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  1. #576
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    WA
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    2,524
    Quote Originally Posted by vostok4 View Post
    Just did my first mount, Tyrolia Adrenalins onto High Society FRs, followed lots of advice here, bought some scrap wood and mounted on the scrap first, I didn't use paper templates but a wax paper template that came with the bindings. Test mount = perfect. Real mount = toe piece went about 1mm too close to heel piece, as the walk/ski "hooks" at the heel don't allow the binding to freely release up and down (and I guess the coverage isn't that much when its locked, but I don't see that being a problem).

    Need to dremel off a bit of the plastic to get them to move, only about 1mm and that's not plastic that faces the locking edge. Kind of sucks, but gotta screw up to learn I guess. I wonder if the wax paper shrunk (was about 6*C when I was drilling outside), since both mounts are exactly the same amount too close...

    Anyways, thanks for all the info in the thread!
    One option that might work: Loosen the binding screws a bit, re-center the binding, re-tighten the screws. If this works, it could save you from dremeling your new bindings. If you try this, be sure to re-glue the binding holes to prevent water from creeping in.

  2. #577
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Park City
    Posts
    5,013
    Mounted more of my own fucking skis last night.

    Dynafits x 2 and the 5yr olds looks. No spinners but did need to work to center 1 out of 4 of the dynafit toes.


    Killing it with the 3-5 year old crowd!
    I rip the groomed on tele gear

  3. #578
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    switzerland
    Posts
    45
    Quote Originally Posted by skimaxpower View Post
    One option that might work: Loosen the binding screws a bit, re-center the binding, re-tighten the screws. If this works, it could save you from dremeling your new bindings. If you try this, be sure to re-glue the binding holes to prevent water from creeping in.
    I just don't have enough play on any of the holes to get as much clearance as I need, as the screws get tightened down on the toe piece it really locks down to where it is, without much room for adjustment. The dremeling should be ok, I'm not too concerned about fucking things up.

  4. #579
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    NWCT
    Posts
    2,363
    Quote Originally Posted by vostok4 View Post
    The dremeling should be ok, I'm not too concerned about fucking things up.
    Atta boy, that's the spirit!

  5. #580
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    The Netherlands
    Posts
    203
    Installed some inserts yesterday. First time for me. Had no problems but next time I really want a drill stopper. Couldnt find that in the right size. Didnt go to deep but its so much easier and quicker with a stopper.
    Plum Yaks on Moment Tahoe and Moment Exit world.

  6. #581
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Boston
    Posts
    1,445
    Quote Originally Posted by Lambert View Post
    Installed some inserts yesterday. First time for me. Had no problems but next time I really want a drill stopper. Couldnt find that in the right size. Didnt go to deep but its so much easier and quicker with a stopper.
    Plum Yaks on Moment Tahoe and Moment Exit world.
    Try McMaster Carr, they have a huge range of available sizes. I got mine there for drilling inserts.

  7. #582
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Juneau
    Posts
    1,093
    Quote Originally Posted by Lambert View Post
    Didnt go to deep but its so much easier and quicker with a stopper.
    You have a steady hand or didn't drink enough. Stepped bits are great:

    http://www.slidewright.com/alpine-bi...drill-bits.php

    But collars are good and can serve your life beyond skis:

    http://www.slidewright.com/drill-bit...nd-hex-key.php

  8. #583
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Somewhere else
    Posts
    5,676
    There's no stepped bit (yet) for installing inserts (5/16").
    Goal: ski in the 2018/19 season

  9. #584
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Posts
    13
    Quote Originally Posted by Lambert View Post
    I really want a drill stopper..... Didnt go too deep but its so much easier and quicker with a stopper.
    An easy alternative to do it without a drill stopper is to grind off your drill bit so that only the required length sticks out of the chuck - sorted!

  10. #585
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Juneau
    Posts
    1,093
    Quote Originally Posted by Shorty_J View Post
    There's no stepped bit (yet) for installing inserts (5/16").
    SVST makes (or has made) a 1/4" stepped bit that Slidewright sells for use with inserts or heli-coils. I've seen it and the step is very, very slight, so I feel more comfortable with the stop collar, but that may be unfounded. It's in the link above.

