable/cable housing work. Then replacing shit.

Cable/housing is more likely to be the culprit that the shifters themselves I would think. Replace the housing and cable, or try dropping a little lube down in the housing. Also might want to lube the pivots on the derailleur and work it back and forth a lot. But if only the pulleys on the derailleur were replaced, it could be that the parallelogram part is out of whack too and you need a new one. Simplest thing would be to double check the cable tension though and make sure its adjusted properly.

EDIT: Yeah, basically what he said ^

I installed all new cable/housing for both front and rear. Even added a couple drops of lube to each housing before threading cable. Seems to shit alot better, but got shut out of a ride tonight because of work so no true on-trail testing yet. We'll see.

shitty shifting? always check/replace cables/housings 1st. deore level shifters/derailleurs are as good as most anyone would ever need. anything higher is excessive. we used to use the term "LX FACTOR" back in the day. lx, like deore just plain works well when properly adjusted. no need to go higher imo.

sram attack shifters work awesome with shimano 8/9 speed derailleurs.

rog

Now I am thinking my rear derail is bent. Rode 10 miles today. New cables/housing, new chain, fully degreased and re-lubed, cassette and chainrings look straight and the teeth are not very worn. Shifted fine, but wanted to slip gears on climbs when in the middle chainring.

Got home and fully checked all cables, adjusted for stretch, checked H,L,B screws again, etc.

Any surefire way to check if my rear derailleur has a bent arm? I am being stubborn and want to learn all this stuff w/o having to throwdown at the LBS.

Originally Posted by Whiteroom_Guardian

Now I am thinking my rear derail is bent. Rode 10 miles today. New cables/housing, new chain, fully degreased and re-lubed, cassette and chainrings look straight and the teeth are not very worn. Shifted fine, but wanted to slip gears on climbs when in the middle chainring.

Got home and fully checked all cables, adjusted for stretch, checked H,L,B screws again, etc.

Any surefire way to check if my rear derailleur has a bent arm? I am being stubborn and want to learn all this stuff w/o having to throwdown at the LBS.

Your lbs or maybe a local mag should have a tool that measures if the der is straight or not.

Originally Posted by Whiteroom_Guardian

Now I am thinking my rear derail is bent. Rode 10 miles today. New cables/housing, new chain, fully degreased and re-lubed, cassette and chainrings look straight and the teeth are not very worn. Shifted fine, but wanted to slip gears on climbs when in the middle chainring.

Got home and fully checked all cables, adjusted for stretch, checked H,L,B screws again, etc.

Any surefire way to check if my rear derailleur has a bent arm? I am being stubborn and want to learn all this stuff w/o having to throwdown at the LBS.

Shift into the biggest cog in the back, stand behind the bike and look at the cage. It should be perpendicular to the ground. If it looks off, it could be the cage(kinda obvious looking bend) or the knuckle/parallelogram or the hanger. If the cage looks bent, give it a go. If it looks unbent, but is hanging at a weird angle, its the rest of the derailleur and will be impossible to straighten, or more likely it's the hanger, which should be easy..it is supposed hang straight and parallel to the ground.

It could also be some fine tuning after new cable and housing. If its only happening in the bigger cogs, that can be a symptom of cable tension. After you install cable and housing and do some real world shifts, the housing will compress a bit and bed into the ferrules causing the cable to slack out a bit (cable 'stretch')' and that will usually show itself in the bigger cogs. The adjustment is acceptable in the smaller cogs, but as you move up the cassette, the error is amplified so the chain starts to jump around.

Have you aligned/replaced the hanger?

maybe it's a burr in yer seat tube. where's 1000 oakes when we need him. THOUSAND OAKES! WHERE THE FUCK ARE YOU???!!!

we need a fucking novel on how to grow and clone miniature people with mini files to take care of bidness here. C'MON!

op, go to bike shop, have them fix yer bike. the end.

rog

The hanger is brand new. The arm itself is not bent, but hangs at about a 10+ degree angle to the ground. So it must have gotten bent when I got into this whole mess when I snapped the old hanger. Picking up a replacement xt shadow dr today.

Ok, so brand new derailleur still appears to hang at about 10*.

Installed new rear derailleur and everything shifts wonderfully while on the stand. Of course I assume that I would have to do some adjusting on the trail for "stretch". Fiddled with the barrel adjuster for 15 miles while it appeared to not want to stay in gear.

It would shift great for a mile and then shift like crap for 3, then I would tighten or loosen the barrel adjust a click or 3 in either direction and it would shift great again for a bit.

WTF??!?!?! Sometimes it seemed like it needed more tension as it would be in the largest cog and want to hop to the next smallest for a second, then jump back to the larger one ect. So I would tighten it a click and it would be fine. Then a mile later it would no longer downshift.

long story short why the fuck can I not get it to stay in gear??????


At this point I am throwing money away buying new parts when apparently I don't even need them. I guess its time to stop being a stubborn ass and take it into the shop.