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  1. #26
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Posts
    2,984
    Quote Originally Posted by marshalolson View Post
    yeah man, you make the right call. the revelation is a totally rad fork. defiantly rides like a mini-boxxer IMO, the dual air particularly.
    One of you fork tuning gurus help me out here. I've got last year's Revelation RLT Ti Dual Air. I will admit I have not had a chance to spend a day doing nothing but twiddling w/ fork adjustments while out on the trail, which is what I want/need to do. However, the one thing that I've been a little disappointed with is the plushness of the fork. I started out w/ the pressure at the level indicated on the fork leg for my weight, same pressure in both chambers. It practically felt like a rigid fork at that pressure. So I started dropping it, and am now down to what seems awfully low - like 80psi in the upper chamber (I'm ~160lbs w/o gear on). I dropped the lower chamber pressure down to 70psi, which definitely helped, but I'm still surprised that it is as firm as it is. Even at those pressures, I have yet to use all of the travel (the travel indicator never gets closer than about 1" from the crown). I have not messed with the rebound settings - is that my problem?

    As a point of reference, this is the first air fork I've had - my other bikes both have Marz coils.

  2. #27
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    O-Town
    Posts
    2,636
    Quote Originally Posted by Big E View Post
    One of you fork tuning gurus help me out here. I've got last year's Revelation RLT Ti Dual Air. I will admit I have not had a chance to spend a day doing nothing but twiddling w/ fork adjustments while out on the trail, which is what I want/need to do. However, the one thing that I've been a little disappointed with is the plushness of the fork. I started out w/ the pressure at the level indicated on the fork leg for my weight, same pressure in both chambers. It practically felt like a rigid fork at that pressure. So I started dropping it, and am now down to what seems awfully low - like 80psi in the upper chamber (I'm ~160lbs w/o gear on). I dropped the lower chamber pressure down to 70psi, which definitely helped, but I'm still surprised that it is as firm as it is. Even at those pressures, I have yet to use all of the travel (the travel indicator never gets closer than about 1" from the crown). I have not messed with the rebound settings - is that my problem?

    As a point of reference, this is the first air fork I've had - my other bikes both have Marz coils.
    If its not plush enough, put more air in the negative chamber. Taking air out of the negative chamber makes the fork stiffer, just like adding air to the positive chamber. You're basically doing it backwards. Negative Chamber: more air = more plushness. Positive Chamber: less air = more plushness. Start at the recommended pressure for both, then adjust until you find a nice balance.
    All I know is that I don't know nothin'... and that's fine.

  3. #28
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    North Vancouver
    Posts
    5,670
    Quote Originally Posted by Big E View Post
    One of you fork tuning gurus help me out here. I've got last year's Revelation RLT Ti Dual Air. I will admit I have not had a chance to spend a day doing nothing but twiddling w/ fork adjustments while out on the trail, which is what I want/need to do. However, the one thing that I've been a little disappointed with is the plushness of the fork. I started out w/ the pressure at the level indicated on the fork leg for my weight, same pressure in both chambers. It practically felt like a rigid fork at that pressure. So I started dropping it, and am now down to what seems awfully low - like 80psi in the upper chamber (I'm ~160lbs w/o gear on). I dropped the lower chamber pressure down to 70psi, which definitely helped, but I'm still surprised that it is as firm as it is. Even at those pressures, I have yet to use all of the travel (the travel indicator never gets closer than about 1" from the crown). I have not messed with the rebound settings - is that my problem?

    As a point of reference, this is the first air fork I've had - my other bikes both have Marz coils.
    I think I am about 100psi in the negative bottom and 105 in the top. Remember to adjust the bottom first, bring it up to the pressure you want then do the top.

    I adjusted the pressure and cranked up the rebound some more and I am really starting to like this little fork. It's on a new bike that I am also messing with bar width and stem height so the first four rides have been constant fiddling and yesterday it all finally started to come together. Next is to start getting the rear dialed in.

  4. #29
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Posts
    302
    Quote Originally Posted by shirk View Post
    I think I am about 100psi in the negative bottom and 105 in the top. Remember to adjust the bottom first, bring it up to the pressure you want then do the top.
    Interesting. This is the exact opposite of how I've always set them up and how Rock Shox recommends.

