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08-31-2011, 09:42 PM #1
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any reason why this won't work? ( 135mm to 142mm)
My new frame requires a 142mm / 12mm thru. I'd like to try to use my old 135mm / 12mm thru. Can I just add 3.5mm washers on each side of the axle?
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08-31-2011, 10:54 PM #2
Te mortuo heres tibi sim?
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So long as they fit properly into the slot/groove/whatever bits on the frame, can't see how it wouldn't work.
Florence Nightingale's Stormtrooper
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08-31-2011, 11:27 PM #3
yawn.
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What brand hub? Some are convertible.
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08-31-2011, 11:32 PM #4131crew Guest
Not sure if it would work or not, but I'm curious so post your results.
I think it's a possibility that the brake caliper and/or rotor could require some serious shimming to set up rub free if you do it this way.
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09-01-2011, 12:06 AM #5
Gapper Jong, M.D.
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And the chainline could be another problem.
Originally Posted by 131crew
Originally Posted by Socialist
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09-01-2011, 07:33 AM #6
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Although you'll probably have to shim the brake a bit and possibly redish the wheel this should work fine.
If it were me, I'd probably put washers on the NON-drive side only, redish the wheel (more even tension this way) and then shim my brake adapter over.
Should work 100% fine.
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09-01-2011, 07:42 AM #7
bikeboatbrewski
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I am very interested in this also, trying to line up a Ibis Mojo frame to build up but the newer ones have the 142MM. My fix will probably involve the Stans Flow hoops setting in my basement.
You are the mission Bob.
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09-01-2011, 09:27 AM #8
bikepathlete
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not sure the exact spacing on either side of the hub for a 142mm, but when you convert a dt or hope from 135 to 142 you don't need to re-dish or anything like that. considering washers are like $.18 i would recommend buying a bunch of 1mm width washers and seeing where the brake and derailleur line up best, then getting a solid washer in the correct width to center the wheel properly.
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09-01-2011, 09:33 AM #9
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My only reason for the redish comment is it would be most ideal...if you have the extra 7mm to get a more "centered" (tension) wheel. Why not take it?
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09-01-2011, 09:50 AM #10
bikepathlete
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because the axle drops into dropouts on both sides and won't fit unless there are some spacers on both sides.
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09-01-2011, 10:07 AM #11
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I don't follow. If its a 135x12 hub you are merely shimming. You can shim in whatever configuration keeps the wheel straight (hence my redish comment).
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09-01-2011, 10:21 AM #12
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Originally Posted by JeffreyJim
With 142 all they have done is make the end caps larger so they seat into the slots on the drop out. So you can't just shim anywhere you want.
One problem with shims is it's going to suck putting the hub in and out of the frame and fiddling with the shims. You can convert many hubs these days, if you know the hub manufacture you can search if a replacement axle is available.
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09-01-2011, 10:29 AM #13
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Ahh... for my current configuration the 10mm through bolt sits in the dropouts, not any part of the hub itself (if that makes sense)
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09-01-2011, 07:47 PM #14
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Well, it defeats the whole purpose of a 142mm hub but at least I don't have to buy a new hub. and yea I checked to see if Azonic makes an extended end cap and I couldn't find one.
I couldn't find a 3.5mm washer in the right diameter so I had to make one. With a sharp hacksaw and file it actually went fast.
Seems to fit. I'll report back after some on dirt testing.
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09-01-2011, 09:43 PM #15
bikepathlete
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nice solution. that should work great.
you for sure can get a 142mm axle for that hub. the azonic axle is compatible with a ton of joytech hubs, specifically the stock ibis hub in the build kit, so likely you can get the axle from ibis direct.
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