Thread: fixed angle problem on freerides

i found that my freerides sorta led me to be a bit backseat mounted on my already backsetup stiff ass explosives. i have solved the great ramp angle solution with zero expenses.

the technical difficulty came with lifting the back and lifting the arch that hold the bar in place that prevents it from tweaking. Some marker buindings come with a little plastic shim for the back part, we take it off when we mount them on certain plates. Same goes with the looks. These plates are long enough to lift the back piece and the arch. The second problem came with scews. i needed new longer scews because of the lift, found them in the look scew kit that comes with lifters. et voila.

while i took the binders off, took time to clean the base, brand new colder race structure, edge sharpnin, shove the skis in the oven for a nice 12hour bake session and still trying to de-bend them, phunk.

anyhow. will see how feels when able to ski

Have you tried using those plastic strips that racers use for binding cants. I've used those before with no problems at all.

its something similar to that

Does this give you more angle that just removing the toe shim? What are the advantages to your method vs removing the toe shim? Thanks.

well one of the disadvantages of (my) the method is that you are even higher up.


the advantage is that you keep the shim there. its there for a purpose (i guess ???)

I suppose. I know mntlion removed the toe shim with no probs. I think I'll start by doing that. Seems to be the easiest first step.

I thought about removing the shim, then looked at it with the engineer in me. After looking at it, there is no way in hell I would not put that shim in the front of the binding. That shim is there to distribute the force applied to the front of the binding. If you remopve it, most if not all of the force is applied directly to the screws. This means that you will be more likely to pull the front of your binding out of the ski. I have personally gone with dude's idea of putting a little bit of extra lift in the back. I just used a peice of plexi glass and cut it to fit.

Maybe others have gotten this to work, but not on my skis.

Originally posted by LCC
I thought about removing the shim, then looked at it with the engineer in me. After looking at it, there is no way in hell I would not put that shim in the front of the binding. That shim is there to distribute the force applied to the front of the binding. If you remopve it, most if not all of the force is applied directly to the screws. This means that you will be more likely to pull the front of your binding out of the ski. I have personally gone with dude's idea of putting a little bit of extra lift in the back. I just used a peice of plexi glass and cut it to fit.

Maybe others have gotten this to work, but not on my skis.

Thanks. That's the sort of info I've been looking for about the Fritschi's. Everyone I talk to was a little unsure about removing the shim, but didn't know why.....I guess I'll look into rigging a little shim for the back. How thick was the plexi glass you used?

I think I used someplace around 5mm, but not exatly sure. Just go to the store and buy a sheet you think would be the height you would want.

You might be able to find something already made as well. Good luck!

I'm looking forward to hearing how this works once you get to ski them. The angle has been my biggest complaint about my Fritchis.

i would say i'm between 4 an 6 mm

I gotta laugh a little about some of the responses. It doesn't take a frikkin rocket scientist to figure this stuff out. If you like a certain binder angle, say S900 just try to replicate it. Put one boot in one ski, one in the other then note the diffence. Shim under the freeride until it looks the same. No big deal.

i took me a while to get around and do it. opening the drawer and look for screws was a pretty hard task too. Then the biggest part of it all was one or two shims. common dude. gimmi credit. finding the right shim was soo hard too.

I could raid the machine shop at work for shims. Nylon, Delrin (sp?), ABS. Anyone know of the best material? I would think plexi glass might shatter or crack. Anyway if anyone is having problems with material I can probably get some for free. Work is slow so I might be able to role up my sleeves and mill out desirable thickness

Since everyone is already here talking about FR's, just curious if anyone has put a spacer on the ski or in between the 3 "feet" of the heelpiece so there isn't so much play in the binding? The old Diamirs aren't that way so I can't imagine thats how they're supposed to be...