Thread: Need glue in holes? Mount question

Originally Posted by marshalolson

it retains the screw from backing out as well as epoxy. epoxy is way way, way, way way way overkill. its not as strong as epoxy if you need to fix a delam, but its as strong as epoxy for mounting a binding.

sorry, hopefully more clear.

I read the spec sheets and info on the site but I either missed or the info was not there exactly what kind of glue marine goop is but I am assuming some kind of liquid ureathane?

it is urethane based.

but RTV adhesive is my #2 favorite (and that is silicone based), and assuredly what your shop uses. in practice (i.e. for using in ski mounting), RTV and marine 1 part are rather similar in texture and retention.

wood glue is water based, and that is why i prefer not to use it. it certainly is fine, and will likely not have an issue... but tell my why you want to introduce a dollop of water into the core of your ski? the top skin is not porous, so the water cannot escape. the water permeates into the core as the glue "dries".

Mount my own skis and read all I can for education. Saw a post recently on this subject by a guy in the know that made sense. Seems one problem in re mounting skis is that the consistency of manufactured ski screws is lax. The same pitch/diameter is not always the same pitch/diameter which can lead to voids that leads to loosening. I made the move from wood glue to epoxy. Goop and silicone will keep the water out but do not add strength. Shops mount with silicone because it works 90+% of the time and is way faster to apply than epoxy, IMO. Had a "very reputable" shop do a mount for me last year on a metal topped ski. The shop rat used silicone, volcanoed 5 of the holes and stripped one.

so probably aqua seal or seam grip which I use to fix damn near every soft good would also work?

Originally Posted by wooley12

volcanoed 5 of the holes and stripped one.

Not really an issue of what adhesive he was or wasn't using?

My gorilla glue was dried up last night so I ended up using TiteBond 3, which is supposed to be waterproof:
http://www.titebond.com/IntroPageTB....uctIntroTB.asp

But we will see how it goes.

Originally Posted by PNWbrit

Not really an issue of what adhesive he was or wasn't using?

No, just an aside to highlight the "need for speed" when a shop does your mount. Obviously didn't use a tap. Actually, on a new mount with a wood core ski I might use a Titebond III myself as it sets up solid. The teeny bit of moisture wouldn't add much the the moisture content already in the wood. Titebond does not adhere to foam as I was told by the folks at Titebond while researching a fix for a Manaslu spinner. I'd never use a flexible glue. But that's just me and there really is no always right/always wrong to this thread IMO.

Originally Posted by TheDon

There is no way this question hasn't been answered before.

And no doubt I read it all in the past, but my retention is blurred by my propensity to get inebriated. Yes, I searched too.

To the OP,

The main reason to use glue is to prevent your wood core rotting over time from water getting in. There should be plenty of strength in the core and fibreglass layers to hold your screws in providing the core doesn't rot.
Contrary to the first replyI would say it is definitely worth backing the screws out and waterproofing them. The best options are an epoxy, siliocone, or goop style glue which form a proper barrier layer. Standard waterproof wood glue is not the best for this application - it it designed to bond wood together and not release if it gets wet. It's is not designed to form a waterproof barrier layer.

A lot of people seem to suggest Gorilla glue and (if it is the same stuff that we get over here in europe) it is not the right thing to use as it is a foaming PU glue which does not create a waterproof seal.

Originally Posted by gritter

... form a proper barrier layer...

are you suggesting a bunch of mini-condoms to go over each screw? seems like a lot of fluffing for a simple mount!?!

Originally Posted by jfost

are you suggesting a bunch of mini-condoms to go over each screw?

I like to think of it more as a gasket... perhaps a head gasket.

So then what is the "official" shit from like Holmenkol, SVST, or the manufacturers? It sure looks like wood glue (even if some of it is colored blue).

Originally Posted by gritter

A lot of people seem to suggest Gorilla glue and (if it is the same stuff that we get over here in europe) it is not the right thing to use as it is a foaming PU glue which does not create a waterproof seal.

Gorrila glue is poly ureathane glue and it seeks out water which is the bubbling action, the way I use it is to spit in the holes, poke around with a nail to get the wood in the hole all moist, put some GG in the hole , it WILL seek out the moisture and I think it does water proof the hole but its not very structuraly strong


I had GG or something similar injected into my basement wall to waterproof a 5' floor to ceiling crack, watching this stuff seek out water was cool and it it absolutely fixed a big leak cheap n easy ... <300$ and 3hrs

http://www.crackmasterconcrete.com/proSeries.html

Originally Posted by XXX-er

Gorrila glue is poly ureathane glue and it seeks out water which is the bubbling action, the way I use it is to spit in the holes, poke around with a nail to get the wood in the hole all moist, put some GG in the hole , it WILL seek out the moisture and I think it does water proof the hole but its not very structuraly strong


I had GG or something similar injected into my basement wall to waterproof a 5' floor to ceiling crack, watching this stuff seek out water was cool and it it absolutely fixed a big leak cheap n easy ... <300$ and 3hrs

http://www.crackmasterconcrete.com/proSeries.html

Polyureathane glue is NOT for mounting bindings. It expands and puts pressures on the binding base and the skis core. Don't use it!

Plus, it's NEVER a good idea to put moisture into a skis core!

Originally Posted by PNWbrit

Marsh is that stuff a silicone?

A much loved local store here swears by using silicone adhesive.

I've been using silicone adhesive for a while to good effect. The main reason is that it stays flexible at cold temps - I was noticing that wood glue in some holes I'd filled had cracked badly. Even if the wood glue is waterproof, the cracks were letting moisture in. The silicone adhesive doesn't have that problem, and is strong enough to keep the screws from backing out.

Originally Posted by DropCliffsNotBombs

Polyureathane glue is NOT for mounting bindings. It expands and puts pressures on the binding base and the skis core. Don't use it!

Plus, it's NEVER a good idea to put moisture into a skis core!

too late already used GG, nothing blew up, the GG instructions tell you to wet surfaces to be glued ... but don't drool