Thread: New Bike Stoke! 2012 Specialized Stumpy evo

Photo of my new baby! I geek out hard on bikes in general, especially custom builds, so I though I would share. I've been stuck inside 70hrs a week with school and work so its not getting nearly the thrashing it should, only a few rides, anyone else have one, what do you think?

Also been thinking of going to a 1X10 homebrew direct spider mount chain ring and a g2 min, anyone have this combo, thoughts? Seems light, and way simpler/cleaner than a 24-36 which I seem to always cross chain one way or the other on all mountain trails...


Full specs here. if you dig that sort of thing. ...

That thing looks FAST! Might want to trim the brake lines though

Yeah I haven't had time to chop them and bleed yet, some day....

let me know how you like it, looking at building up one myself.

Looking to do an identical build but can't decide if I'm going to go full custom like you, or just shell out for the carbon complete bike and swap on my 2012 float 36 (at 150mm)

Regarding the 1x10, no homebrew required. MRP has these in stock (28 to 32T) and a new matching G2 Micro SL. Id be doing this too.

Gman, will do! 6 weeks till I can ski, bike, and climb myself silly all summer long.

skibumnh, I just saw those, gotta get an order in, sounds like the mrp's have the perfect offset, I was thinking 32t, with the 36t on the cassett should be low enough?, what size are you thinking?

Originally Posted by mtnsaremyhome

Gman, will do! 6 weeks till I can ski, bike, and climb myself silly all summer long.

skibumnh, I just saw those, gotta get an order in, sounds like the mrp's have the perfect offset, I was thinking 32t, with the 36t on the cassett should be low enough?, what size are you thinking?

The chainring is perfectly offset for a chainguide (and the g2 micro will give you all the ground clearance you want with that low fsr bb)

I'm personally going to go 28T with an 11 or 12-36 in the rear. My holy grail is 26T with 9-36, but none of that really exists beyond prototype yet.

Most of my riding is constant up and down with lots of sharp pointy things. My preference is tailor made for southern new england's technical singletrack. Your needs and quad strength may dictate something else.

Originally Posted by skibumnh

The chainring is perfectly offset for a chainguide (and the g2 micro will give you all the ground clearance you want with that low fsr bb)

I'm personally going to go 28T with an 11 or 12-36 in the rear. My holy grail is 26T with 9-36, but none of that really exists beyond prototype yet.

Most of my riding is constant up and down with lots of sharp pointy things. My preference is tailor made for southern new england's technical singletrack. Your needs and quad strength may dictate something else.

Thanks skibumnh Humm, well I grew up racing in northern new england(Harrison, Maine, but I did all the EFTA and NORBA series at the time). I've got a 34t and 11-34 9sp on my race bike, that being said, I haven't raced in two years. I was thinking either a 30 or a 32. Awesome to hear they are offset correctly. The 9-36 seems awesome, but yeah still years out on that... its funny around here its either nice tech slimy roots and rolling or just up or down, just depends on where you go for a ride, so kind of need a happy medium...

mtnsaremyhome- Do you know about how much your frame (with shock) weighed in at?

Sweet ride, by the way.

Sexy bike.

I would go with the smaller chainring. If I had to choose one, I'd have to skip out on the higher end gearing and keep the lower gear for a bail out.

For reference, I am on a double 26-38 with 11-36 cassette and I definitely use the lowest 26-36 a lot. I could probably use one lower gear for long rides where I get winded easily, but it's too early in the season to really tell if that's the case (for me). Plus as the season goes on I'll get stronger so maybe I won't want a lower gear.

When I used to have a 22 ring with 34 in the back as granny, it was too low to be usable in all but extreme cases, either in steepness or fatigue. The next two highest gears I definitely used though.

Bottom line: I wouldn't want anything higher than 26-36 as my granny. So I'd hesitate to go for 28 or 30t. When the 9-36 arrives the 26 ring will be my 1x10 do it all solution.

You can trim the lines without bleeding if your crafty, I have done it many many times. Unscew line from lever, slide nut back up behind where you need to cut it and cut the line. Use the scew-in avid tip that goes the end of the line in with the tiny torx and reconnect the line. Pau.

If you pull the lever while it is disconnected you are sunk.

sweet bike! enjoy!

Originally Posted by AKbruin

mtnsaremyhome- Do you know about how much your frame (with shock) weighed in at?

Sweet ride, by the way.

I think its 6.6lbs, I weighed it, but that was a while ago and I should have written down more specifics. I think that included the rear 142 axle and the seat collar? Pretty sure I took the seat post out also.

Thanks I'll give it a shot! can always bleed later if necessary...

Originally Posted by mtnsaremyhome

I think its 6.6lbs, I weighed it, but that was a while ago and I should have written down more specifics. I think that included the rear 142 axle and the seat collar? Pretty sure I took the seat post out also.

Thanks! Not too bad.

Originally Posted by mtnsaremyhome

Thanks I'll give it a shot! can always bleed later if necessary...

I did one again like that today on a new brake install, the housing was a foot too long, in the parts bag (avid) they gave one olive and one end nipple. Easy

Originally Posted by Crampedon

I did one again like that today on a new brake install, the housing was a foot too long, in the parts bag (avid) they gave one olive and one end nipple. Easy

Can you do that with Shimano brakes too?

After about a 150 miles on my 2012 Stumpy Evo Comp, I think it's as fast in real life as it is on the internet.

Here's what I love about the bike:
*I don't think any other bike in this general category comes with smarter specs or a better price. The geo, the chain guide and bash, the dropper post, etc. It's pretty much ready to go as sold (except for maybe the rear tire, in my case).
*In general, it climbs extremely well. I feel faster and less worn out at the tops of climbs. This may have something to do with the fact that my old bike weighed 36 lbs.
*It's stable at speed.
*At the same time, it wants to corner hard. Except for the fork, it feels as stiff as my old Iron Horse.
*It's not easy to bottom out the suspension. I've taken a few 4-5'-ish drops and there's still some travel left on my shock.
*The stock Revelation is a fine fork. I can't ungracefully plow through rock gardens as easily as I could with the Lyrik, but it's otherwise perfect for general trail riding. I might try my Lyrik later in the summer though.

Here's what I don't love about the bike:
*I thought the XC-oriented rear tires (Purgatory Controls) do the bike's cornering ability a disservice. In loose stuff, they felt totally unpredictable to me. The sidewalls are also super thin, which I discovered this weekend when I tore a sidewall. I've switched to some 2.25 Ardents (ghetto tubeless) that I had on hand, and the improvement was immediately noticeable.
*Climbing rocky, techy terrain feels harder. I'm constantly smacking my pedals, which, granted, are big silly CB mallets at the moment. I'm sure I'll get used to it and in many cases pedal timing will help. But there are simply some techy climb features in which you don't have the luxury of
*This is truly a nit, but the original bash guard for the 2x10 looks crappy (although I'm sure it does its job).

Overall, I'm pretty happy. It's a pretty ideal Tahoe trail bike.

*Climbing rocky, techy terrain feels harder.

I find the FSR suspension to climb techy stuff the best out of bikes I've ridden. The rear wheel tracking is exceptional IMO, even for short bursts out of the saddle. More pedal bob than some other designs, but worth it.

Is your only issue with it the low BB and pedal strikes, or is it something else too? I had to adjust at first, but now it's instinct about knowing where I can't make a full rotation and must ratchet the pedals instead.

It's more a pedal strike issue (low bb + fat pedals). There are some techy climb sections around here where you just can't time every pedal stroke.