Thread: BD sole block swapping

So I just swapped out my tech ("AT") sole blocks on my BD Methods for alpine so it they are compatible with more of my bindings this season. However, I am putting swap plates on a pair of skis and might get (dont currently have) a pair of dynafits.

Question is this- when i swapped my blocks, it seemed to me like something you might not want to do over and over- especially on the heel- the threads of the screws tap directly into plastic. the toes less so as they have a threaded metal insert. has anyone gone back and forth (or know anything about going back and forth) more than a couple of times which i would have to do were i to use those boots with all my skis? Thanks in advance.

I have finished 2 seasons with my factors (season =140ish and 100+ days) with most days out on the factors and about 60-40 the latter. Anyways, I have swapped them a bunch and the screw "engages" with a positive feel still. I was worried about it at first and am careful to put them in straight. So far no problem, however I can see them wearing out if you are doing it like every fricken time. I ski alot on dukes though and do leave the AT blocks on with them alot to avoid changing them as much as I would have to otherwise. But still it's been a lot of changes so far so good.

thanks for the feedback, sounds good.

Just leave the AT soles on and use Solly driver toe alpine bindings.

hmmmmm there might be a set of alpine sole blocks in gear swap soon.

I have garmonts with swapable soles that use 9 screws per side into plastic, I run the screws out real fast with a screw gun but I put them back in by hand, I turn the screw counterclockwise till i feel the screw "drop" into the old thread and then I turn the screws all the way in clockwise by hand and don't over tighten which takes about 15minutes total ...no stripped screws yet

I see people using at boots in a alpine binding for just getting around on the hill which is a a maybe but i wouldnt do that for real skiing

switched 50+ times over 3 years with no troubles at all.

So-far-so-good with a number of switches for me, too, using the counter-clockwise set-up described above to avoid cross-threading. (Just make sure never to leave your boot-board at home after the switch -- it takes a lot of cardboard and duct tape to fashion a new one.)

I have the Dynafit Zzeus. Same sort of set-up. I was concerned at first too (still am, sorta). I don't swap a lot, but I'm careful putting the screws back into the plastic. Keep in mind it is more the big lip/slide that's holding the sole blocks on, not the screws. I'd still be happier with t-nuts or at least metal inserts though. I guess weight is a factor and 16 t-nuts would get heavy.

have you tried leaving the touring (dynafit) part on the rear of the boot and just swapping the front between alpine and touring?

at least on the factors, the front screws are much easier to handle. and for most bindings, the safety issue is mostly about having the right stack height and (lack of) friction for the sideways release on the front part of the binding (and thus boot).

maybe give it a try and adjust your alpine bindings for the mixed sole setup.

Originally Posted by SgtSkidmark

Just leave the AT soles on and use Solly driver toe alpine bindings.

I did a bunch of experimentation on this last season. The driver toe has almost but not quite enough adjustment to clear my touring boot. It clicks in the bindings, but the side release is not consistent because of the rubber sole and non-sliding AFD. I would caution that if you do this, expect the possibility of a non-release.

Originally Posted by herr_stoiber

have you tried leaving the touring (dynafit) part on the rear of the boot and just swapping the front between alpine and touring?

No compatibility problems with the AT heel piece and alpine binder? If so this is the ticket....rears are a PITA to swap.

Originally Posted by TripleT

No compatibility problems with the AT heel piece and alpine binder? If so this is the ticket....rears are a PITA to swap.

can't be sure for all bindings but I did a quick test run with my alpine binding when I got the AT sole in spring and it appeared to work. even on the dukes or fritschis you never adjust the rear height (or am I off here?) so I guess it should be allright. will report back after further testing in december.

I run the screws out real fast with a screw gun but I put them back in by hand, I



I would be wary of the screw gun thing. I have heard that it is the heat caused from the ultra fast friction that can lead to degredation of plastic and "sketchyness"