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Thread: Random surf stoke thread
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07-20-2011, 10:32 AM #26
I have to pull out my old computers to upload more photos. The ones on this computer are exhausted
This wave is the longest wave you could ever imagine and only breaks on a macking swell. This swell was pushing 10ft at 18 seconds on the buoys, I bet Puerto was Triple to Quad overhead this day.
If you look closely there are 2 guys on the inside waves and the wave has potential to go another 300 yards past where i was standing while taking the picture. When I walked up, the guy on the beach said Kolohe's last wave was pushing 700-800 yards, and I don't doubt him.
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07-20-2011, 11:09 AM #27
This session would have been a few notches better without the wind, the current was top notch though
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07-20-2011, 02:50 PM #28www.DeathCookieEntertainment.com
Sometimes fear just means that you need to push your shins into the front of your ski boots and fuckin send it!
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07-21-2011, 11:15 AM #29
I think surfers, more than most, can appreciate a quality shore break.
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07-24-2011, 07:49 PM #30
awesome !!
www.DeathCookieEntertainment.com
Sometimes fear just means that you need to push your shins into the front of your ski boots and fuckin send it!
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07-24-2011, 11:36 PM #31
That's raw power unleashing it's fury. You take those SM? If so, nice work
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07-25-2011, 08:38 AM #32
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07-25-2011, 10:55 PM #33
shores/scripps is/was always nice when the sandbars shaped-up good for a solid swell. thing about those kind of days, especially at blacks, is the size (or lack thereof) the crowd in the lineup. you'd find more people sitting outside the riptide between the peaks catching their breath than jockeying in the zone. and even less in the super hollow and DUMPING inside; too many folks scared of taking the rogues on the head and going through the spin cycle.
sorry, i have no pictures to share , but am enjoying the stoke. cheers
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07-26-2011, 09:55 AM #34www.DeathCookieEntertainment.com
Sometimes fear just means that you need to push your shins into the front of your ski boots and fuckin send it!
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07-26-2011, 10:13 AM #35
Yeah BH, the size down here isn't quite enough to keep the people out of the lineup often. That wave was probably the biggest wave I've witnessed pushed through scripps. My buddy pulled into a huge barrel on northside and got pinched on the exit, it smashed him on the head and cracked 2 of his teeth as a result. Dentist chair was his next stop.
I caught the afternoon session and it was classic south wind and it got cloudy/stormy. Spray flying off the back at 20mph and some of the biggest and dryest barrels I've ever witnessed there. It honestly looked like DOH Blacks and my 6'8" rounded pin was not enough due to the wind. Everyone was getting hung up but holy chit if I had a camera in the water, you could have fit my 4runner in some of the shacks pushing through. It was the day after a storm with both a windswell and groundswell combo, the morning session had many big lenses on the beach and many pros in the water, one of those kinda days
SM, those photos are sick! Shorepound is fun to watch, pure power. I haven't been to Kauai yet but my sis in law lives on oahu, so I'm sure one of these visits we'll head over. Can't wait to see that island, sounds amazing from everyone I've talked too. Did you get any waves? High Surf advisory on the North Shore is a whole different story than on the South. Pretty sure I'd have to find some wrap swell on days like thatLast edited by Piggity; 07-26-2011 at 10:25 AM.
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07-28-2011, 10:36 AM #36
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07-28-2011, 11:48 AM #37
Nice BR, he's hooked for life!
Small but fun day in Nica...
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07-31-2011, 05:58 PM #38
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08-01-2011, 11:47 AM #39
This is the best surf blog EVER !!!! (WARNING: NSFW!!!!!!!!!)
LOL-SURFLast edited by HotTate; 08-01-2011 at 02:26 PM.
www.DeathCookieEntertainment.com
Sometimes fear just means that you need to push your shins into the front of your ski boots and fuckin send it!
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08-01-2011, 01:28 PM #40
^NSFW but funny as hell! I could have dealt without seeing the cockandballs photos but overall pure comedy. (Not the joel tudor photo but the ones further down, save yourself from singeing your eyes and only scroll halfway down the blog)
HT, you get any surf this weekend? windy so i skipped it, let's grab a session on the next decent swellLast edited by Piggity; 08-01-2011 at 01:39 PM.
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08-01-2011, 02:26 PM #41
Opps, forgot to give the NSFW warning! I'll edit a warning in there.
I went to Blacks last week and it was firing! Pretty crazy. No where in SD was getting any swell. Pleasantly, surprised ! Let's do it!www.DeathCookieEntertainment.com
Sometimes fear just means that you need to push your shins into the front of your ski boots and fuckin send it!
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08-02-2011, 11:47 AM #42
Nice man, Blacks used to be the only wave that I would surf and now it's the only wave that I don't surf. Love that place.
I found some footage from our trip to W. Samoa. I assume most everyone else's crew is the same way, when the waves are good no one wants to video so these are from the mediocre session during our trip. Plus there was a lot of unusable footage that was taken from the boat that was rock n rolling so it was too shaky to use
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08-03-2011, 12:39 PM #43
Damn, it wont let me embed!
http://www.lol-surf.com/post/8426146913www.DeathCookieEntertainment.com
Sometimes fear just means that you need to push your shins into the front of your ski boots and fuckin send it!
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08-06-2011, 07:31 AM #44Live each season as it passes; breathe the air, drink the drink, taste the fruit, and resign yourself to the influences of each.
Henry David Thoreau
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08-06-2011, 12:37 PM #45
HT, furthest north part of north county was really good this morning. Tropical swell and pretty peaky, saw many barrels but didn't find any myself. I might hit it again tomorrow but I'm not expecting there to be quite as many nugs rolling through
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08-07-2011, 12:30 AM #46Hugh Conway Guest
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Few more pics from where I'd rather be
"shore break", surf, best wave I've ever been to with morning sickness, local scene, hardcore board, taxi
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08-12-2011, 11:35 AM #47
^I need to go to Indo, It's #1 on my list to go but hasn't happened yet.
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08-19-2011, 10:11 AM #48
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08-19-2011, 11:48 AM #49www.DeathCookieEntertainment.com
Sometimes fear just means that you need to push your shins into the front of your ski boots and fuckin send it!
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08-19-2011, 11:56 AM #50
So sick! @2min i get all gitty... I'm still trying to figure out getting barrell. I've gotten to that feathering part, but thats when i get lipped!
www.DeathCookieEntertainment.com
Sometimes fear just means that you need to push your shins into the front of your ski boots and fuckin send it!
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