  11. #586
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Juneau
    Posts
    1,093
    Quote Originally Posted by Shorty_J View Post
    Well that's not 5/16",
    Interesting, I've been using an F bit or a 1/4" bit and 5/16" tap. No problems thus far (at least no one has come screaming back). Knocking on wood . . .

  12. #587
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Somewhere else
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    5,676
    Quote Originally Posted by dschane View Post
    Interesting, I've been using an F bit or a 1/4" bit and 5/16" tap. No problems thus far (at least no one has come screaming back). Knocking on wood . . .
    I haven't done inserts in a while... you're probably right.
    Goal: ski in the 2018/19 season

  13. #588
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    Chamonix
    Posts
    1,012
    Has anyone ever reused the front two toe holes of an existing Rossi/Look mount when mounting a new Salomon binding? I picked up some Dynastar Arno Adams for €10 (couldn't resist) drilled for Rossi/Look but I have some spare Salomons I'd like to mount on them. Dodging the holes would mean mounting 4mm back or 30mm forward of midsole but reusing those holes would put me at +18mm which is my preference of the 3 options given the olschool placement of the ski's midsole line.

    Those holes are 41.94mm width for Rossi/Look and 42.44mm width for Salomon (measuring in pixels from the templates at 1000ppi). So exactly 0.5mm difference meaning each of those holes would be exactly 0.25mm off where it should really be. Should I go for it? The skis won't likely be used for any serious skiing, have a good amount of metal in them and 0.25mm is maybe around the tolerance for printing a template then marking & drilling by hand anyway. When I mounted my Explosivs I didn't scale the template correctly and drilled the toe pattern 0.8mm too narrow and I got those screws in fine after a few tries (still holding fine 3 years later) but those were fresh holes not a pre-cut thread like I'm considering here.

    The rear toe holes would be 10.56mm clearance centre-to-centre which I'm OK with.

    Anyone? Otherwise should I go -4mm or +33mm on the Arnos?

    Last edited by LC; 11-22-2014 at 10:11 AM.

  14. #589
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    SoCal
    Posts
    6,748
    ^ Probably fine, but later this weekend I could measure the width difference using my Jigarex plates and let you know.
    Last edited by 1000-oaks; 11-22-2014 at 11:11 PM.

  15. #590
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    SoCal
    Posts
    6,748
    Quote Originally Posted by Lambert View Post
    Couldnt find that in the right size. Didnt go to deep but its so much easier and quicker with a stopper.
    I use this Fuller 1/4" drill stop, it's long so it's better aligned with the drill bit than short collars, which wobble a lot when they hit the ski. Two set screws make sure it doesn't slip (so you don't drill through the ski). And it's super cheap.
    W.L. Fuller 1/4 OR "E" (.250) DRILL STOP

  16. #591
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Sierra Foothills
    Posts
    677
    Quote Originally Posted by LC View Post
    and 0.25mm is maybe around the tolerance for printing a template then marking & drilling by hand anyway.
    I'd be happy if all my mounts were within +/- 0.25 mm. Since I'm normally drunk when doing the mounts, my mounts are more like +/- 1 mm. I offset it by skiing drunk. Hope this helps.

  17. #592
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    here and there
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    18,583
    Mounted my Kpows with some Look P18s today, metalic green on carbon fiber is so hawt.
    watch out for snakes

  18. #593
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1000-oaks View Post
    ^ Probably fine, but later this weekend I could measure the width difference using my Jigarex plates and let you know.



    Might want to edit the above post, if someone drills 5/16 holes to install inserts they're going to be TERRIBLY upset when their 5/16 tap falls right through the holes in their skis, lol.
    Deleted.

    1/4" is correct!!!
    Goal: ski in the 2018/19 season

  19. #594
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Posts
    302
    Quote Originally Posted by LC View Post
    Those holes are 41.94mm width for Rossi/Look and 42.44mm width for Salomon
    I beg your pardon?
    You meant to say, they are both 42mm apart, right?

