Results 51 to 68 of 68
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03-13-2012, 12:01 PM #51
Cer. and stone tile require additional sub flooring in the original installation of at least 1 1/4" to 2 1/2". Typ. sub flooring is 3/4" for wood, laminate and pre eng. wood floors.
Wood flooring, laminate, cork and pre eng. wood are more flexible materials that don't break/crack
when the floor flexes because they don't require additional stiffness. Tile will break very quickly on a floor that flexes too much. 1/4" concrete will eventually begin to crack and transmit the location of floor joists below, or begin to crack at all the joints of the sub flooring, esp. if it's t & g plywood
that moves seasonally with fluctuating humidity levels.
Having said all that, 1/4" of concrete is probably not a very heavy load so a typical 3/4" sub flooring may be able to handle that load (provided it's either correctly spaced and taped butt joint plywood or an "Advantech" T & G sub flooring product.
I'd really like to see an actual manufacturers specification for this application specifying the sub flooring and the actual concrete mix required.Last edited by OSECS; 03-13-2012 at 05:28 PM.
"You damn colonials and your herds of tax write off dressage ponies". PNWBrit
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03-13-2012, 12:20 PM #52
They're having a sale at stupid shit people do to their houses dot com .
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03-13-2012, 12:34 PM #53
if you have questions about asphalt roofing, PM me your number, I can answer most of them
I resolve PC issues remotely. Need to get rid of all that pr0n you downloaded on your work laptop? Or did you just get a ton of viruses from searching for "geriatic midget sex"? Either way I can fix them. PM Me for maggot prices.
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03-13-2012, 12:49 PM #54
I have a question .
How much weed do you need for a 30sq roof job ?
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03-13-2012, 12:53 PM #55
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03-13-2012, 12:59 PM #56I resolve PC issues remotely. Need to get rid of all that pr0n you downloaded on your work laptop? Or did you just get a ton of viruses from searching for "geriatic midget sex"? Either way I can fix them. PM Me for maggot prices.
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03-13-2012, 01:11 PM #57
I find this interesting. A couple years ago my roof needed to go and I got some quotes. Metal quotes were around $4.5k and asphalt shingles were $3k-3.5k. Really not that big of a disparity considering how much longer metal lasts. I ended up doing metal myself with my Dad over a weekend for about $2.3k in materials. Shingles weren't really appropriate anyway (2:12 pitch) and with the low pitch putting it up was easy.
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03-13-2012, 01:16 PM #58
Interesting, what type of metal roofing did you use ? A 2:12 pitch would have been a warranty breaker for most asphalt roof manuf. and you'd need to use an ice and water shield over the entire roof, that could account for the closer cost differential. Also asphalt roof prices are tied to oil prices so they can fluctuate.
"You damn colonials and your herds of tax write off dressage ponies". PNWBrit
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03-13-2012, 01:20 PM #59
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03-13-2012, 01:36 PM #60
Standard painted corrugated 29 gauge. It's been a couple years but I believe the asphalt quotes just had the standard 3 ft of ice/water shield at the edges. This was late summer '09 and I think oil prices were pretty reasonable at the time. Now, the standing seam/self locking metal roofing that you only have screw on the perimeter was a lot more expensive. That shit was really nice but something like $1.75/sf vs. $0.75/sf for standard panels.
edit: I went with an EnergyStar-rated color and got a nice energy efficiency tax credit that year too (30% of materials costs IIRC). Can't get that with shingles.
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03-13-2012, 04:52 PM #61Registered User
- Join Date
- Jan 2012
- Location
- Sheridan, Wy
- Posts
- 40
I will consult the ACI Standard Practices Manual tomorrow while I am at work and hopefully get the answers you seek, at which point I will pm them to you as to not further hijack this thread as I am sure the op is as sick of this bs as am I. But to sound like the ass that I know I am: "google it, educate yourself".
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03-14-2012, 09:58 AM #62
i see you work with concrete
i presume you saw my profile and see i'm an architect
i can read the manual and any other number of official sources at work too
i also have direct experience too
we're not convincing each other of anything by not speaking in person
let's drop the pissing match, ok?
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03-14-2012, 10:06 AM #63someone
- Join Date
- Nov 2009
- Posts
- 359
thanks for all the replies.
i suppose the roofing question will just come down to price and how much maintenance i want to do.
red wine, soy sauce and having had 2 dishwashers leak in different (rental) locations has kicked me away from wood.
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03-14-2012, 10:20 AM #64
Obviously you go with what you're comfortable with, but I've had hard wood in our kitchen for 13 years plus and have have never had anything stain it that's spilled. The dishwasher is a quasi legit concern, but insurance covers that issue minus any deductible you may have. There really isn't a right answer (with regard to flooring choices that will work structurally, that is) It's personal preference and peace of mind. Good luck man.
"You damn colonials and your herds of tax write off dressage ponies". PNWBrit
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03-14-2012, 10:45 AM #65
We've got cork in a couple rooms in the house, but not in the kitchen. I think it would do OK, but may suffer some moisture/durability issues. I love the cork for its warmth, soft feel and ability to sweep clean. We recently remodeled our small 1 BR motherinlaw apt and used cork scraps to do the main living area. I think cork is an amazing floor material and would use it again and again. Heck, i'm considering throwing a cork floor in my 10x10 office, rather than sanding/refinishing the oak.
I will say that after 5y, the cork in our W facing room is indeed taking a beating (bleaching and drying out a bit) from Utah summer sun. We do have 2 dogs, so we work the floor over pretty hard - some scratching wear, but not too bad and regular helpings of muddy footprints, etc. I have treated it a couple times with Osmo liquid wax cleaner.
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03-14-2012, 10:51 AM #66
I could get 29 gauge corrugated for damn near free but I'd still opt for a good comp shingle if that was my only metal choice. I would never put a super light gauge thru-fastened panel on my house, especially if you have runs much longer than 20'. Shed, barn, carport - sure, but not my house. When people talk about a 50-year or lifetime metal roof they are not talking about 29 gauge corrugated.
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03-14-2012, 11:52 AM #67
My longest runs are 16', so not even close to >20'. The place I bought it from also sells 26 gauge and I asked about it at the time, they said it was overkill and actively discouraged that option.
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03-14-2012, 03:07 PM #68
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