Thread: Sole canting on touring boots (with swappable soles)

I was wondering if anyone has found any solutions for sole canting on touring boots. For mainly touring and pow applications, alignment is maybe slightly less of a big deal than if you're ripping gates, but my Dynafit Titans will likely see a wide array of useage and I wouldn't mind doing some correction similar to what has been done on my alpine boots.

Because the Titans have screw-on soles, one possibility is to use washers on sole screws on one side to induce some canting. This is suggested here: http://www.doglotion.com/gear-review...-x-boot-review. What are the thoughts on this? As a more secure option, maybe wedge shims could be installed between the sole blocks and boot, if such parts were available.

Otherwise, are there any other good solutions? Ideally the tech fittings need to be canted as well, which means that the entire lug needs to tilt as opposed to just planing the soles.

I guess there is also the option of shimming the bindings, but I like the idea of getting the boots dialed better.

I think you'd have better luck putting shims under the bindings or working on the liners/boot cuffs than trying to shim the connection between the swappable soles and the boot. The sole/boot connection is accomplished by first sliding the sole on/into a track that's molded into the boot. They aren't just screwed on. In fact, the screws are sort of secondary in terms of keeping the soles attached. The plastic track system is really what keeps them on.

Originally Posted by Sinecure

I think you'd have better luck putting shims under the bindings or working on the liners/boot cuffs than trying to shim the connection between the swappable soles and the boot. The sole/boot connection is accomplished by first sliding the sole on/into a track that's molded into the boot. They aren't just screwed on. In fact, the screws are sort of secondary in terms of keeping the soles attached. The plastic track system is really what keeps them on.

I see... I haven't taken the soles off yet but that's good to know.

The screws are really just there to keep the things from sliding off. In fact, be careful when you put them back on that you don't overtighten the screws. It would be very easy to strip the holes since you're just screwing into plastic. There are no t-nuts on the inside of the boot. Never use a screw gun / drill when putting them back on - just hand-tighten.

And a tip. When you're trying to get the heel off and the damned thing won't budge - it is because you forgot to take the screw out of the metal part in the back where the dynafit pins go in. You'll see what I mean when you go to do it.

Also interested in this topic. Is shimming the bottom of the footbed a viable option. Also, has anyone had any luck putting shims under dynafits? Does this introduce odd torque on the bindings whilst skinning? Any specific tactics for shimming would be greatly appreciated.

I have had good success canting most of the bindings I've ever used- recently dynafits, but also Solli, Fritschi, and G3s. It doesn't go well when loaning out skis, but great for me. I was hesitant to do it to the dynafits, but so far it has worked well and everything is holding tight. Seems with super fats, the feel of a flat interface between ski and snow is that much more noticeable- even skinning.