Thread: Is white glue for "woodworking crafts" good enough for a binding mount?

I use G-flex 650 on everything these days and I've had good luck so far. Even built a DIY splitboard that seems to be holding its own...

Originally Posted by Jonathan S.

What do we think about GE Silicone II Glue?

I've been using something similar (forget which brand) for a couple years now for all mounts where I'm not concerned about strength (which is most mounts that I do). So far I've had good luck with it - no evidence of cracking or brittleness, no evidence of moisture getting in, and easy to pull the screws out when needed.

Originally Posted by toast2266

I've been using something similar (forget which brand) for a couple years now for all mounts where I'm not concerned about strength (which is most mounts that I do).

How much "strength" does "marine grade epoxy" (whatever the fuck that means) add?

Worked at several shops and done many of my own mounts over the decades.

Outdoor/waterproof wood glue is what they used, has always been fine. I have never had a pullout, or had a pair come back to any shop I worked at...

Originally Posted by Hugh Conway

How much "strength" does "marine grade epoxy" (whatever the fuck that means) add?

The "strength" doesn't come from any glue. It comes from the screws threads contacting the core/laminates. The glue is there for lubricating the screw, then forming a watertight seal around the hole.
In this day and age, imagine if it we actually had to epoxy our screws in in order to make them work?! That would suck.

Originally Posted by Hugh Conway

How much "strength" does "marine grade epoxy" (whatever the fuck that means) add?

Originally Posted by DropCliffsNotBombs

The "strength" doesn't come from any glue. It comes from the screws threads contacting the core/laminates. The glue is there for lubricating the screw, then forming a watertight seal around the hole.
In this day and age, imagine if it we actually had to epoxy our screws in in order to make them work?! That would suck.

A couple guys have done pull out tests for screws with and without epoxy (here's a link to one of those tests). The epoxy adds considerable strength because (as I understand it) the epoxy seeps into the core around the screw. Basically, if an epoxied screw pulls out, it's going to pull a sizable chunk of core with it. Obviously the epoxy isn't necessary to get a mount that's strong enough for the vast majority of situations. Since I'm not a huge guy and I don't tend to rip bindings out of skis, I don't generally bother with the epoxy unless its a mount that I'm worried about for some reason (i.e. reusing old holes where the core doesn't look pristine).

Originally Posted by pfluffenmeister

i too started using the goop after reading marshalolsen's glowing recommendation.
i'm going to be removing the bindings that were gooped soon, hopefully w/o incident.
anyone find it necessary to use a soldering iron when removing screws held in by Marine Goop?

I have not needed an iron. When Marine Goop is dry its the consistency of industrial strength rubber cement, pliable and stretchy.

IME you can make new threads in a ski core from slowset epoxy & chopped fibreglass strands, sure someone will tell you the date expired 5min epoxy & steel wool they used while having beers and smoking a fatty didnt work but maybe its cuz he did a shitty job with shitty materials ?

Slowset Epoxy sticks to the screw so you are not just making stronger threads you are sticking that screw to the ski core so if it wasn't you who originally installed A binding you don't know if epoxy or wood glue was used but I would say ANY time you got a screw that won't come try using a soldering iron BEFORE you strip the head

Originally Posted by XXX-er

IME you can make new threads in a ski core from slowset epoxy & chopped fibreglass strands, sure someone will tell you the date expired 5min epoxy & steel wool they used while having beers and smoking a fatty didnt work but maybe its cuz he did a shitty job with shitty materials ?

I've seen similar rec'd for high strength mounting of threaded rods in bots - cut a clearance whole larger than thread diameter, fill with epoxy & filler, add threaded rod/screw, let sit.

not that I don't believe ttips, just not sure how much strength would be added from the relatively little epoxy remaining in a good screw.

This shit again.

Remember not to use epoxy with foam core skis as it can cause global thermonuclear war or something.

I use slow set marine epoxy. This stuff:

http://www.homedepot.ca/product/lepa...e-epoxy/973090

I left it cure just little (1 hour) before screwing in the bindings.

The screws always come out fine, just with a nice down-force while twisting. And they leave nice threads that re-screw the next time.

Mind you, that's all overkill. I hear Gorilla glue is just fine to lube the screws and seal the pores.

Originally Posted by Hugh Conway

I've seen similar rec'd for high strength mounting of threaded rods in bots - cut a clearance whole larger than thread diameter, fill with epoxy & filler, add threaded rod/screw, let sit.

not that I don't believe ttips, just not sure how much strength would be added from the relatively little epoxy remaining in a good screw.

I take my cue from the abuse of WW kayak's & paddles where you find any resin rich layup is not as strong (why they vacum bag out the extra resin?)so I make sure to add lots of chopped 1/2" long FG filler strand, I make sure to wet out the FG but Ideally I want to end up with more wetted FG filler than epoxy in a damaged screw hole

After a curing time if I can tighten down the screw, if it doesnt spin or pull out the hole is fixed, if the binding is still attached to the ski 5 yrs later it worked and it has for me ... not an engineer but I fix stuff