Thread: Carbon dork

5'10" on a medium, 70mm stem. If I never took the bike on true jump trails I might have gone large with a 50mm stem. I consider myself in-between sizes. I want an 18" seat tube and a 23.4" TT. If I had the large with a 19" seat tube I wouldn't be able to drop my gravity dropper far enough for jumping (I like 6" of drop for that stuff). So it's a touch small for trail riding, but fun as hell too. Especially now that I've gotten the rear shock dialed.

Originally Posted by Lev

Hey, how tall are you carbon dorks riding the HDs and what size frames did you go with? What size would a 5'10" dude be riding? Just curious...

Definitely a medium. I'm 5'10" and the M is spot-on. But, I like shorter cockpits... so robnow has a point. If you like a more stretched-out XC feel, go L. He also has a point about the tall seat tube - it annoyed me on the first ride or two, but now I don't even notice it. Still if I could change anything about the bike, that'd be it - shorten the seat tube.

Originally Posted by robnow

Since I'm writing, anybody have a good suggestion for a November bike trip? Have never ridden in the States and thinking of taking a week during the shoulder season.

That time of year, snow is the limiting factor in the west. Been to Moab late into November and had some amazing rides, but snow is always a possibility.

Back East, you could hit Pisgah near Asheville, or George Washington National Forest in Central VA. Great Fall weather that time of year, but also shitloads of leaves on trails.

What about mojo sizing for a 5'8 chick with a 32" inseam? I ride a medium 6.6 and small Demo. The medium 6.6 is a little big for the way I like to ride now, so I'm thinking a small, but not sure...

Originally Posted by Particle

Still if I could change anything about the bike, that'd be it - shorten the seat tube.

+1, it would be the only thing i would change, oh, and the tire clearance to the seat tube, but I'm on the first gen so they've done that already. I almost wish they had the same TT lengths and sized down, i.e.. XL TT with a L ST, and so on. I've seen one local guy and some of the MTBR builds with ridiculous XL setups(lots of spacers, long stem, tall seat post) and I think there would be a lot of people appreciating a bigger sized Ibis.

Thanks BT-All I can think of is Moab and Arizona. Any Arizona specifics anyone?

Originally Posted by LaBelle23

What about mojo sizing for a 5'8 chick with a 32" inseam? I ride a medium 6.6 and small Demo. The medium 6.6 is a little big for the way I like to ride now, so I'm thinking a small, but not sure...

Regular 6.6 or SS? Both have short TT's but different seat tubes.

I'd think you'll like the short 22.2" TT on the small, but you'll have a ton of seatpost sticking out w/32" inseam and 15" ST. The medium will have plenty of seatpost but will be even longer than the 6.6.

I'm 5'11" on a large HD 140, and it feels none too big with a 90mm stem. But I'm coming off of XC bikes and still dialing the fit.

Particle, Hope you don't mind me coppin yo steeze, but I am about to pull the trigger on one of these in the next few weeks. Black with blue links, too.

Man, everyone is going to be rockin' Tron for Halloween this year

Phall, you going with a brand new frame? I started hunting around for some used stuff. There was a dude in Vegas who was selling a pristine HD for $4600. I gotta sell my Endorphin before I can throw down on anything, but man his bike was super sexy. Probably had over $7000 in it. I'm not opposed to buying used if it's basically brand new. Scares me a little bit with warranty issues, but his bike's components alone would've made it worth it. And I have a feeling that Ibis would probably still help me out if I had a broken triangle on a 2nd hand bike. Could be wishful thinking. Who knows

Heh, no worries P! They are definitely getting more popular around Utah.

Yeah, brand new. I now technically work for a dealer Waiting on some funds, but the full xt trigger will be pulled in the next 7 days or so.

I just read this post, and I have to say the Ibis looks to have a well made frame. I have a 2009 S-works Enduro, and the frame has undulations and bumps in it. They are molding imperfections. Not what one expects in such a pricey bike.

Hey, not sure if it's come up in this thread or not, but is anyone rocking a CC angleset on this bad boy?

I'm on the line with a guy and getting close to closing the deal He's willing to throw in the angleset for an additional $100. I'm a headset JONG and have no idea if I want this. All i know is that it would save me the hassle of trying to buy a new headset as well as an adapter for my 1 1/8 straight steerer.

Thoughts/suggestions? Gracias

I don't know anyone that has one on an HD, but I think it could be sweet if you like an even slacker setup. Just be aware of the nasty 'clacking' noise they are known for making when the bearings shift in the headset cup. Go-Ride has been super gluing them into the cups to prevent it, but then you can't easily replace bearings if needed.

