Thread: DIY Binding Adapter Plate - Duke to Dynafit to ???

Subscribing.

anyone get a chance to try theirs out yet with the fresh snow in the PNW

being new to all this binding stuff, and wanting to give it a try myself,

a few thoughts to add, The standard threads are M5 X.8 ? Why is this ideal?

Now taking that you said it was hard to find metric/stainless/ t-nuts what about using something like this, http://www.captive-fastener.com/installation.html, a captive fastener, i could be counter bored pretty easily, but with about 3m stack height its not too bad, Now i know that these are not necissarily designed for ductile materials but they just really need to stay in place,
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/Cap...TG5?Pid=search
http://www.mcmaster.com/#captive-nuts/=eyrhjz

Also what about using some sort of epoxy/bonding to keep the nuts from spinning?

This is awesome, so does any one have any beta yet with the snow flying?

A few thoughts as I am just getting into this (inserts/swap plates/ doing my own mounting), Ideal thread is M5 x.8? why is this?

Have you guys thought about trying to use some captive nuts instead, something like, http://www.captive-fastener.com/installation.html, they are designed for metal but in reality you only need the nut to stay in place, as they will self cinch themselves. You could counter bore them, with a relative stack height of 3mm seems not too bad, also they come in SS and in metric threads, some alternatives
http://www.mcmaster.com/#captive-nuts/=eyrhjz or http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/Cap...TG5?Pid=search both priced pretty reasonably well, just not sure how the OD would work with proximity to other holes?

Also what are your thoughts on trying to bond/epoxy some nuts in place inside of the plate to keep them in place and from turning?

Just some thoughts, anyway I think what you guys are doing is great and I just need to find some time to get out and get going on my setup.

M5 x .8 is the threading on the inserts that are already installed in the skis... I went with 10-32 for the tee-nuts in my plate.

I don't really know much about those captive nuts, but they look like they have less surface area to avoid pulling out compared to the tee-nuts.

FYI: 10-32 and M5 are such similar thread forms that you can interchange them if its just a few threads. I don't recommend it, but it can be done in a pinch!

Those captive nuts you linked are not designed to work in plastic. I personally wouldn't trust it, but I'm a little anal.

No I do agree that they are not designed to work in plastic, but maybe with an AL plate, but in reality as long as they wouldn't pull through the plate(cutting board) and allowed you to tighten without spinning, they would hold, the key is if they would pull though, because in reality its the clamping force which hold them in place right. Just looking at something that was SS and in metric threads, I am sure there are other better options though.

Those T-nuts have holes in them where you can install nails to keep it from spinning.
Idea: heat up a nail, sink it in and snip the excess off.

I'm going to try a version of this for my FKS + Plum experiments.

The front seems pretty straight forward.
Inserts in the ski for FKS and the plate, holes+tnuts in the plate for Plum/Dynafit.

The back is tricky because the FKS holes are way far forward than the Plum/Dynafit holes.
Simply following the strategy for the front isn't going to work because of the leverage.

What I will probably end up doing is installing inserts into the ski for the two rear holes for the Plum/Dynafit, inserts for the four rear holes of the FKS and then using a long screw to go through the Plum, through the plate and into the rear inserts. Optionally, the rear holes for both bindings are very well spaced out so just installing inserts for both sets and passing four longs screws through a rear plate might work too.

Originally Posted by Shorty_J

M5 x .8 is the threading on the inserts that are already installed in the skis... I went with 10-32 for the tee-nuts in my plate.

I don't really know much about those captive nuts, but they look like they have less surface area to avoid pulling out compared to the tee-nuts.

http://www.boltdepot.com/Product-Det...?product=10483
Here is a site for hardware.

^^^ Nice... parts are cheap even in SS on there. Too bad they don't ship to Canada.

So did you get out on them yet?

I haven't yet.

I took them out last Friday. No surprises, they work great. Didn't really push them too hard, but nothing has led me to believe there will be any problems.

I spent the first half of the day on my Dukes at the resort, then switched to the Dyanfit plates in the parking lot. I don't recommend making a habit of that, but it can be done in about 20 minutes if you need to.

These will be getting quite a bit of use this season. Pretty stoked to have the option of making my "heavy" boards a little more touring friendly. I'll just make sure I do the swap the night before, in the comfort of my garage.

Bumping this. Jondrums, any plans of producing the toe plates?

Originally Posted by D(C)

Bumping this. Jondrums, any plans of producing the toe plates?

And the heels. Such a cool idea.

Question: Why couldn't I do that with my existing dynadukes? Instead if mounting them in the outer holes, insert the ski and use longer screws through the duke holes and then mount your dynafits on it? Maybe the screws will be too high but I think it would work other than that.

http://www.tetongravity.com/forums/s...-Guide-Adapter

In this thread, I proposed a toe-plate solution, but didn't get much interest. I'd need to make at least 50 pairs for this to make sense.

Originally Posted by jondrums

http://www.tetongravity.com/forums/s...-Guide-Adapter

In this thread, I proposed a toe-plate solution, but didn't get much interest. I'd need to make at least 50 pairs for this to make sense.

I have seen that, but wasn't as concerned about the heel. I just want the insert option so my dukes are flat and put a plated plum on my skis. How many people you got now?

Used mine on the weekend. Didn't ski them hard at all, but had no surprises... everything worked good.

Bumping this. Any long-term issues by 10% Groomed or Shorty_J?

I'm making a pair right now for an FKS/Plum adaptation. I think I'll probably have to go with an aluminum plate at some point, but can't beat the cost of the HDPE + tee nuts as a prototype. Will post pics at some point if there's interest.

Still only used mine once and mildly... nothing more to offer... sorry.

Here are pics of this same adapter made for Plums. As you can see, with Plums you could move the 4 holes forward a bit on adapter to have better access to the Duke screws, since there is no need for the "5th" hole for Dyna. I have not put them on skis yet, I need to get some metric screws to fit the inserts. Dukes mounted into inserts w/ no problems. I will post pics when I get these on skis. I would be nice if that Plum heel plate was just a little longer, so those front holes would access the Duke holes, maybe someday??

So how are these holding up guys, getting ready to make a set for spring touring....

Skied mine pretty hard a few times on my stiff 191 Bro Fats. I just have a toe-piece adapter for FKS to plum. No big drops or anything, but they skied just fine. I think the biggest torque on the plate is in tour mode, and I even did some ski mountaineering with no issues - lots of kickturns in steep, somewhat-exposed places without ski crampons (skis are too wide and my narrower ones were waiting for inserts). Would prefer it be made out of metal, but I think it's fine for now.

Bumping a good thread. Plum had initially led me to believe that their new "freeride" baseplates would match the Duke pattern, but it didn't end up that way so we're on our own.