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Thread: Cracked Edges

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
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    pa
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    Cracked Edges

    i've got some PR's with cracked edges. There are about 3 cracks along the edge and it is starting to come up a little fron the ski. Is there any way to fix this. I want to keep the water out of the ski before anymore damage occurs and help hold the edges in tact. I've thought about using JB weld or epoxy, but I'm not sure how that will react with the foam or if it will even contact it. Has anyone had any sucessful edge repairs without just replacing the section of edge?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
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    Green River, WY
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    cracked edge? As in steel cracking?! or are you just talking about the plastic top sheet?

    Plastic Top Sheet:
    thats just the way PR's are mane....I wouldn't worry about it - I have several large nicks - i even took a pair of dikes to a few of them. i can see down to the composite material and foam...but thats just it...it's foam and composite...

    As you already know, PR's are not wood core - well atleast the ones you and I have aren't - so if you nick them up and get water in there they won't rot. Now as far as glue and composits go, I'm not completely sure but I really wouldn't worry about it...based on the 35 days my skis have seen, the large nicks and divots in the top sheet have not lead to increased tearing or loss of integrity.

    Maybe some sort of household sealent -- if your really concerned about them call a shop or have your shop call soloman. Make sure it is flexable - anything that gets soild at low temperatures will just crack and fall off..

    Metal Edges Cracked!?!:
    Holy shit dog - never heard of that....


    Ski them into the ground and get some Volkls or K2's :-)....

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
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    Green River, WY
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    .........think APD already answered you...


    http://www.tetongravity.com/forums/s...ad.php?t=20409


    ........

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
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    Hunter Thompson described it as hell.
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    First Q is how old? I'm assuming over a yr, or you would have warantied them. Pain in the ass to do a edge replacement on a cap, but it can be done. Won't last for long if you rail-slide it or romp the shit out of it, but if it is your outside edge, for getting around it should last awhile.




    Quote Originally Posted by powwrangler
    i've got some PR's with cracked edges. There are about 3 cracks along the edge and it is starting to come up a little fron the ski. Is there any way to fix this. I want to keep the water out of the ski before anymore damage occurs and help hold the edges in tact. I've thought about using JB weld or epoxy, but I'm not sure how that will react with the foam or if it will even contact it. Has anyone had any sucessful edge repairs without just replacing the section of edge?
    Skiing, where my mind is even if my body isn't.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    May 2002
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    Tahorado
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    22,239
    Quote Originally Posted by powwrangler
    Has anyone had any sucessful edge repairs without just replacing the section of edge?
    How would you propose to replace a section? Epoxy it in under a chunk of base? The problem with that is anchoring a section effectively to foam. You could request the best adhesive from the company if you don't get warrantied. But a continuous edge is better. I think the minute you try to move it, you run the risk of breaking the bond that binds the layers, meaning it has to be effectively re-adhered.

    edit: Sometimes a ski will last longer if you just ski it with it's imperfections intact. I've had a hard time hanging sections on wood cores. That's why I like the door hinge for brutal edge shots, as ungodly as it seems.
    Last edited by splat; 12-13-2004 at 12:53 AM.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Posts
    5,701
    JB Weld will crack and fail because it has no elasticity.

    Boat epoxy is designed to repair fiberglass boat hulls. It'll bond as well as anything can. Use the slow hardener and add the silica powder so it's as flexible as possible.

    I fixed my delam by dremeling the crack out with the small ball grinder until I got to layers that were well bonded. The reason to dremel it out is to make sure the epoxy can get into all the places that need to be bonded. Then, mask the crack off with masking tape, pour the epoxy in, clamp it, wipe off the excess, and let it dry for a couple days. My repair has lasted for 20 ski days with no sign of re-splitting, though my skis are wood-core which may take better to such a repair.

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