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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Posts
    2,103

    White gas + climbing harness = bad?

    On my hut trip last week, the spare fuel bottle I was carrying leaked slightly and my climbing harness just so happened to be packed right next to it (I'm a dumbass for packing it like that ) The label on the bottle was definitely wet and you could smell white gas, but it wasn't like everything was drenched in fuel.

    I'm inclined to replace it if I have any doubts about the integrity of the harness and the slings attached to it, but so far in my research I've gotten conflicting reports on whether or not white gas will damage nylon (especially in very small quantities). Unless I get a definite answer that white gas is not harmful to nylon from a credible source, I'll be replacing it.

    Speculate away.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Seattle
    Posts
    4,555
    Wash the shit out of it, then test it by taking some fall factor 1+ leader falls and then report back.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    CO
    Posts
    573
    For the slings, if they are Spectra or Dyneema, trash them. They are absolutely effected by cyclical hydrocarbons, which are in white gas in at least small amounts.

    A naphtha product like white gas shouldn't effect nylon proper. But, how certain are you that other polymers aren't used somewhere critical, like stitching. At the very least inspect the shit out of it. If you see anything resembling melted fibers, you have problems.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Posts
    313
    for how much slings cost vs your life, i would just replace them.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Breck/Bozeman
    Posts
    397
    Maybe use the rest of the white gas on the slings and harness with a match included in the equation, i agree replacing a few pieces is the way to go even if you might be aright not doing so.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Southern NH
    Posts
    3,135
    Replace them.
    The Passion is in the Risk

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    S-E-A-T-O-W-N
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    1,454
    This question came up at cascadeclimbers.com the other day, only with rope and motor oil. Someone posted this "debunking" of the idea that motor oil is harmful:

    http://www.rockandice.com/articles/h...-Climbing-Rope

    However, I know I would just replace the gear. I'm not an alarmist, but I've used gasoline to dissolve enough stuff that it just doesn't seem worth the risk to me. Maybe it's a question of how broke you are. But ask yourself who else will want to rope up with you?
    that's all i can think of, but i'm sure there's something else...

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Seattle, WA
    Posts
    1,221

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    The Ice Coast
    Posts
    804
    Quote Originally Posted by camlax View Post
    for how much slings cost vs your life, i would just replace them.
    This. Why are you even asking?

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Vienna/Austria/Europe
    Posts
    211
    The German alpine association ran several test with climbing ropes and gasoline, diesel, alcohol and urine (AFAIK they submerged and soaked the ropes in the liquids) and they didn't notice any significant strength loss. The chemical resistance they tested applies to polyamid.
    Probably your harness isn't made from dyneema...

    You really need to worry about acids, though (e.g. from you car battery!).

    link (in German)
    http://www.bergundsteigen.at/file.ph...bergseile).pdf
    ~#at night the highway's diesel roar/speaks to me and tells me more/than any book I've ever read/or anything you've ever said#~

  11. #11
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    Renoenvy
    Posts
    8,542
    Quote Originally Posted by Big Steve View Post
    Wash the shit out of it....
    Quote Originally Posted by Chowda View Post
    ... inspect the shit out of it...
    he's got gas, not the runs...
    ... jfost is really ignorant, he often just needs simple facts laid out for him...

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    northern BC
    Posts
    6,956
    Quote Originally Posted by herr_stoiber View Post
    You really need to worry about acids, though (e.g. from you car battery!).

    link (in German)
    http://www.bergundsteigen.at/file.ph...bergseile).pdf
    Or the electricity FROM that battery in the case of carbon, my buddies CF white water paddle shorted out on a car battery and the blade disintegrated completely which was obvious on a WW kayak paddle but in a piece of gear where the CF was hidden you may not notice ?

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Posts
    2,103
    Cut the slings and threw them away, but I decided to shoot an email off to Petzl to see what they have to say about this before I trash my harness.

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    truckee
    Posts
    1,256
    Quote Originally Posted by grubbers View Post
    Cut the slings and threw them away, but I decided to shoot an email off to Petzl to see what they have to say about this before I trash my harness.
    Let's hope they don't reply in German.

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    NorCal
    Posts
    2,316
    I would toss the harness as well, but that is just me. Any "chemicals" (define however broadly you want) around my climbing gear is no bueno IMHO.

  16. #16
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Posts
    201
    Quote Originally Posted by old goat View Post
    Let's hope they don't reply in German.
    Petzl is a French company, so if they reply in German I think it's a sign to dispose of the harness no matter whether you can read it or not.

    If you want to know the answer after the fact, there are enginerds on climbing websites (and the BD qc lab) who have pull testers and might be willing to test the harness (and the slings if you hadn't cut them up) to see if it really did weaken them. I'm in the camp of it probably has no effect but you should replace anyway.

  17. #17
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    Renoenvy
    Posts
    8,542
    Quote Originally Posted by Unfrozen Caveman Lawyer View Post
    I would toss the harness as well, but that is just me. Any "chemicals" (define however broadly you want) around my climbing gear is no bueno IMHO.
    nonoxynol-9 ???
    ... jfost is really ignorant, he often just needs simple facts laid out for him...

  18. #18
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    CO
    Posts
    573
    As I eluded to above, I bet it's fine (although I am playing with your money). But personally, I would replace it. If for no other reason than it is one less thought to quiet in my head the next time I'm run-out and not feeling the next move.

  19. #19
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Crystal Mountain
    Posts
    144
    This is an interesting topic.

    First off, Dyneema and Spectra are UHMWPE, one of the most stable polymers in existence: http://k-mac-plastics.net/data%20she...resistance.htm

    Second, in terms of strength, Aramid or Nylon have far more detrimental results when exposed to plain old dihydrogen monoxide than say a solvent, like acetone. http://www.carlislefsp.com/files/solventguide.pdf & http://stroft.net/proandcontra.html

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