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  1. #26
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Seattle
    Posts
    2,036
    So, I've noticed that my boot center mark (Full Tilt) tends to be a few mils forward of the line that I'm shooting for when I use jon's templates. Maybe it's just that I prefer to run my fwd pressure a little higher, but I now mount them back a few mils and a few mils smaller than my bsl. I'd seriously consider filling the holes with epoxy/fiberglass and mounting them like -0.8 with his template —should put you about -.5 or so. I've only got 10-15# on you (less by the time the season rolls around), and I would hesitate to mount +2 because I hate tip dive and it will make them even squirrellier on groomers...but talk to the guys at ON3P to see what they say.

    But remember, that's just my experience. Haven't heard this from others, though the template that comes with the binders is a little smaller in both directions than jon's template (see the paper template thread for details). Didn't even notice it until I checked where the mount point lined up with the boot mark using a t-square. Remember, the line itself is a mil or thick, so this is getting outside the realm of what we can accurately do by hand.
    Last edited by auvgeek; 07-13-2012 at 02:02 PM.
    "Alpine rock and steep, deep powder are what I seek, and I will always find solace there." - Bean Bowers

    shroom put it best: "Man, you're one biased motherfucker."

  2. #27
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Posts
    33
    I actually talked to Rowen and he thought that mounting at +2 wouldn't be a problem or affect the characteristics of the ski too much, but I think your experience with Jondrums templates and Full Tilts may push me over the edge, because I would much rather have a ski that doesn't dive and have to work a little more to get it around (can't believe I'm freaking out about 5mm). I think I'll end up mounting forward or backward rather than having the worry and cost of a sketchy helicoil/insert. I didn't realize I would be into it $100+. Thanks for the great help. I'll be sure to get a review up and update the thread when it's done.

  3. #28
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Posts
    33
    Alright so, out of desperation, I went back into Photoshop thinking that holes are about 3.6mm in diameter. I made some "holes" and lined them up again using the template (I centered the circles on the crosshair of the hole markings), and found this...the holes are around 3.6mm a piece (It's not AutoCad), and they were drawn based on the scale on Jondrums templates.
    Theoretically, one would need at LEAST 1-1.5mm between holes (right?), and here there looks to be about 2mm.

    This setup is at +1 of the recommended line.

    What do you guys think? (Besides the fact that I am obsessing over this) I'm out of town and dont have the actual skis in front of me right now, but I've actually been losing sleep over this.

  4. #29
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Aspen, Colorado
    Posts
    1,910
    Quote Originally Posted by TheRaven View Post
    Alright so, out of desperation, I went back into Photoshop thinking that holes are about 3.6mm in diameter. I made some "holes" and lined them up again using the template (I centered the circles on the crosshair of the hole markings), and found this...the holes are around 3.6mm a piece (It's not AutoCad), and they were drawn based on the scale on Jondrums templates.
    Theoretically, one would need at LEAST 1-1.5mm between holes (right?), and here there looks to be about 2mm.

    This setup is at +1 of the recommended line.

    What do you guys think? (Besides the fact that I am obsessing over this) I'm out of town and dont have the actual skis in front of me right now, but I've actually been losing sleep over this.
    align the rear holes and use a helicoil or insert to make up the overlap. Use binding screws in the front holes

  5. #30
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Seattle
    Posts
    2,036
    Quote Originally Posted by Jethro View Post
    align the rear holes and use a helicoil or insert to make up the overlap. Use binding screws in the front holes
    That puts him at like +2 tho. Raven, PM me if this is what you want to do when you get back. I'd show you how to do the mount/inserts for a sixer (of good rootbeer )—I think regular inserts will work for the rear so I have the tools.

    No need to lose sleep over it—we'll get something to work out that you'll be happy with. I actually like doing these trickier mounts cuz the more comfortable I get with them, the less I worry about it. First time I was in your position, I got all worked up about it and lost sleep too. Like Marshal often says, it ain't rocket surgery.
    "Alpine rock and steep, deep powder are what I seek, and I will always find solace there." - Bean Bowers

    shroom put it best: "Man, you're one biased motherfucker."

  6. #31
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Aspen, Colorado
    Posts
    1,910
    I was looking at the second picture as being what was wanted. Had to go back to page one to see the prefered mount. My way is way to far forward, unless you want +2. Sorry

  7. #32
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Seattle
    Posts
    59
    I've had good experiences with evo in the past with helicoils. Located in fremont.
    It is better to die young having lived than to die old having watched.

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