  20. #595
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    NWCT
    Posts
    2,363

    PSA: Mount your own fucking skis.

    Just mounted up three pairs of fucking skis - one fucking pair for me (997s on Rossi Scimitars) and two fucking pairs for my friend (997s on EHPs and Dukes on Turbos) - with zero issues, thanks to this thread

    And to the point above, I used the front two holes of a previously drilled pivot/fks mount for my Solly mount with no problems.

  21. #596
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Sierra Foothills
    Posts
    677
    After mounting 25 plus sets of bindings with templates and hand layouts over the years I bought a fucking old jig for FKS/Pivots from a mag, and wow, mounting your own fucking skis is a dream. I did have to remove the centering clamps from the jig since they only handled sub 90 mm waist skis, but centering and clamping the jig is no big issue.

    If you like mounting your own fucking skis try buying an old jig if you can. Definitely worth the investment.

  22. #597
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Seattle
    Posts
    2,216
    Quote Originally Posted by Bosco View Post
    After mounting 25 plus sets of bindings with templates and hand layouts over the years I bought a fucking old jig for FKS/Pivots from a mag, and wow, mounting your own fucking skis is a dream. I did have to remove the centering clamps from the jig since they only handled sub 90 mm waist skis, but centering and clamping the jig is no big issue.

    If you like mounting your own fucking skis try buying an old jig if you can. Definitely worth the investment.
    Just get a jigarex. Money well spent.

  23. #598
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Sierra Foothills
    Posts
    677
    Quote Originally Posted by zeroforhire View Post
    Just get a jigarex. Money well spent.
    It does looks like a nice option, especially if one needs to mount multiple pairs of skis a year.

  24. #599
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    here and there
    Posts
    18,583
    Jiggyrex FTW!
    watch out for snakes

  25. #600
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Somewhere else
    Posts
    5,676
    So a friend of mine has decided not to go to the shop he used to go to for most things... prices and service being shit. He tried to take skis to another shop to move bindings from one pair of skis to another and they said they couldn't do it because they don't have a jig. First of all, that's weak sauce. So I said I'd do it for some beer... he saves money and doesn't have to go back to the original shop he doesn't want to give business to any more.

    So... when I was taking the bindings off I solidified my resolve to never pay someone else to mount a pair of my skis, ever… even if I don’t have a mount template I think I’d rather take my time and figure it out than pay some fucktard.

    Here’s why:

    When I was removing the screws on the toe of the first ski, at least one screw was not all the way in. I say at least because it never occurred to me to look for more than one… until I already had one binding off and was removing the other and saw 3 loose on the other ski’s toe piece. I have never seen this before so I have a hard time accepting that they all backed out on their own… probably just never tightened down enough. That’s both scary from a binding rip-out perspective but also from a performance perspective, since the toe would be sloppy. And the bindings are already-sloppy Fritschi's, so I'm surprised he could even ski on them!

    When I was removing the heels, there are 3 long screws and 1 short screw for each heel… it’s quite obvious where the short screw should go when you look at the thickness of the plastic baseplate where the 4 holes go. On both heels they had put the short screw where one of the long ones should go, meaning there was maybe 1 thread engaged instead of the 4 there should be. Which means there was a long screw where a short one should be. Result is that one screw is more likely to rip out because it doesn't have enough bite, and one screw is too deep into the ski and might have resulted in a high spot on the base because it went deeper in to the ski than the hole was drilled.

    On top of that, and I assume they used a jig, the holes were very slightly to the left side of the ski. That you will honestly probably never notice, but when I do mine by hand they are less than 0.5mm off centre.

    So basically, on the original mount he paid good money to a shop to do a shitfuck job. He just thought they were too expensive and kind of douchey when he made the decision to boycott... not that they actively sucked at what they do.

    Jesus.

    I'll say it again for posterity:

    Mount your own fucking skis! That is all.
    Goal: ski in the 2018/19 season

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