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Thread: 2x10 worth it?
04-26-2012, 06:41 PM #1
2x10 worth it?
Last year was my first year riding. I picked up a lightly used 575 as an alternative to running due to injury. It's been great. My overall riding skills will obviously be something I'm working on for some time, however my fitness is solid. I ride Front Range trails with the occasional excursion to Buff., Monarch Pass, Fruita/Moab, Aspen, etc. I never use my smallest ring up front. Shopping around I've noticed an entire drivetrain overhaul is a bit...cost prohibitive. Am I going to gain much in the way of...anything, if I go 2x10? I don't plan on racing anytime soon, and don't lie awake at night worried about the weight of my bike, with its less than high end wheelset, etc. Would such an overhaul be more of an exercise in ego-stroking than anything else? I've also shopped lighter, stronger wheels, but they aren't exactly cheap either. I really don't feel the need to upgrade my entire bike just yet, though I can't help but feel that a nicely spec'd Mojo, SB, Nomad might be in my not-so-near future. Advice? Thanks in advance.
04-26-2012, 06:49 PM #2
I have been on XX 2x10 since early 2010 and love it. The shifting, gear ratio and clean line of the crank is sweet. I run 24x32 with an 11-36 on the back.
You will need a whole drivetrain and shifters, so do it on a bike you will be on for a while. If it gets you excited abut riding do it!
04-26-2012, 06:57 PM #3
^^^ You run a shop out there? I didn't ride until I moved here, and I've got the water on the brain when I visit home, but I may have to give riding a try next time I'm out.
04-26-2012, 07:19 PM #4
I'm on a 2x10 (26/38, 11-36) and I'm really happy with it. However, I'm seriously considering 1x10. I'd have to give up one or two of my lowest gear-equivalents, but the simplicity seems it'd be worth it."It need not be fun to be fun." - Big Steve
04-26-2012, 07:22 PM #5
Lose the front big ring, slap on a bash ring, reset your front derailleur stops and call it a day.
04-26-2012, 07:28 PM #6Registered User
- Join Date
- Mar 2005
- Livingston, MT
04-26-2012, 08:18 PM #7
04-26-2012, 10:15 PM #8
My last bike was 2x9. My new bike is 2x10. One more gear doesn't really matter. Unless you're buying all new stuff anyways, save money and stick with 2x9. Or don't change anything and stick with 3x9 - it's not like your smallest ring is going to self destruct if you don't use it.
04-26-2012, 10:18 PM #9
04-26-2012, 10:32 PM #10
I run a 2x10 (27/40, 11-36) and it has made me a faster rider. I found that I would allow myself to spin in granny on hills with a 22-34 gear when I really didn't need to. It helps that I got a SS first and learned how to stand and generally ride with a slower cadence/more power style.
All this said, I haven't done any extended endurance (5+ hours) yet with my new drivetrain, so I reserve the right to go crawling back to my triple crankset at some point.
04-26-2012, 10:59 PM #11
On my previous bike I ran a 1x9 with a 28T and loved it. My new bike has a 2x10 but I will be converting it to 1x10 shortly. I originally switched to the 1x cause I smacked and bent my chainrings and it was a cheap fix.... Now I am just used to not using the front d.Best Skier on the Mountain
1992 - 2012
Squaw Valley, USA
04-26-2012, 11:00 PM #12
roxtar has the right idea. 2x9 with bash/chain guide up front.
04-27-2012, 08:10 AM #13Gluten Free Dan
- Join Date
- Dec 2010
1x10 for me, but much more doable here in MA where there's no real sustained climbing.
Going from 22/36 by 11-34 to 32 by 11-36 has made everything a whole lot easier for me. The 22 granny was way too small, and a few guys I ride with were already doing a single front ring so I figured I'd give it a shot. Its been great so far and I don't see a reason to go back unless I move somewhere with actual hills.
04-27-2012, 02:16 PM #14
After a year on a true (26/39) 2x10 setup I'm convinced the gearing is optimum for me, but it sure isn't life altering. Before I ran (24/36/bash) 2x9 and loved that too(pretty much same climbing gear but now I have more top end). However, without the bash I can't keep the chain on if I'm riding chunder or jump trails due to the rear D not keeping up with chain growth as the suspension compresses fast. I'm even running a 2x guide and that keeps it from falling down to the small ring, but can't do anything for the outside. I guess I just didn't know it was an issue with my 2x9 setups cause my bash always caught the chain from falling off the outside and the small ring caught it on the inside most of the time. Maybe the new clutched RD's solve this, but I won't know till later this year. In the short term, I'm probably switching to a crank that I can run a bash on ASAP which means I'm losing the true 2x10 gearing. Thinking of trying an XO with the special spider that keeps the 2x10 chainline but then the gears will be 24/38/bash.
IMHO - I would only change to 10 speed if you are tossing everything because of a new bike or it's all dead. sure a 36 tooth gear is nice in the back, but it's not revolutionary in any way. If it was 9-36 in the rear like Canfield is starting to put out that changes everything because then you just run a 28-30T chainring 1x10 system and have the best of both worlds. Hopefully that is the future.
04-27-2012, 02:25 PM #15
like this one. It just uses longer chainring bolts to essentially add a "third" ring to your setup. It's no different than people who used to run 3 rings plus a bash. The one in that link is sized for bigger rings, so you might have to search around for an appropriately sized one.
04-27-2012, 07:20 PM #16
I'm running a 2 X9 setup as well with one of these
You don't need longer chainring bolts with the thin bash. Lighter than a third ring. Not much of a true bash but it'll keep your Levi's out of the chainring.
Last edited by cooltsi; 04-27-2012 at 07:34 PM.Driving to Targhee
04-27-2012, 09:27 PM #17a positive attitude will not solve all of your problems, but it may annoy enough people to make it worth the effort
04-27-2012, 10:13 PM #18
I've actually thought of taking the time to CAD it up myself and send it to my machinist, but figured if it was that easy MRP, E-thirteen, Shimano, or SRAM would have already done the work.
04-28-2012, 07:53 AM #19
04-28-2012, 11:00 AM #20
^^^that seems a savvy and cheap solution to me.
Toast- what whip did you settle on? FBird?thank you jerry
04-28-2012, 04:28 PM #21
Shit, I'd go 1X10 with a fucking 24T if I could. lol.No longer stuck.
04-28-2012, 08:55 PM #22
Not a horrible idea, but I've run something similar before and wasn't stoked after bending bolts and the thin bash. I'll probably just buy a 3x10 crank w/bash such as the sixc, X0 am, or turbines due to a lack of free time.
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04-28-2012, 09:06 PM #23
04-29-2012, 04:17 AM #24
My view is that 2x10 is nice but by no means necessary, and frankly would be pretty far down on my list for those suffering from upgradeitis.
(aside from handlebar stuff that's personal preference) I say fork and wheels first. But if you're rocking a 575 I'm betting you already have a nice fork.
(or just ride it until something breaks...)come join me, rideit, and all the other retarts at f88me. Now under new management!
04-29-2012, 08:31 AM #25