    (P.S. the + air chamber is still up top, right?)

  5. #30
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    O-Town
    Posts
    2,636
    Quote Originally Posted by Finstah View Post
    Interesting. This is the exact opposite of how I've always set them up and how Rock Shox recommends.

    (P.S. the + air chamber is still up top, right?)
    I always do the positive chamber first as well. If you do the negative first, the fork sucks down and I never seem to get the pressure right. I like to fill them both to recommended (positive first), then pedal it around the driveway (hit/jump off curbs, etc) and make adjustments as needed.
    All I know is that I don't know nothin'... and that's fine.

  6. #31
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    North Vancouver
    Posts
    5,670
    hmmm maybe I was wrong, it was a friend that told me to tweak the -ve (bottom) first.

    Found this on BikeRadar.

    There is a clear description in the manual: if you don't have one, download from SRAM.

    This is a basic step by step guide on how to set the forks up from scratch.

    - Deflate the negative air chamber ( be aware that you WILL lose oil if the valve is pointing straight down).
    - Deflate the positive air chamber
    - Ensure the fork is not locked out
    - Add air to the +ve chamber until you get the SAG you require. Make a note of the pressure.
    - Inflate the -ve chamber to the same pressure.
    - If you want a firmer start to the suspension feel, remove up to 15psi from the -ve chamber
    - If you want a more supple start, ADD upto 15psi to the -ve chamber
    - Adding more -ve pressure can suck the fork down into its travel

    Don't forget you have damping adjusters too.
    Newer dual air forks require a slightly different proceedure:

    Dual air is very tunable, but RS do not recommend adjusting the negative chamber outside the prescribed +/- 10psi from the main air chamber. If you do, you need to know what you are doing as the sag measurements can be confusing. For most people:

    - set the sag to 25%, whilst stood on the bike, with equal pressure in the negative and positive chambers. Note these pressures.

    - for a softer feel at the start of the stroke add more negative pressure, up to an extra 10psi

    - for a firmer feel to the start of the stroke reduce neagative pressure, again up to 10psi.

    Adjusting neg pressure may make the fork sit higher or lower in its fully extended state. Be aware of this.

    - adjust compression damping to suit. And rebound.

    Go and ride. Tweak. If you are not bottoming the fork ever, try 30% sag. if you are, try 20% sag.
    http://www.bikeradar.com/forums/view...php?t=12629675

  7. #32
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    retired
    Posts
    12,670
    Quote Originally Posted by Dickeymotto View Post
    Could a part of that be that there are more Fox forks out there? I remember they pretty much owned the OEM market for quite a while. Maybe it's just my perception, but it seems like they sell more mid to high end forks then Rock Shox.
    yeah i more mean full custom builds that i serviced every month year in year out for regular customers. i have also been out of the shop for 2-3 years as well. again, just anecdotal, and a very small sample size.
    go for rob

    www.dpsskis.com

  8. #33
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Posts
    2,984
    Well where the hell did I get the idea that I should put less in the bottom chamber (that's negative, right?) I must have just plain misread it, cuz I certainly had no idea how to do it when I got the fork.

    Anyhoo, thank's for straightening me out, now I'm excited to go out and play w/ it.

  9. #34
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    The Ham
    Posts
    2,143
    Quote Originally Posted by marshalolson View Post
    yeah i more mean full custom builds that i serviced every month year in year out for regular customers. i have also been out of the shop for 2-3 years as well. again, just anecdotal, and a very small sample size.
    I see more fox stanchions scored from dirty seals than any other brand. I can connect this to people buying nicer bikes that come with them that intern ride more but also dont maintain there stuff though. That being said some one in the same position with RS fork seems to have better luck.
    a positive attitude will not solve all of your problems, but it may annoy enough people to make it worth the effort

  10. #35
    Gman is offline Mack Master William Large
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Billyburg, NY
    Posts
    1,550
    thought people would be interested in this: http://www.bikerumor.com/2012/04/17/...te-rear-shock/

  11. #36
    Gman is offline Mack Master William Large
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Billyburg, NY
    Posts
    1,550
    So now I'm looking at forks that ideally can do 160mm and 150mm. Would you still recommend the x-fusion stuff? Looking at a giant reign frameset from 2011. I know the reign 0 from the same year came with a fox 32.

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