Spinner Screws

[tundra]

Ok, the other day while mounting up a set of bindings, I spun out 2 screws on the same side of one heel. I can see 1 screw but 2 - WTF. Brand new skis - I hope there’s no flaw in the core or whatever. I know there’s a number of options out there but I would like your opinions whether a helicoil is better than an insert or vice versa? Also should I helicoil, use inserts for all 4 holes on the heel? Mucho gracious.
Think snow eh!

[DRZ1050i]

I just ordered some new skis a couple days ago.... I'm going inserts for all holes FWIW.



And easy there Hercules! lol

[tundra]

What type of inserts are you going to use? Can you use regular binding screws or do you need machine screws?

[DRZ1050i]

http://www.bindingfreedom.com/


check em out. The site is ran by a guy on these boards. You need machine screws.

[JayPowHound]

2 spinners = 2 helicoils. http://www.slidewright.com/svst-heli...k.html?cat=132 Done.

[DropCliffsNotBombs]

The plastic pound-in "heli coils" are actually more bomber than metal heli coils since they expand teeth into the core when torqued rather than just "hanging" a metal coil in there. They carry higher pull-out strength ratings because of this.

That's my two cents...

[bfree]

Before bothering with helicoils or inserts, I just use some steel wool and/or epoxy. If they pull out, then go to inserts. In my experience, it'll work just fine and the $2, 5 minute solution wins.

[spicoli424]

Before bothering with helicoils or inserts, I just use some steel wool and/or epoxy. If they pull out, then go to inserts. In my experience, it'll work just fine and the $2, 5 minute solution wins.

Yeah but what happens when you loose the whole toe/heel piece when they pull out from shotty work, then your fucked. although the steel wool and epoxy seems to work fine

[Alpinord]

FTR

Nylon or brass pound/tap-ins require 5/16" hole and bottoms should be sealed with at least glue or sealant. Heli coils and stainless steel inserts (Binding Freedom & Quiver Killers) require 1/4" hole. Heli-coils and ss inserts require tapping and epoxy. (Alpine screw holes are 3.5 to 4.1mm ~ 5/64" to 5/32").

Tap-ins are super easy, fast and cheap and require fewer tools...and work as DCNB says due to the expansion and pullout resistant strength. (I posted an insert chart/pull-out spec on a thread about inserts in Took my ski in to get a sheared off screw out, they put a plastic insert in???). Everyone should have a few nylon tap-ins around IMO for emergencies. They seem counter intuitive, but work.

Personally, I'd install ss inserts due to the flexibility they provide to swap bindings with other skis.

[XXX-er]

Before bothering with helicoils or inserts, I just use some steel wool and/or epoxy. If they pull out, then go to inserts. In my experience, it'll work just fine and the $2, 5 minute solution wins.

it also works for me but I would make sure to use the good 24 hr slow-set epoxy not 5 min and I use fibreglass cloth strands chopped to 1/2 " instead of steel wool

if you do a good job with good materials, wet the FG out as much as possible but not be using it resin rich, let it cure for a day before you crank the screws tight and the screw holds ... how much different is that than a screw in a ski top ?

I did this with a tele set up ... way more torque on a tele binding than a alpine setup

[tundra]

Thanks for all your comments and opinions. Spoke to a couple of shop techs and both of them said - go with the helicoils vs the inserts (brass screw in type). Although the Quiver Killers and Freedom Inserts were tempting, I bite the bullet and went with the helicoils. Hopefully this fix will be worry free.

Cheers

[skimaxpower]

I bite the bullet and went with the helicoils.

Good call.

[arild]

I had a problem with one spinner on my Ragnaroks - no metal. After a bit of thinking, I decided to fill the screw hole with epoxy, drill out a regular plastic plug (for plugging unused holes) with a 2.5mm drill bit, then let it all set for 24 hours, and mounted the heel piece.

The idea, with the smaller diametre hole, was that the plastic (and epoxy, being sort-of flexible), would expand when the binding screw would enter and drill it´s way down. It´s probably not as strong as a well drilled hole, but I can´t see this pulling out if not all the other screws decided to go, too. (center hole for Sollies).

Probably not an ideal solution, but I don´t have helicoils available, and this was an extremely cheap way of fixing things. Will report back if there are any issues regarding pull out.

[Smails]

Bumping this thread to ask a question:

What do you all consider a "spinner" - as in how bad does it have to be to require attention. I mounted some 916s in old holes last night. I had one screw in the rear of each heel piece, actually the left rear in both, that I can continue to screw. I removed the bindings by hand with a posi, and installed them the same way. I was hoping to be careful and not strip anything . . . didn't completely work.

My question is, when we talk about spinners are we talking about holes that are completely stripped and screw spins with very little force, or do my screws also count as spinners? It isn't as though they turn easily, but they do turn. Also, how risky is skiing with one spinner per ski in light of the 5th middle screw on the 916 heel piece?

[Johnny Deep]

A spinner is when the screw stops biting and you can feel it failing. You can epoxy them with good results sometimes, if it's not totally gone.

[Smails]

What I am saying is that the screw had bite all the way in, but I could continue to turn it -with a reasonable amount of force- once it was flush.

Where I am going with my question is that there are obviously varying degrees of "spinners" and hoping someone will tell me that mine doesn't sound that severe .... Maybe wishful thinking, but just wondering.

[Alpinord]

Obviously concern was aroused in your head. It doesn't 'sound' too severe, like if it's spinning without any threads left. As JD said, epoxy might keep things from moving. I'd do that if I was in doubt. If not, tap-in inserts might be your next best step...or ss threaded inserts.