Results 101 to 125 of 385
Thread: Kenda BBG tire review
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07-26-2012, 12:30 PM #101
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07-26-2012, 02:44 PM #102
Rear tires are for skidding and cutties
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08-25-2012, 09:26 AM #103
Bump. Tried out the BBG for the first time yesterday and it ruled. Best thing I've tried on the late summer moondust and kitty litter.
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08-25-2012, 10:11 PM #104
I got the BBG/HM combo in UST and mounted them up tubeless last night for an epic ride today. The ride destroyed me, but the tires performed well. I ran 28psi and found them to roll noticeably faster than minions (duh) and they handled more predictably as well in the loose, desiccated loam and dust that is abundant this time of year. I wish that the HM was a little bigger volume but I like that is slides before the BBG in front. The slideage is controllable and the tires really do hook up with those beefy side knobs. As expected, the braking traction with the HM is pretty minimal, but then again it's basically a semi-slick. The BBG was more grippy all around and less drifty than I expected. Cool tire.
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08-27-2012, 09:56 AM #105
Been riding the 2.35 non-UST BBGs ghetto tubeless in the rear for a month in very dusty, sandy, and rocky conditions. No complaints. It's a killer rear tire.
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09-19-2012, 09:35 AM #106
hmm, bbg 2.1 or .35 for rear? I have read through a bunch of the posts but not sure if there's any consensus. I have been running conti x-kings UST 2.4's f/r and I would like something with more grip and bite. the BBG's look Ideal for Colorado conditions.
Be more like your dog...
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09-19-2012, 09:51 AM #107
boatbound, i wound look at the 2.1
its closer to a 2.2
the x-king 2.4 is closer to a 2.2 width (but very tall)
the BBG is going to offer significantly better bite regardless of size compared to the x-king regardless of size anyhow.
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09-19-2012, 10:05 AM #108
appreciated. would you run a 2.35 on the front? my focus is good climbing and cornering
Be more like your dog...
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09-19-2012, 10:08 AM #109
that is what i run, anyhow. 2.35 front, 2.1 rear.
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09-19-2012, 10:15 AM #110
thanks much
Be more like your dog...
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09-20-2012, 12:39 PM #111
if anyone see's a shop that has both a 2.35 and a 2.1 in stock please let me know.
Be more like your dog...
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09-20-2012, 03:15 PM #112
They'll have it to you in a few days:
http://www.universalcycles.com/shopp...s.php?id=37027
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09-20-2012, 11:14 PM #113
Anyone got an opinion on BBG vs El Moco (both 2.1 UST DTC) for a rear tire on an XC/AM bike in tahoe? Both look great for cornering - just concerned the BBG cornrow looks pretty low/shallow for straight climbing in loose sandy stuff, wondering if the El Moco might do a bit better.
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09-21-2012, 04:46 AM #114
one last question on the BBG- the issue of how far you need to rock the bike on corners came up in a discussion last night. A friend who rides a lot of front range stuff didn't like the looks of the bbg because he said it looks like requires a lot of angulation before the side tread hooks up with the large gap between the center tread and nobby's.
Comments?Be more like your dog...
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09-21-2012, 06:36 AM #115yelgatgab
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09-21-2012, 07:06 AM #116
point taken however since I am not the rider Marshal is, its not always an apple to apple comparison. I don't take DH switchbacks at 20mph so my guess is that I don't lay my bike over any where near the angles an expert rider may. My guess is most here aren't expert riders....
Be more like your dog...
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09-21-2012, 08:00 AM #117
do you refuse to tune your skis or sharpen their edges, just so you don't have to learn how to carve or bend a ski?
big intermediate knobs, like a nevegal, are like having rounded edges.
BBG is like having ceramic finished sharp edges.
i would say that the BBG is one of the most engaged, least drifty tires i have ever ridden. however, that is only true if you roll your bike over enough to engage the edge.
what width rim do you have?
wider rim = more square tread, hit the edge quicker.
narrow rim = rounded tread, need to lean much further over.
the BBG in general is fairly square.
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09-21-2012, 08:10 AM #118
I' m not going to debate the issue of the amount of tilt or the time lag required/experienced for turning at slow or high speed however I am still developing skills and try to not turn the wheel. Again, I appreciate your input but I do think there's a different between the demands of an expert vs. an intermediate. That doesn't mean your experiences are any less relevant or accurate. I do detune my ski's substantially to the POC and beyond so they don't grab making them easier to work isn't that similar?
I am running 21mm wheelsBe more like your dog...
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09-21-2012, 08:18 AM #119
Get a pair. As long as you're not in sticky mud, the braking and climbing traction of those things is worth it.
It's not like you need to lay your bike horizontal to turn them or anything. And everybody steers with their headsets in some places. They still work. It's just that the stuck on the rails feeling of them once you do lean over stands out.Besides the comet that killed the dinosaurs nothing has destroyed a species faster than entitled white people.-ajp
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09-21-2012, 08:22 AM #120
Sorry man!,
I was not trying to call you out, just making an analogy.
My point though is that most tires reinforce bad habits, the bbg IMO really helps to build good ones.
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09-21-2012, 09:05 AM #121
hey this is TGR, it ain't Epic! I am good with everyone. I didn't take offense. I am honest in my abilities as its what helps me improve. Know your weaknesses and strengths ya' know? Frontin' doesn't help. I was on the line with some NN's or these and would rather work with something that would allow me to improve and ride with confidence. Much thanks and appreciation
Be more like your dog...
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09-21-2012, 05:44 PM #122
Everybody has to turn the the bars to turn the bike, it's just that when you lean it over you have to turn them much less. Bikes actually have a dynamic wheelbase[1] that you can affect significantly by leaning the bike over (especially with the compressible fork on a mountain bike ). The shorter the wheelbase, the less you have to turn the bars. Most bike turn radii are much much longer that the wheelbase and you rarely turn the bars more than a few degrees. Shortening the wheel base even just a cm makes a difference.
I don't expect anybody to ever believe this; but if you're a physics nerd like me and can do vector force diagrams in your head, knowing how a bike really works helps a lot. It wasn't until I grokked why leaning over worked that I learned to use it more effectively.
If you aren't a physics nerd, just lean the bike over way more than you think you need to and enjoy.
[1]- distance between contact patches of the tires.
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09-21-2012, 05:49 PM #123Registered User
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Let's see some vector force diagrams.
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09-21-2012, 05:55 PM #124
They don't work against religion. Besides they are in my head and I'm not letting anybody from TGR in there...
If you seriously want to know look at this, he explains it much better than I can.
http://www.terrycolon.com/1features/bike.html
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09-23-2012, 08:02 PM #125
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