Thread: Wiggle in my shock

So after a few years, the ole Dawgma is showing some play in the frame. Good news! My local snooty Kona dealer (I think the shop is owned by an old road racer, it's definitely a shop for tight spandex and fat wallets) can't seem to solve it.
I'm pretty sure there isn't supposed to be any play side-to-side at the top of the shock where it attaches to the linkages. I can take the bolt out and retighten it, but eventually there will be a bunch of play in there. I even took the linkages off, cleaned them up, and put them back on. Didn't strip anything, yay!
So, the spacers, can roll, pretty sure they used to be fixed, and it would appear that the little rubber bumpers have gotten dried out. There is definitely some play side to side in the mounting spacers.
I'm assuming here that I'm not being paranoid, and that there really shouldn't be any play side-to-side at the top of the shock, and that it's not something I just never noticed before.
Can that wear out? Can I just replace it once I ascertain the appropriate size?
Am I retarded, and there should just be play in there?
Is something else broken? I can tell you that when you take the bolt and hardware out and go to put it back in, the shock appears to be closer to one of the linkages. Can't remember which side. I'm pretty sure this is just tolerance, imperfection, and wiggle room in the system. Nothing else appears to be bent or loose.
Ok, thanks in advance.
Pardon my ignorance.

Have you ever changed the DU bushings? The little sleeve that fits in each eye of the shock that the mounting bolts go through. Sounds like yours might just need replacing, which would be very normal after a few years or riding, and quite cheap and easy to do.

That's what was suggested to me, but idk. Could be, could not be. The actual spacers over the shock mount bar thingy that goes over the bolt are whats moving. I guess I'll take it to a better shop.

Sent from my cell phone. no, a cell phone.

Same thing is happeniing on my bike right now. I only feel it while handling the bike to load it up/pushing it/etc. Never feel it when riding. My issue is exactly what TOLOCOMan mentioned. I am in no huge rush to fix it, but it will get fixed.
I isolated it to the top shock bushing only (not in any pivots on the frame), but will go ahead and replace both top & bottom shock bushings when I do take care of it. It's a cheap fix - if we are experiencing the same issues.

So did the shop actually work on the bike and charge you for stuff?

They charged me $15 for working on it the first time after ordering the wrong part and allegedly sticking some washers in there. Second tech looked at it. Took the shock and out and got some measurements in case it got loose again, put it back together so that it seemed fixed and didn't charge me anything. Oh yeah, and there weren't any washers in there. He also said that the shock bushing didn't seem worn.
More riding on it and it gets loose again.
Took the rocker arms off, cleaned off the dirt, tightened everything back up, and it's still loose....and I should probably use a torque wrench.
One of the rubber bumpers seems to have gotten old.
I'm just gonna take it to the Bike Dr and they can prolly at least tell me the part I need.

Sent from my cell phone. no, a cell phone.

a bike that old needs all new bearings and new DU bushings. obviously the "mechanics" at that shop are hacks for not being able to figure this out. take it somewhere else.

^^^that was my plan, but I think a lot of them are closed today. The bearings are fine. It's the top of the shock mount.

Originally Posted by DirkaDirkaJack

a bike that old needs all new bearings and new DU bushings. obviously the "mechanics" at that shop are hacks for not being able to figure this out. take it somewhere else.

This.

Even if the bearings are "fine" when you compress the suspension, older/warn bearings can develop and exacerbate lateral flex.

1) replace du bushings

2) replace all bearings

3) use the google as both are easy diy

4) enjoy your bike that now rides like new

5) profit?

Guess I'll look into getting a bearing/bushing kit, shock hardware, and borrowing a torque wrench.
I mean, there's some lateral flex, but I think it has more to do with the design of the bike. I don't ride that hard.

PM my brother Viggen, he's a damn good bike tech in Missoula and will get done what's needed.

Originally Posted by stuckathuntermtn

Guess I'll look into getting a bearing/bushing kit, shock hardware, and borrowing a torque wrench.
I mean, there's some lateral flex, but I think it has more to do with the design of the bike. I don't ride that hard.

you will be surprised. you can have a frame with the shock out, and cycle the suspension with your hand and it will feel smooth. then when you pop the bearings out and old them in your hand, rotating the inner and outer race, it will feel like its made of sand. at that age, its worth doing all new bearings.

So the bearings and bolts are all fine. I probably need a new bushing. It's a 12mm not a half inch, so does anyone have one lying around?

http://www.pricepoint.com/detail.htm?stylePkey=23517

is that what you are after?

Allegedly. Needs to be 12mm X12mm with I would assume an 8mm ID.
idfk, the whole hardware and bushing at the top probably needs to be replaced.

You need these as well.
http://www.pricepoint.com/detail/180...dware-Kits.htm
Top should be 803-03-000 but measure to make sure.


There has to be a shop in town that has the DU bushings and can install them for you. Just bring the shock and they should do it on the spot cheap.

what is the exact brand and model of the shock you have on there?

Don't worry, Bike Dr is on it.

You don't need no Dr, you need this:

http://www.ridemonkey.com/classifieds/cat-11/ad-19219/?

I'm more concerned about my fork right now, and I've heard about 3 different causes for why the rebound and compression/lockout and their adjustments aren't working. Anything from basic oil/seal problems to the rebound and motion control being shot.

Sent from my cell phone. no, a cell phone.