Ya, I read about the clacking noise. Sounds like some people have been able to remedy it. According to the guy I'm buying from, it's a tightening/installation issue, and he says he hasn't had the issue on his ride.

I figure the best case scenario is that I get the bike and I don't have to mess with the headset at all. Just install my fork as is, and go out and enjoy the new technology. I can also play around with the geo and make for some interesting combos if I get bored.

Worst case scenario is that I get the bike, ride it, listen to the clacking and want to put a drill to my head, and eventually swap it out for a non-clacking headset. Sell said clacking headset here or on mtbr and life goes on.

I think i'll give it a shot. Stay tuned for more

Well...

It's looking like I'll be joining the Dork Squad officially next Mon (Fuck ya!). My frame is in transit from Wilson, WY. Bought a "lightly" used M HD that's in "mint" condition. Couldn't be more excited to get on a new frame, especially this one.

I'll be doing a bike swap off my Knolly Endorphin. My main concern at the moment is transferring the drivetrain. Looking at Ibis' site, it appears that they designed the HD for the newer 2x10 systems, or even 1x10 for ultimate simplicity.

Looking at the MTBR page for Ibis, I think folks are having drivetrain issues. I'm currently rocking a Shimano XT crankset 24/34 and a 11-34 casette.

For the dudes running the HD, how was drivetrain set up for you guys? Any suggestions? I do plan on going 2x10 or 1x10 after Xmas, but I need my current setup to last till then.

Thanks. Pics to follow

mine's in the build stage. will be rideable by this weekend, but not fully done done until this winter. Pics once I get phase one dialed

Rocking XT 24/36/Bash x 11-36(10 speed) on first generation. XT front derailleur with screw limiting movement. Works perfect.

I think the only people having issues are:
XX front derailleur can't get low enough on first generation frame?

Originally Posted by Lev

Well...

It's looking like I'll be joining the Dork Squad officially next Mon (Fuck ya!). My frame is in transit from Wilson, WY. Bought a "lightly" used M HD that's in "mint" condition. Couldn't be more excited to get on a new frame, especially this one.

I'll be doing a bike swap off my Knolly Endorphin. My main concern at the moment is transferring the drivetrain. Looking at Ibis' site, it appears that they designed the HD for the newer 2x10 systems, or even 1x10 for ultimate simplicity.

Looking at the MTBR page for Ibis, I think folks are having drivetrain issues. I'm currently rocking a Shimano XT crankset 24/34 and a 11-34 casette.

For the dudes running the HD, how was drivetrain set up for you guys? Any suggestions? I do plan on going 2x10 or 1x10 after Xmas, but I need my current setup to last till then.

Thanks. Pics to follow

Check out this link for FD / drive train compatibility. http://www.ibiscycles.com/support/set-up_guide/

Mine came stock w/ triple cranks which I converted to 2x w/ bashguard. There's mild rub when I'm big-big but good enough for me.

Curious what you paid for your used HD. A friend is thinking about selling his.

Nice Lev! Congrats and welcome to the HD club. I honestly never thought I'd be on an Ibis, but the thing is just so damn good...

Anyway, no problems with drivetrain on my part. I got mine with the X9 3x10 setup, and swapped the big ring for a bash. Also installed an e.thirteen Heim guide. I do get some chain rubbing/rattling when I'm in the little ring in anything but the two largest cogs out back. But I literally only ever use that ring for grannying up the steepest shit possible. If I can ever motivate to actually work on my bike, I think I'll swap to 1x10 next year since the only thing I EVER use the small ring for here is puke hill on the wasatch crest. I do have a 33 tooth front/middle ring, so I spin out on super high speed stuff, but that 33/36 combo can climb almost anything around these parts.

I do know phatfreeheeler has had problems with his 2x10 setup though. Even with an MRP guide he can't keep the chain from falling off to the outside and chewing up his nice XX carbon crankarm... ouch.

Hey Lev, I don't think you'll have any issue with your drivetrain choice. My issues that I mentioned in my PM are, I believe, due to pushing the SRAM XX 2x10 drivetrain outside it's designed envelope. Too much chain extension from the 160mm suspension. The bike pedals well with all kinds of different gearing despite what some people would say. The smaller your ring, the more anti-squat, just like most other designs.

I'm 99% sure I'll end up switching to a 3x10 style crank soon and run it with as close to the 26/39 chainrings as I can. I'm waiting for more options to be easily available. I love my gearing, I just hate dropping the chain off the outside of the big ring. The MRP 2x guide is working smooth and pretty awesome, but it can't do anything to stop the chain hopping off the top of the ring and then you can jam it in the guide. I either need a bash ring or a rear derailleur with so much tension that it can pull chain tension faster then the suspension can rebound.

Thanks for the replies everyone.

Originally Posted by Mr. Toad

Check out this link for FD / drive train compatibility. http://www.ibiscycles.com/support/set-up_guide/

Mine came stock w/ triple cranks which I converted to 2x w/ bashguard. There's mild rub when I'm big-big but good enough for me.

Curious what you paid for your used HD. A friend is thinking about selling his.

I paid $1600. The guy claims he only rode the bike about 10 days last season. He's a shop owner and had a quiver to choose from. Plus, he used a different shock, so the RP23 mine is coming with is brand spanking new.

Originally Posted by Particle

Nice Lev! Congrats and welcome to the HD club. I honestly never thought I'd be on an Ibis, but the thing is just so damn good...

Anyway, no problems with drivetrain on my part. I got mine with the X9 3x10 setup, and swapped the big ring for a bash. Also installed an e.thirteen Heim guide. I do get some chain rubbing/rattling when I'm in the little ring in anything but the two largest cogs out back. But I literally only ever use that ring for grannying up the steepest shit possible. If I can ever motivate to actually work on my bike, I think I'll swap to 1x10 next year since the only thing I EVER use the small ring for here is puke hill on the wasatch crest. I do have a 33 tooth front/middle ring, so I spin out on super high speed stuff, but that 33/36 combo can climb almost anything around these parts.

I do know phatfreeheeler has had problems with his 2x10 setup though. Even with an MRP guide he can't keep the chain from falling off to the outside and chewing up his nice XX carbon crankarm... ouch.

Thanks man. Puke hill would be a tough one without granny. I could probably get up about half way and then walk the rest. Fortunately it's not too long. By the time I left UT in Sept., I could just barely make it to the top of puke hill without having a heart attack. Used my granny in all its glory.

I would love to try a 1 x 10. I still haven't gotten to enjoy the benefits of some of the new 10 speed stuff. Sounds nice having that 36 in the back. The riding out east where I live is super rocky and the climbs often require the granny if it gets to be extended. Not sure if I would be missing the double or not. I have 1 buddy I ride with who is on a single setup here, but he's an animal.

Originally Posted by phatfreeheeler

Hey Lev, I don't think you'll have any issue with your drivetrain choice. My issues that I mentioned in my PM are, I believe, due to pushing the SRAM XX 2x10 drivetrain outside it's designed envelope. Too much chain extension from the 160mm suspension. The bike pedals well with all kinds of different gearing despite what some people would say. The smaller your ring, the more anti-squat, just like most other designs.

I'm 99% sure I'll end up switching to a 3x10 style crank soon and run it with as close to the 26/39 chainrings as I can. I'm waiting for more options to be easily available. I love my gearing, I just hate dropping the chain off the outside of the big ring. The MRP 2x guide is working smooth and pretty awesome, but it can't do anything to stop the chain hopping off the top of the ring and then you can jam it in the guide. I either need a bash ring or a rear derailleur with so much tension that it can pull chain tension faster then the suspension can rebound.

Thanks dude. That sounds frustrating with the chain drop. Hopefully that doesn't happen too often, or at least you've figured out how to avoid it. I wonder if that Shadow XTR derailleur would do the trick for you.

Originally Posted by Lev

Plus, he used a different shock, so the RP23 mine is coming with is brand spanking new.

Thanks dude. That sounds frustrating with the chain drop. Hopefully that doesn't happen too often, or at least you've figured out how to avoid it. I wonder if that Shadow XTR derailleur would do the trick for you.

If it's the high volume can I highly recommend the Fox shim kit.

I wonder about the new Shimano RD's too. Wish I didn't need to change shifters just to test it. SRAM better figure this 2x10 stuff out because they are specing it on tons of bikes in this class.

Originally Posted by phatfreeheeler

If it's the high volume can I highly recommend the Fox shim kit.

Yeah, I think almost everyone would recommend the same. Even my Monarch Plus HV bottoms out a little too easily. According to PUSH the Monarch has a suggested weight of 220 lbs before switching to a regular volume from high volume compared to the RP23s 200 lbs suggested.

If I had a bike as pretty and expensive as the ibis, I would skip the angleset alltogether and go with a works components 1 degree slacker headset. They come in all the right fits (tapered headtube with tapered fork, and all you need is a different crown race for tapered ht with non tapered fork) and are fixed, so you don't have to worry about the creaking popping and grinding the angleset makes. I would also look into offset shock reducers, probably the cheapest way to see if slack is the way to go for you.